sneed12

Ha, I'm a moron! I'll go fix it.

Now listed FS, if anyone is interested.

Ok, then good. The B23 is based on the ETA 7753.

For example, one could pick up a Seiko Monster or equivalent Orient Diver for around $150 and know 100% that the watch would function FLAWLESSLY and be FULLY water-resistant to its 200m claim.

Really? You've never seen a flooded Seiko or Orient diver?

What I would know 100% is that Seiko would replace my watch if it failed at depth. I would be reasonably confident that if I were to grab a 007 or Mako out of the dealer display, strap it to my wrist and dive with it, that it would be ok--but not 100%.

Gen rolexes flood, as do gen seikos. A good rep can be made just as waterproof, you just don't get a warranty.

Is it (the gen) 7750 powered, or the new B01 caliber? If it's the new in-house movement, it probably has a display back and the rep will be wrong.

Nice looking watch.

I work downtown, so I get on the train with a bunch of guys in suits just like me most days, coming home.

Guy standing next to me, lawyer with a big firm, was chatting with another lawyer about a client (and kept using the client's name, which is a big no-no). He was holding the bar in front of me with his left hand so I got a good look at his watch.

21j, faux-chronos Navitimer in two tone on a bracelet.

First time I've ever identified a rep on someone's wrist

Yeah, as much as I like them, I can't wear a 48mm case. It looks like I strapped a hockey puck to my wrist. Those things are massive.

Cool catch!

The lume is quite good for a rep, by 2010 standards... but not as good as my H-factory reps, or the factory superlume on the new Rolex SeaDweller or Explorer II.

I guess we're getting spoiled. I think I'll live with it, and the watch is really fantastic in every other way. Looks great, much more comfortable than I would have expected.

The divemaster said everyone needs a computer to dive.

That divemaster needs a kick in the nuts.

I've been diving for years, never owned a computer. Tables and a watch work just fine. If I were a serious/professional diver I'd buy a computer, but as it is diving for me is just for fun and using a watch and a table is part of the fun for me.

Buyer's name was watch4king. I haven't heard from him since yesterday, he said he'd return the item but hasn't said anything since. As soon as I have it back in my hands I'll refund his money.

I sold a watch to a new member recently.

He received it and claimed it was not as described. The "caseback was loose" (which it may well have been, I open all of the watches I sell to make sure everything looks ok on the inside after once having a movement clamp come loose and stop the balance wheel--if so, that's on me and I'm sorry) and the "date doesn't work." OK. It's worked fine for me for more than a year, but maybe it broke during shipping or something.

Despite the fact that I always write "no returns or refunds" I have only once refused to take an item back (the guy said, literally, that in person it wasn't as shiny as it looked in the pictures). I told him to send it back to me and I'd give him a refund if he wasn't happy with it.

Instead, he wants me to "rebuy" the watch from him--send a payment for the amount that the watch sold for. I told him no and he filed a dispute.

Folks, there's a number of reasons why filing a dispute should be a last resort.

First, we as a community need to keep as low a profile as possible. Getting paypal involved is not "low profile."

Second, it won't make things any different. I will not refund the money until I have my watch back--if I send a refund while the buyer still has the watch, what's to prevent him from just keeping it? The buyer is protected by Paypal--if the buyer returns the watch, and doesn't get a refund, THEN file a dispute. Prove to paypal that you shipped the watch back (you kept the receipt and got tracking) and they will force the refund to occur. (I explained all of this to the guy, of course, and he chose to file a dispute anyway).

This is my first paypal dispute as a seller, and now I know this additional piece of information: the only options I have to respond to the dispute are to refund the money right away (which I won't do) or deny it (which leaves us back at square one). So filing a dispute doesn't even do any good.

And of course, now my Paypal account is frozen. I can't do anything with it. Specifically, if someone else needs a refund, I can't process it until the hold is taken off. So thanks a lot, now you've made everyone else's life more complicated as well.

Paypal disputes are fine, as a last resort. But please, try to work things out (with the seller, and then get the mods involved) BEFORE involving Paypal. It's common courtesy, it's the way we try to do things here in our community, and (as I've just discovered) involving Paypal doesn't even help.

Serti dial is what I would do.

I have a spare jubilee, but I wonder if it won't have the same problem you're having now. What clasp are you trying to install?

If you're not sure if it's worth $2500, why are you paying $2500?

Great post, but I do want to say:

The majority of dive watches choose an outer unidirectional bezel to mark dive periods. AP went with an inner rotating bezel, which not only keeps the shapely octagonal case intact but also provides a more secure solution. You don’t want an accident or miscalculation when you’re a long way from a breath of fresh air.

This is... wishful thinking. AP chose the inner bezel to keep the distinctive look of their case. Bezels which can be operated underwater are far, far more useful. I always set the bezel after I'm in the water (usually after I've jumped in, while I'm waiting for the rest of the dive group to get out of the boat).

I have a v3 diver and a new 2846 on the way, we'll see how that goes.

I very much doubt that you actually scratched the sapphire of the crystal (it's possible, but quite hard to do). Probably just scratched the outer AR coating. Go after it with the polishing cloth of your choice (Cape Cod or whatever) or a felt buffing wheel and the rub the rest of the coating off. It's the wrong color anyway.

How incorrect is the small numerals original bezel insert? I kind of like the small numbers actually...

How do the dates look?

By the way, these reps this accurate is a fairly recent thing. We used to have to spend tons more and lots more time modding to get them this good. You jumped into this world at a great time.

It's crazy how much has changed even just in the couple of years I've been here.

Look at the coin edge on the bezel. 42mm has the coin edge, 45mm has scalloped.

The 42 and 45 both use the same movement, date window is the same distance from the center of the dial, but since the 45mm dial is bigger it's further to the left of the line you drew.

And there's like a million pics of the 5th gen 42mm PO right here on this forum. It was a hot topic when it came out.

The 5 parts needed to convert the ETA 2846 will be on the clone ETA that comes with the watch.

Also true, although I plan to use a different wheel to carry the GMT hand (I have one that is all 1 piece, so no independent adjustment but also no possibility of slippage)

Sneed - do you plan to do the GMT mod to the 2846 movement yourself - are parts readily available for this conversion?

Yes, and no, but I have a drawer full of parts so I'm sure I will find something that works.

I'm wondering if I can use a gen or gen-spec 1030/1556 date disc as an overlay on an ETA movement.

Just search on eBay for ETA 2846, he's the guy that shows up with "buy it now $99"