sneed12

Yes. The 1675 has the GMT hand on the bottom. The 16700 and later GMT models change the hand stack.

Yes that Tudor sale was one hell of a Pita for all concerned I think  

 

Only because the buyer threw a huge crybaby hissy fit. Money talks, [censored] walks. I would have tried to handle that differently, but in the end the guy who paid got what he paid for.

But they're not, and it gets old seeing people in sales threads tell noobs (incorrectly) that they are.

I know we have a more relaxed atmosphere here than other forums but we still have a fairly busy M2M Sales section, do we have any Mods checking the sales listings here as they do on other boards? I'm sure we do, I'm just not sure who to contact as and when any issues arise?

Uhh...TwoTone? He's an admin, and he wrote the sales rules posts... why wouldn't you start there?

 When it comes to the movt, sure its modded to run the sec@6 which has a transfer plate and some extra gears to make it transfer the power from 9 to 6.

What are you talking about? A 3717 runs the standard ETA 7750 6-9-12 configuration.

If it's a genenstein with full gen everything then it has a gen IWC 79320 in it. The 79320 doesn't have or use a transfer plate.

It does have all of the IWC value-adds: custom balance wheel, mainspring, etc. The do further finishing to the mainplates. They use a weaker mainspring because they claim that their modifications mean that less power is needed to drive the geartrain. All that stuff.

Im not sure but most likely no. I would think like rolex if they found non gen parts they wouldnt work on it 

From the OP's description, there are no non-gen parts. It's a genenstein with gen everything.

 The movements are mostly chinese 2824-2 automatic movements,

The 2836 is a bit more common in reps

FxrAndy -- Yeah, but i think this may be fixable whenever i have the movement serviced in the future.  

Doesn't look like it, honestly. The dial looks centered well in the case, might be tough to move it up. Still, barely noticeable, and nice watch.

its not about the date changing at midnight, its the fact the numbers will be upside down at the 9 o'clock position when you rotate the dial...think about it, the date at 3 o'clock is the correct way up....put that same date the opposite side and its upside down...for a date at 9, you just need a new date wheel with the numbers reversed called a date at 9 wheel...

Nope.

As others have pointed out, this is not true. When you rotate the whole movement, the date stays right side up if you still display the date on the right-hand side.

Here's a 2836 in the regular orientation

and rotated 180 degrees

As you can see, the dates are still right-side-up on the right side of the movement.

The only way you need a date at 9 datewheel is if you leave the movement the way it is, and have the actual date display on the left side (like on the Tag Aquaracer).

Now, as someone pointed out, the one issue is that the date disc has 31 (an odd number) of dates, so exactly across from the stem position is halfway between two dates. If you just turn the dial around, the dates won't be aligned. You can usually correct for this by modifying the date jumper spring, but with a Rolex rep the even easier solution is to remove and remount the datewheel overlay.

No, Im not nuts, but what is nuts is someone having to wait a year for their second package of a two package purchase of parts which are available.

He says he only paid a few months ago

Just to make it more clear. You're right, but its not one year of waiting. Its more like one year trying to find a way to make it possible. To be reasonable, its more like 2 months trying to receive the rest of the parts.

Considering the fact that TC is traveling, and there have apparently been two attempts to ship this guy his watch, and two months seems pretty normal.

I have a SeaDweller with its crown on the right. It has an eta 2836.

Is it possible to rotate the face in the case 180deg to change it into a left crown?

With an ETA 28xx... yes. The dial feet are 180 degrees apart, so you can literally just remove the hands and dial and turn it around the other way.

 

I know I will have to adjust hands as well...

Will I have to modify the case or face at all?

 

No, you shouldn't have to.

Also, I have never removed crystal before. Is it safe to push out push in? Will it seal sufficiently?

Thanks.

Depends on the case construction and how good of a job you do, but probably.

Why switch it?

Because i can, and wish to have something more reliable than a chinese movement in it.

So can SOMEONE please give me some advice, instead of just saying YES or NO?!

You're going to get far here with that friendly attitude. Here's some advice: stop expecting others to give you something just because you demand it.

There's tons of information here on the forums. To be quite frank, asking if a 6497 will swap with a 2824 is a stupid question. Pretty much your only option when swapping out a 2824 is another 2824.

that new tudor blue is looking great! wheres the rep already?

We're still waiting on the rep of the black one...

