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Posts posted by sneed12
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Correct me if I'm wrong but the 6 shouldnt be open. It should be fully closed like on your gmt ii ceramic
There are 1675s with open 6/9 with and without flattop 3's, and both white and silver datewheels. Depends on what got replaced when during which service in what RSC.
I picked this datewheel because I like it. Same reason the dial has superlume, even though it's marked T<25 and "shouldn't" glow anymore (a few of the earliest Luminova dials had the Swiss T marking).
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how was the alignement of the DW with the ETA movement?
Fine with a datewheel overlay, just like every other Rolex rep
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That first one needs a new date wheel...
What's wrong with it?
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Just pics--I had an hour to kill between conference calls today
And one of a Sub, just for grins
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Sure. I've built two and I know others have as well.I wonder if you could put an original dial on this beauty. Great watch enjoy it.
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Sneed do you have a link to your thread?
Did you try doing a search for "sneed12" and "gmt"?
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does anybody have some feedback from the CHS from perfectclones? It sells for 388 and looks great, and of course the usual questions does it take any Gen parts (crystal, crown , bezel, insert etc....) ?
Literally just by looking at it, you can tell that the date is too far to the right. That means the dial and crystal are unusable for a decent build. I bought this watch and tore it down for parts because I wanted the CHS movement and hands.
There isn't a good GMT Master II 16710 rep out of the box. There are at least two (mine and BK's) build threads about how to build a nice one.
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It's easy to get a reply:
BK's "Transformer".......but it's out of stock.
Nope.
The Transformer was built on the Noob GMT case. You want a Noob explorer II case. It will take a gen style bezel assembly.
Failing that the new superlumed Explorer II case is decent.
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I started the thread so i can know what to do IF NEEDED.
"I'm in an unhappy marriage, and we're going to counseling, but I just want to start this thread to learn what is the best way to get rid of the body IF NEEDED."
That's a cop out and you know it. The fact that you're asking means you're thinking about doing it.
I'm in the US; I'll make the same offer as Andy: send it to me and if it's something simple I'll tell you what it was and try to sort it for you.
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Long enough that it unscrews properly, short enough that it will screw down properly without stopping the movement.
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Only way to know for sure is to try and fit one.
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Do not remove the bezel ring if all you want to do is change the insert. Not worth the risk.
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I'd take a 5514.
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Looks bloody good S
is the crystal the same part no as the sub ?
Yeah
With that particular version of CHS mvt. does the date work of the hour hand or the GMT hand??
Off the GMT hand
are you able to get the bezel numbers any thicker, I think that's the only tell left on this, apart from that its perfect
No, unfortunately, this bezel insert is a totally different shape than all of the other rep bezel inserts I have ever seen. It has a really deep "lip" that fits down into the bezel and any rep bezel insert sits way too high in this bezel assembly.
On the other hand, I think that you could replace it with a gen bezel assembly entirely.
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This is my GMT IIc. I've been working on getting this model right essentially since I started doing mods... over the years I've bought maybe a dozen different ones, 2 or 3 to keep and the rest to tear down for parts.
Recently I purchased the new superlumed GMT IIc. I was impressed with the case (rehaut engraving is excellent!) and dial but the hands, as some others have noticed, are quite green. It was no problem for me as I was planning to install the guts from the CHS GMT IIc that came out a while ago. I used the CHS movement and hands (superlumed by Ruprekt), the superlumed dial, and a BK DWO for the build. I painted the bezel with platinum paint, and then it was time to try and figure out how to use a gen crystal with it.
When I tore down the new case I was pleasantly surprised to find that the bezel construction is gen-style, that is, there is a retaining ring that presses down over the crystal and the bezel snaps on to that. Unfortunately, the retaining ring is slightly oversized, meaning that gen parts were difficult to fit--the bezel literally falls off if you install a gen crystal and gasket (I tried). The rep gasket is much thicker and holds the bezel on, but the opening is too large to hold a gen crystal (it falls out) since the rep crystal doesn't have a step at the edge.
After playing with it for a while, I had the idea of turning the rep gasket over (upside down). This seems to have done the trick, although I still worry a tiny bit about the crystal falling out--I will probably take it apart and use some UV glue to make sure it all stays put. So this watch now has a gen Rolex crystal with AR'ed cyclops installed.
Pics:
bezel teardown (sorry, I didn't take the actual bezel assembly itself apart, I'd already painted and glued the insert before remembering to start taking pics)
Gen crystal installed with gen gasket (you can see that it fits, but it WILL NOT hold the bezel retaining ring on, it just falls off b/c the ID is too large)
wonderful black hole effect
Finished product after playing with it
Few shots of the whole box--it's almost done now, all that's left (I think) is to source and install a gen dial in the white explorer II. Both the super-hulk and the GMT IIc now have gen crystals with AR'ed cyclops installed, and if you look you can see the effect even in th
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No that won't help, the baseplate is different, that's what affects the stem position
You can swap everything from the bottom half of a 2846 to a 2824 baseplate. Absolutely everything.
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alternatively you can transplant the 2846 guts into a 2824. i was comparing them, its the escape wheel , and fork, and probably the gear train that need moving. the rest can stay.
Balance wheel, too, no?
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In that case, since you say you don't have the insert installed, the bezel ring must be rubbing on the top of the case. That is literally the only thing it could possibly be touching.
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Start from basics: if you install the bezel onto the retaining ring when both are off the watch, will it turn?
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If the retaining ring is pushed too far down, the bezel will not turn. Make sure you have the proper o-ring underneath it. If necessary, you can raise it up a razor blade's width.
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The 2836 is too thick for the Sean case, you need a 2824 or 2892 to line up the stem.
And the 2824 just barely works. 2892 is really a better bet, the extra 0.3mm makes a big difference. Remember you have to leave a bit of space under the dial for the DWO.
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There isn't a BK for Omega precisely because Omega parts can be purchased and they fit ETA movements. People pretty much just go franken. Why do anything else?
A franken PO and a BK Submariner will be priced very similarly.
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This is a gaytona.
1675 Hand Rage
in The Rolex Area
Posted
This isn't really true. Take a look at one sometime. It's a 2813 with an additional wheel on top just like a 2893 or GMT modded 2836 is.
The biggest difference is that due to the way the calendar plate on the 2813 is designed, the new GMT wheel fits underneath it. On the modded 2836 the GMT wheel is held down by the dial and a bent washer. (That sounds janky, but on the other hand the hour wheel of a factory ETA 2824 is held down the same way).