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dieselpower

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Posts posted by dieselpower

  1. Am looking for the most highly recommended 5513 rep insert to go in a new MBW 5513 which is going to replicate an early 1970's 5513. I have an old MBW insert which I had to glue in place (used plumbers jointing compound LS-X, very successful) but want to play around with different bleachings/pearl combinations so the question is simple, who supplies the best aftermarket early 1970's 5513 insert? Is there one that is head over heels the winner or is the jury still out?

  2. Hi to all fellow watch lovers. Nothing to do with watches but I was wondering if any fellow members worked in or had connections to the film industry. I have written a screenplay and would be grateful to anyone who knew about such things (or even didn't!) if they could take the time to read it and give an opinion? Anyway, thanks for even bothering to read this post and all the best.

  3. OK. So. I don't know anything about modding but couldn't resist trying something out. Bezel bleaching. I just got an MBW 5513 and decided to remove the bezel insert (thanks to advices on removal). I had an old MBW insert so I popped the pearl off with my fingernail (easy). Then removed the bezel assembly from the new MBW, amazingly easy, just prized it off with the blade of a knife. Found that the bezel insert was glued in so removed insert (damaged it in the process) with a small screwdriver and then scraped off residual glue. Bleached insert twice in household thick bleach, must admit went a bit too far for my liking but what the hell. Then had to decide on an adhesive for the replacement insert. The fit was very loose and also sat a little low in the bezel itself. Anyway I decided to use a plumbing product called LS-X which is a silicon based sealing compound, readily available here in the UK. It's flexible but quite strong and of course waterproof. Anyway let it set for an hour then popped the bezel back on with my fingers et voila. Watch on a NATO and it looks in my opinion loads better. Here it is (sorry about orientation of photo!):

    post-2563-0-41144000-1346239417_thumb.jp

    • Like 1
  4. @ Freddy333, thanks for that. I have looked at Yuki's bracelet and it is bloody tempting for that price. If it confuses even you with the gen then that's good enough for me. Problem is I wanted to replicate the LALD watch which means I would like the hollow rivets and the Yuki has solid rivets. Damn. Maybe I'll get the Yuki bracelet for the time being then when I see a nice C&I take the plunge and go for one of those. Anyway just to add to the confusion I have now put the watch on a grey/black NATO and I love the look. Oh decisions, decisions... I know what I'll do. Having just completed my tax return I'll open a bottle of wine and think about it. Yes, that's best :g:

  5. I've just been brave enough to drop an old MBW 1665 bezel insert into some bleach. Left it for about 5 mins. (The bleach was the thick type you clean toilets with) the bezel has faded slightly and has taken on a greyish matt appearance. All good, but I think it needs a little longer for the effect I desire. Question is, will it fit into a new MBW 5513 bezel and if so how? Please remember you are dealing with a rank amateur who has only ever changed a watch bracelet and nothing more. Here's a phone photo FWIW:

    post-2563-0-83003500-1345911604_thumb.jp

  6. Bracelets. Thanks for info. already posted. I've looked at the Live and Let Die (LALD) watch and I would like to replicate the watch as received by "Q" before he adapted it for Bond. So, that means folded rivetted is what I'm looking for:

    post-2563-0-73984300-1345892694_thumb.jp

    Does anybody have a clue as to which endlinks these are? I also noticed from photos that the rivets on the LALD watch have little holes in them and all the rivetted bracelets I've seen (gen and rep) have solid rivets, anyone know the explanation?

  7. I recently pulled the trigger on a new MBW 5513. The watch is a starting point. It has been worked on a little. Shaved cg's gaskets greased and extra (missing gasket) added. Lugs drilled to fit gen bars. The transatcion was smooth as silk, watch arrived very quickly. I've asked permission to use the sellers pictures so will add these if he says yes. Anyway, one of my big concerns is the bracelet issue. At the moment I've put the head on an old MBW rivetted bracelet that I had lying around but I think I will try to build the watch in the style of the Roger Moore Live and Let Die 5513. Which I think would have had a 9315 bracelet with 280 or 380 endpieces? You agree? So, does anybody make a decent rep of these bracelets and end pieces? Probably not. Do I have to fork out fortunes for a gen one? To follow that I'm going to get an ingod44 feet first dial. Slow beat eta 2846 then its the bezel and insert question. Is the MBW bezel gen like in construction, if not can one buy a gen bezel and insert and fit onto the MBW case? Questions, questions, questions. Anyway all opinions gratefully received and hopefully pictures to follow soon. Here's a quick wristie taken with my phone (sorry)

    post-2563-0-92633100-1345888941_thumb.jp

  8. OK. To end this thread I've not only decided but I've pulled the trigger. Have gone for an MBW lightly modded 5513 as a starting point. The watch has greased gaskets and re-shaped crown guards, drilled out lugs and 2mm springbars all work done by a respected and admired fellow member. Will post pics and plans for its future when I receive the piece. Thanks all for advices and inputs.... Now that goddam wait aaaaarrrgggghhh.....

  9. With much thanks to Gimme I have now made a study of the ingod44 dial and I am impressed. My previous post with photos was unfair to the dial as has been pointed out there many differences in the gens. So, in the interests of fairness here is another comparison. The same ingod44 dial first then another gen. In this comparison the ingod44 fares much better.

    post-2563-0-70277500-1345522790_thumb.jp

    post-2563-0-78774500-1345522818_thumb.jp

  10. I don't know about the particulars of these exact watches but if they were both on an equal footing accuracy wise and value wise I'd keep the 1680. I just prefer the older style dial. The bling of the newer version is not for me. It's the first thing I look at when I see a person wearing a sub/sd and I'm always tempted to start a conversation about watches if they have the vintage piece. If its the newer piece with the shiny surrounds to the hour markers I just think there's another person who probably knows nothing about watches and went into a shop armed with his bank card. Judgmental? You bet!

  11. @ woof*, it's difficult to tell from your picture, and also I don't want to diss your watch. So lets compare the following, first is ingod44, second is gen dial

    post-2563-0-61379400-1345329948_thumb.jp

    post-2563-0-88479200-1345329972_thumb.jp

    The index is wrong, the lettering of ft is wrong the 6's are wrong the word submariner looks wrong, the list goes on..... Or like I said, am I mad. Also my knowledge of 5513's is scant so I may not even be comparing like with like but it's worth airing I think.

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