In your case, it is somewhat worrying to say the least, and I would of though TC would of been right onto you after I emailed him pointing him to this here thread, but alas, not.  If anyone has Thomas's phone number, PM it to the OP please, this needs sorting out asap.

Are you nuts? Crap like this is why so many dealers (and modders) crash and burn. 

From now on when I get PMs asking if I'll work on watches for money, I'm going to point people at this thread. It so perfectly explains why I don't usually bother.

 Are you crazy?

No. Are you? You seem to be contradicting yourself a lot.

But you said (three posts above)

I've been sent email everyday without any reply.

But you said

how can you say the complicated part of the deal is "not your fault" when you specifically asked him to ship to you in a complicated way?

Wow xenophobia here? Whats the big deal?

"Xenophobia"? WTF are you talking about?

You split your time between two different countries. I used to as well. I know for a fact that sometimes it's a pain in the ass to get your mail when you do that. I'd be in Switzerland for a month, and when I came back I'd have a slip saying I had a registered package the day after I left, but the post office only holds for 14 days so it got sent back. When you live between two different countries that adds even more complexity.

I've never bought anything from TC. From what people have said he seems to be a stand-up guy. Regardless, the facts are that you 1) asked for something quite complicated 2) it's clear he tried to accomodate you and 3) your freaking out isn't going to make anything get resolved any faster. If TC decided to rip you off emailing him every day isn't going to fix it. If TC just can't get to his email because he's travelling in China emailing him every day isn't going to fix it. If TC is just buried under a huge mountain of emails emailing him every day isn't going to fix it.

Anyone know where to get hold of, and if it fits, a ETA Swiss 6497?

Uh... no, a 6497 will not swap with a 2824. Not even a little bit.

  I don't know alot about the mechanics of the movements, but i feel that i need to upgrade it so something better, in the pricerange of maybe 150 - 200 USD 

...?

Why?

Whoa!! First off the DW Daytona doesn't take a Swiss ETA 7750. 

Yeah, it does. DW doesn't use the 7753. He uses a 7750 with a custom transfer plate on top.

I am by no means an expert on the 7750 but I believe they are dimensionally identical. DW removes the winding bridge and the counterweight, in order to simulate a hand-wound movement, right? 

No, just the rotor itself. Bridge stays on.

I asked him to split the watch in two packages to avoid customs risk, and he said "ok, lets do this". In the first attempt, the packages was lost within the USA. in the second try, I've receive my first package (with one bracelet, watch case and crystal). The second package has arrived almost 1 month ago. The bad news is that I recieved the same parts that I already had (bracelet and watch case).

Just to make it more clear. You're right, but its not one year of waiting. Its more like one year trying to find a way to make it possible. To be reasonable, its more like 2 months trying to receive the rest of the parts.

Well, so he live in China? I've been sent email everyday without any reply. He knows that I have a problem that need attention. I really dont know whats going on.

Maybe you should try emailing him every 10 minutes 

You've said (on another forum) that you 1) have a very complicated deal 2) have received parts, just not the correct ones 3) since you actually paid and had parts shipped and whatnot, it's only been a few months.

Yes, it's annoying that your issue has not been resolved yet. Bugging the hell out of TC probably isn't going to solve it any faster. Why don't you try calming down and waiting patiently?

I wish I had your luck. I've yet to have GS Hypo cement hold anything. I went to UV cement for crystals because they fell out with GS. 

Weird. I must be using a lot more than you guys or something.

Pretty darn good for a rep, miles better than what we used to call "rep lume" but still nothing like the gen.

After seeing a gen bezel insert in person:

http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/157621-gen-bezel-insert-photos-comparison-to-modded-rep-part/

The GS hypo cement will not hold it.

???

GS hypo cement will hold just fine...

DO NOT use acetone!!!! 

?

I wash crystals with acetone all the time. It's perfectly safe to use with gold plating as well. As long as you don't get it on anything painted you should be fine.

If I understand it correctly, you just need to replace the broken ceramic INSERT, right? 

This! DO NOT TRY TO PRY OFF THE BEZEL the way MD2020 suggests... the case you have is almost certainly not gen-style construction (if it is, MD2020's suggestion is the right way to go). The bezels are nearly impossible to get off of most Sub-C cases without bending.

Since your insert is broken already anyway, just go after it with a screwdriver and remove it in chunks. Use a q-tip and some acetone to clean out the bezel ring, then put in the new bezel. I prefer GS hypo cement over gorilla glue but whatever glue is fine.

Define "good one"--are you looking for a good rep or something gen-like?