dieselpower

Oh God. I'm going to have to build two 'tonas now. One on steel and one on tropical. Me likey.

Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean that they're not watching me...

A D is certainly worth more, but I prefer the E (I have owned a '61 & a '74 V12 &, regardless of their variable values, they are brilliant cars that will never be worth-less ).

Each to his own. I love the E but for me it's the D that floats my boat, especially the XK SS. Don't want to be a total thread hijacker but which did you prefer, the 6 cyl or the V12?

Of course certain classic cars were a brilliant investment - look at a 250 GTO for example. But my point was that they are not all cast iron and bomb proof. I actually think that in the case of this Daytona the investment may hold as it ticks the rarity box big time.

@ freddy333 - yes and E type is an E type, but it's not a D type

Some classic car prices are crazy too. I was at the auction where a McLaren F1 went for over £2m. The car was worth about £1m at the time but some guy really wanted it and was clearly prepared to pay any price. Good luck to the seller I say, but remember. In the 1980's Jaguar E types were going for £75k. How much for a nice one now, and I mean a really really nice one? £75k, not much return on your investment

Thanks for all your help folks. I will try my watchmaker in London.

Thanks for that automatico. Now I have another problem - what size do I order? Jeez life aint easy is it?

Looked at more photos. More round "s". Whats the story?

I was mooching about the web today and saw this picture of a gen 6263:

It strikes me that the "s" in units per hour is rounded and not like the 'flattened' "s" I was expecting. Any experts care to comment?

I will check with my guy on Friday.

Kurt

Thanks Kurt, much appreciated.

I realise this rep is far from fool proof. The watch in question has improved since this photo was taken and now sports a gen folded link bracelet. That coupled with the gen crown and gen T21, rotorless movement and flat case back iron out most of the easy 'tells' I'm sure you'll agree. The 1 1 0 spacing and curved 's' on the bezel are give aways but I think you'd have to be quite knowledgeable to spot that. Of course the sub dial spacing is also a tell but again, you need quite a keen eye (and memory - not having a gen on hand to compare it to) for that to be noticed. Also, and this is the main point, alot of people who know a certain amount about gens have no idea that such reps exist and so they are fooled before they even take a good look because they immediately assume it must be gen!

That was certainly the case with the fellow at the Savoy. I posted the story merely for amusements sake and not a serious analysis of the tells on a rep 6263. Lets face it, we all know what they are.

I recently was helped by fellow members to positively identify a gen bracelet that I have. Only there is a problem.... the bracelet is lacking two of the screw in pins that are used to hold the removable links in place. The bracelet is a 78350. I would like to source a couple of screws but I suspect this is an impossible quest. I hasten to add I have tried some screws from a rep bracelet that I have and they are slightly too thick to insert into the gen links. Anybody have gen spares/know where I could buy some?

Cheers.

I recently was helped by fellow members to positively identify a gen bracelet that I have. Only there is a problem.... the bracelt is lacking two of the screw in pins that are used to hold the removable links in place. The bracelet is a 78350. I would like to source a couple of screws but I suspect this is an impossible quest. I hasten to add I have tried some screws from a rep bracelet that I have and they are slightly too thick to insert into the gen links. Anybody have gen spares/know where I could buy some?

Cheers.

Thanks for that flex. Now I feel a whole lot better. Aaaaaaaarrrrgggghhh

I thought I would share a little story with you. Some may know that I owned an EE6263 which I modded to a fairly good standard then sold to a good friend (outside RWG). He has just told me that he was wearing the watch at a function in the Savoy Hotel London and that a gentleman sat at his table was talking about watches and that they were a great passion of his. He was showing off his new(ish) steel Daytona. My friend could not resist putting the EE to the test. I had assured him that visually all but the most hardened WIS would be fooled but he decided to give it a go. He started chatting to the Daytona man and said that he also had a steel Daytona that he had inherited from his father. The somewhat skeptical fella asked to have a look and then his jaw hit the floor. He asked my friend if he had any idea how much that watch was worth and my friend said "no". It was willed to him by his late father, was never going to be sold and he really didn't care. The man drooled over the watch, held it in his hands, played with the controls etc etc. The watch totally fooled him and my friend was having a little giggle inside all the time.

