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sneed12

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Posts posted by sneed12

  1. Nice insert choice with some natural age, is the insert sloping up a little steep?

    Probably. It was completely flat--seriously, I was using it as a spacer in my crystal press-- so I just bent it back by hand. I will try to tweak it some more, there's a bit too much of a gap between the inside of the insert and the outside of the crystal.

    Also, which date wheel did you use - is it white with open 6 and 9 and flat 3 from the original watch or an upgrade?

    It's the one that came with the watch. I contacted trevor to see if I could buy some more as parts, but he seems to think I want 3 more watches...

  2. When you have done the mod on the jumping 24h hand will it also stop it from hand winding the watch

    That is not true. If the watch is not hand winding, it means that the yoke spring in the keyless works was not reset properly. It's easy to fix, but you have to take the hands and dial off.

  3. Could be a guy like you out there who noticed but I doubt it.

    Here's my point: you've been here a whole two months, I don't know your level of watch knowledge but judging by some of the threads you've posted it's pretty typical for a well-read noob (like I was, not too long ago).

    If people know you as a "watch guy" and you wear reps, then people have probably noticed your reps. I'm careful NOT to be known as a "watch guy" in real life. I don't want people checking out my wrist.

    By the way you were going downtown on a train, NYC or another major city no doubt. If I did that it would be a hell of a lot more likely. You said yourself first time you spotted one in how long working in a high density area?

    I've taken the train less than 20% of the days I've worked, and tomorrow is 5 months on the job. Not that long. Also, I don't typically do more than glance at other peoples' watches unless they catch my eye.

    I should amend my statement, actually--this is the first time that I've identified a rep on someone's wrist, not counting times when people have said "hey check out my watch." A number of people have said "Hey, you're wearing a Rolex, so am I" and shown me a $50 21j Noobmariner.

    (Others have shown me a gen 1675 and a gen 1665 great white, so there is a lot of variability there)

  4. A point on the movements you are all discussing. The hacking lever for a 2836/ 2824 can be retro fitted to a 2846.

    I have done this.

    But the date wheels are not compatible between 2824 and 2846 you would need a DW from a 2836 due to the height as both the 36 and 46 were destined as day date movements an have the teeth of the DWs are set lower than the printed area of the DW.

    Wondering if it would be possible to just attach the current datewheel (as an overlay) to the stock 2836/2846 datewheel. Probably would have to grind the teeth off first, and I'm too chicken to ruin one that way...

  5. I've said it many times on here but if they made a clone movement rep withhe correct crown position and date position that didn't kill itself the. I would pay a good amount for that.

    And if they made a Honda that looks and drives like a Ferrari people would buy that too.

    "Cloning" a movement is not simple at all. Look at all the struggles that the factories have gone through with the SA3135 (kudos to them for trying though). Now imagine a rep factory deciding to try and clone a DD chronograph module. Those things are complicated enough that most watchmakers won't service them, how is a rep factory going to build one, and why would they bother when the 7750-based reps sell already?

  6. Put in the Clark's crystal after the kids went to sleep. New crystal eliminated the distortion problem.

    0afe2e94.jpg

    Also, bleached and fitted the insert. I'm really happy with the way it came out, and I'm sort of pleased that it's beat up because I've been using it, rather than shaking it in a bag of rocks!

    e8a2bbbc.jpg

    Wristie (also notice my brand-new floors)

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    I think the only mod remaining is to remove some meat from the bottom of the CGs, the profile is all wrong. But honestly that's low priority for me. Who looks at the back of the watch anyway?

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  7. The new 1675 model has been getting a fair bit of press. I ordered one a while ago, and apparently it arrived last week while my regular postman was on holiday. The temporary guy "forgot" to bother to deliver it to me. When my regular guy came back from his vacation he made a special trip out with. Also, as it turns out, Joe Biden was having a fundraiser in my building today, so the Secret Service shut down the street and we were told that we could work from home if we wanted to. So, of course, I took an hour to play with my new watch...

    eb342300.jpg

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    Standard stuff, ETA clone, "superlume" which is much better than rep lume used to be but still not as good as H-factory or WM9 lume. Of course, being me, I had to tear it apart...

    Inside is a standard, clean-looking ETA clone 2836...

    cd8ed796.jpg

    One of the best parts on this, actually, is the white datewheel overlay with open 6/9. Does not have the left-justified problem that the PT vintage silver overlay has.

    51105fcb.jpg

    I'm going to swap the clone 2836 for a Swiss 2846. In order to do this, I have to remove the parts from the 2836 that drive the GMT hand and swap them to the other movement. I am also going to leave out the gear that allows the GMT wheel to be independently adjusted; the gen 1675 does not have an independently adjustable GMT hand.

    3d9afd10.jpg

    I don't have any formal watch training so I don't know the names for all of this stuff, but you remove the top cover plate and the hour hand wheel first (GMT wheel on left sits on top of the cover plate so it just lifts off)

    41e16afd.jpg

    Then you remove the date mechanism stuff

    31ebb0e2.jpg

    Now I will just install the pile of parts on the left onto the movement on the right. You need to swap the date jumper spring cover plate (which has a bit of a slot cut into it to clear the new teeth on the other side of the calendar wheel gear) as well as the calendar wheel gear. If you want to have the independently adjustable hour hand you also need to move the small gear that's installed where the date flipper paddle would usually go, I am going to leave it since I don't want that feature on the 2846.

    ad122958.jpg

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    Install the dial and hands:

    42295d9f.jpg

    recase the movement:

    86f43e53.jpg

    and now I have a Swiss ETA slow-beat 1675 with the "correct" hand stack (the gens of this era have the GMT hand on the bottom) rep.

    I also dug around in my parts box and found an old pepsi insert that I have been using to protect bezels from crystal press dies, so it's a bit scratched up and flattened. I've bent it back into shape, and I'll try fading it a bit to give the watch a bit of a worn look.

    64bbd79d.jpg

    I have a clark's crystal that I will install next, the distortion of the rep crystal is quite bad, but I ran out of time today. Sorry for the crappy iPhone pics, btw, we're having new floors installed and a bunch of my stuff including my camera and tripod is packed up.

  8. Very nice! Something done to the pearl? It glows too bright to be an original rep pearl.

    Pearl relumed by vac, installed in a bezel from WSO. In fact, in the pictures here the pearl hole is a hair too big and the pearl isn't quite straight/flush. I ordered a replacement from WSO to try and mount the pearl a second time, came out much better. I'll post a pic of the new insert when I get around to it.

  9. If you don't have the patience to wait more than a few hours for a response to your thread, the rep game is probably not for you.

    I doubt anyone will respond to your thread unless you provide a link to the watch in question.

    Finally, a cheap rep is a cheap rep... nothing wrong with that, but it is what it is. You can buy a $30 rep, a $300 rep, a $600 franken or a $3000 gen, all of them offer a different value-for-the-money proposition. It's up to you what you want and how much you're willing to pay for.

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