sneed12

"This is a good idea...anything that keeps people from clipping feet on a gen dial is a good thing"

+1

Is no one listening? It is not possible to install a gen Rolex 3135 dial on an ETA 28xx movement without clipping at least one of the feet. 

This device is designed to let people install ETA feet on Rolex dials that have had their feet clipped, not to prevent people from clipping the feet off of gen dials.

This is a good idea...anything that keeps people from clipping feet on a gen dial is a good thing.

This is for the other way around, you clip the gen dial feet and then install ETA feet on it

 Kinda surprised there aren't ETA clones with Rollie dial holes yet---

You can't, one of the dial feet goes through the balance wheel

you come up with the weirdest questions

Is the caseback closed?

Why not just take a green handed gmt and mod it? the new blue gmt is the same case as the green one isnt it? Its not hard to paint the gmt hand but the problem would be to paint the bezel well so that it woudnt look like it wasnt painted. Any thoughts on that?

The dial text is also a different color.

http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/135979-gen-polar-dial-explorer-build/

same procedure

 A couple other comments: I tried switching the assembly out from a noob sub I have but the gears didn't mesh. I'm guessing because my TC has an ETA and the noob has Asian clone. It's really annoying that they cloned movements and didn't go 1 to 1.

I've never had a problem assembling a clone rotor to an ETA movement or vice versa. Based on the other information you supplied I'm guessing there's something else wrong with yours.

Also the OD of the rehaut. You can make a gen-spec T21 fit a DW case but it requires sanding/fitting the crystal.

Any crystal with 25-295 will fit. The C2 is the gasket number, not part of the crystal number, but sometimes you see them written together.

Heck, when you said pricey I thought you meant something stupid like $100 a pop. At $25 I'm definitely in for at least two.

2824's don't have the same jumping click thing that 2836s have. The date flipper just turns without jumping, so the click is provided by the date disc teeth and the jumper spring. Small variations of the teeth (remember there are 31 of them) could result in the date flipping at slightly different times every day.

The same does not apply to 2836s.

THIS is still the only decent GMTIIc replica ever produced.

Definitely the best out-of-the-box GMT IIc, but not the best one if you plan to mod it.

3 dial lock...?

There are two dial foot clamps, and two movement clamp screws. I don't think there are three of anything...

Rubber ball is only good for opening but you can not torque the back down properly.

False.

I have done a number of dives wearing watches that were closed with rubber balls.

They are not the ideal or the best tool, and I recommend using a proper caseback wrench if you have one, but torque is torque and if the rubber ball is all you have and you're careful, you can seal a watch to be water-resistant just fine.

For most reps, TC tube is actually a better choice (particularly the BP case, sorry I haven't had a chance to respond to your PM). The TC tube is flat, so no countersinking is required. A gen or gen-spec tube requires lots of drilling.

The BP bezel assembly is a monstrosity.

There is no click sprint on the BP sub, you are missing the four spring loaded parts which create the click sound, and prevent from turning clockwise.

 

So, you need 4 x prongs, and 4 x matching tiny springs.

There's actually 4x identical springs, 3x little mushroom head pins and one different one that produces the click. If you look closely at the holes you see that the one by 7-8 o'clock is a different shape than the other 4.

@ the OP: you need to replace these parts before your bezel will work. You can get away with leaving out 1 or 2 of the mushroom pins, but you need the click one.

I havent tried to put the bezel on the retaining ring yet, but it feels a very tight fit.

 

Is there something im missing?

DO NOT PRESS THE BEZEL OVER THE RETAINING RING. YOU WILL DESTROY IT.

Unlike every other bezel assembly in existence, the BP retaining ring is designed to be installed over the bezel. See how the retaining ring has a step in it? The top, fatter part is what holds the bezel down. You cannot press the bezel down over it and you will break it if you try (ask me how I know).

You need to put the bezel on the case, then press the retaining ring down. It's a giant pain in the ass. I hate the BP construction.

This is what I've been doing- sand the OD of the crystal retaining ring or the ID of the bezel, or both. I've done this on the aftermarket 16610 bezel assemblies also. I use a 320 or 400 grit sandpaper (wet/dry) and do it by hand- nice and slow w/ some test fitting along the way. It usually doesn't take too long- 30 minutes to an hour, maybe.

I do this too, but I spin it using a drill, takes 5 minutes I've done a few by hand, and this way is better!

So... you took it apart, and it came apart, and that is somehow a "serious problem"? Having the bezel assembly come off when you slide a knife under it and pry it up is not a "problem" it's what is supposed to happen.

Yeah...that must be a different problem. I could put my bezel ring on without the washer and it would snap on fine, but it would just spin freely.

I've noticed the retaining rings from Gary are sort of all over the place. I usually just use the bezel ring and modify the stock retaining ring to fit the Clark bezel.

Hey sneed12: The TC movement retaining ring has two set screws that need to be loosened to rotate to a half-moon notch so the whole movement assembly can be

removed. When I did that, and removed the movement,  the ring separated from the movement assembly. I put it back on, but the process of rotating it back into place creates the 

problem of the dial face rotating. I figured I was doing it wrong, so I was hoping that someone had taken the time to create a tutorial on doing it properly.

As Freddy said, the movement ring (and movement) have only one possible orientation: the stem hole has to be lined up at 3, and the movement ring needs to be installed on the movement such that the stem goes through the cutout. There is no indexing involved.

It sounds like your gen dial, which doesn't have feet, is rotating on your movement. This is a different problem. Your hands and dial need to come off, and the dial needs to be remounted. This is why I use glue rather than dial dots on dials with no feet, to prevent this sort of problem.

The movement holder should hold the movement tightly enough that no indexing is needed. I don't understand what you are asking.

There are a million tutorials on how to recase a movement.

I've had two CHS ETA movements running without problems all day every day for well over a year.

What is a "BP GMT II"?

Can you post a pic of that base watch?

By-Tor,

the "BP" GMT IIc is the only GMT IIc case that I know of which has the gen-style bezel construction. I've used it to build a couple of GMT IIc frankens. Here's a pic of the case stripped down:

The search function seems to be down, but I'll try again a bit later and if I can find some links to threads I've posted showing more pics of that case / details of the builds.

It's rep AR, not that gen AR can't be scratched or removed.  

Uh... gen AR most certainly can be scratched and removed.

Gen dials have different construction--the markers aren't "cups" like a rep, they're "rings." The lume is painted right on the dial, it's much harder for it to come off.