I myself have not yet tried to palm off a rep as gen but was very tempted recently when I was at a polo match. But that's another story......

The EE:

Here's a photo of the offending article:

Aaaaargh chaps, this waiting is killing me.........

Looks like I've got no choice though

I have now gathered together most of the parts required for a 6263 build. I have a few decisions to make and I will post photos and ponderous questions when I am a little further down the line. However, there is one piece of the jigsaw missing, and its a big one - the dial!

I have been pestering various friends here but am still empty handed. It seems that it is just not possible to buy a decently printed silver non PN dial for an asian 7750 movement. Can this be true? I am now thinking of buying a nasty ($100) 6263 rep and just using the dial for my build - but where to get one?

If anybody has a recommendation, and don't forget I'm only concerned about the dial, the rest of the watch will end up in the bin (probably). So, there's your challenge folks - what would you do?

Don't you have to use a hockey puck somewhere along the line?

I don't know what the protocol is with these watches but the seconds at 6 daytonas are notoriously unreliable. I wouldn't bother with trying to get it fixed or replaced. Do a little research and find a rep that you like and ask Joshua for a swap. Don't bother with the Daytonas until you learn a little bit more. Good luck!

See what you mean about the nasty sevens and the hash marks. Shame.

Would I be right in saying that the steel rep bezel is quite an accurate reproduction of the gen compared to the later black 6263 bezels that are on the market. Just at a quick glance it would appear that the famous 1 1 0 spacing is correct(ish) on your steel bezel and also the gen bezel did not have the 'flattened' "s" in units per hour thus making a watch with a rep steel bezel more accurate to the eye than the 6263 with a flawed black bezel?

Lovely watch. The whole story has me thinking about my current (proposed) 6263 project. I have a cartel 6238 which I intend to cannibalise for the movement. Only trouble is I haven't got a decent non-PN silver dial for the 7750 movement, DW gave me a photo of what he intended to send me and it was very poor quality so he is looking to improve on that. Anyway, seeing these pics is giving me food for thought, if I can not get a decent dial (can anybody help me with this? PM me if so ) I may have to re-think the whole situation, maybe more along these lines. Did DW make more than one albino dial?

I have to agree with JoJo35 when it comes to the satisfaction gained from putting a project together, sourcing the parts and basically creating a watch from bits gleaned here and there. I can not put a price on that. I would also like to point out one (for me) big factor in relation to movements - I have a slow beat eta in my MBW 1665 with the Ubi overlay (and yes, it does not change date properly on a few days but it gets there by about 4am!) a big disappointment is the fact that the date drops down from above the window as opposed to the gen which pops up from the bottom of the window. So, based on that high degree of inaccuracy in this area and the fact that without an overlay or a PT datewheel you would have to use the standard MBW wheel - which is a load of pants - I would have to opt for the gen movement with its correct wheel. I think the cost is wholly justified and the net result would be something quite special. Sod the finances, if its a keeper (and it should be!) then the money aspect deminishes with each passing day. So why then have I not put a gen movement in my MBW? Many reasons really, my case is not exactly as I would wish, I am currently putting together a 6263 and it's difficult to justify spending money on watches and parts when my wife and I have our second child due in 2 weeks time and I cannot get out of my head the fact that I could have picked up any old Datejust for about £400 when I worked in a watch dealers shop in London and now the prices I see seem silly.

So, buy a gen movement. Maybe spread the cost of other parts over time for comforts sake but do get the gen movement. It will feel gen, it will look gen and if you change your mind or decide to sell the piece you should not loose a penny.

Whatever you decide do keep us posted and I wish you well with the project.

Lovely watch, lovely story and Ubi? Lovely guy, it's him and his like that make RWG a privilege to be a part of.