sneed12

 I don't think the 16710 came with an engraved rehaut at the end of it's run

There was never a 16710 with engraved rehaut.

To be brutally honest I stay well clear of any movement modded away from its original design. Add complications and you add chances of it going wrong Same problems with the IWC Portuguese and the Rolex Daytona an they all involve a movement where the runnin seconds have been moved from its intended location to another area

On the other hand, it's worth noting that the gen of the Portuguese uses the exact same hack on the exact same base movement. IWC does a much better job of it and jewels everything, of course, but the IWC 79350 is essentially just a regular 7750 with a transfer plate.

I am a n00b but, is there any reason that you don't want to use ETA7753 instead of 7750? 7753 is the same movement as the Val 7750 except the 7753 has the register hands at 3, 6 & 9. Ofrei sells gen 7753 http://www.ofrei.com/page240.html

It'd be fine if it was built for a 7753, but it's not. It's built for a 7750 with a transfer plate, so the case/stem height expects the extra thickness, and the subdial spacing isn't quite the same.

Did you try... google?

1570 datewheel (google image search, 3rd result)

3135 datewheel (google image search, 5th result)

2836 datewheel (google image search, 4th result)

Bummer, I guess I need to convince someone to sell me theirs...

I have a frankened-up one for sale...

Does anyone know what DWO fits the DG movement? I have a spare TC one, so I'm just trying to decide if I'm gonna use a DG or 2836 GMT movement in my 1675 build that I'm planning out. 

Use a 2846 with GMT. It's easy to build. I did a build thread a while ago.

Gives you the best of all worlds: low beat, can use ETA hands, etc.

You can see some blue in the pic.

Do you know if there is a difference between the 2824 and 2824-2?

 

I keep seeing both pop up on my searches for that movement. The person who sold me the case said that it is for 2824 and not 2824-2.

Well that person is an idiot.

There are differences, but they are tiny. Any 2824 will swap with any 2824-2 and vice versa. All external dimensions are exactly the same.

Thanks Sneed, do they make a seperate date wheel for the 2824 that I can swap out?

Yes.

Ebays selection is slim, did find a 2824 but the date wheel was at 6pm instead of 3pm where I need it.

The date-at-6 and date-at-3 movements are identical. All that differs is the printing of the datewheel itself.

Congratulations.

(Am I the only one who thinks, if I picked up a gen AirKing for $700 with a beautiful open six datewheel like that... I'd have the movement beating inside a MBW 1665 and be working on a franken AK to give to my son? It's a disease, I tell ya.)

Well, I don´t think he does any drilling, I did not insisted, this is he´s job not his hobby and I respect that, he is in his full right keep it to himself. He used an other way may be some case modifications and custom made adapter rings.

Sure, maybe he did. But basic dimensions are basic dimensions. The reason for the sunken datewheel is that the movement sits too far back. The reason the movement sits too far back is that there is usually a transfer plate on top of it. Moving the movement forward means moving the entire movement closer to the dial, which means the stem no longer aligns with the tube, which means the tube needs to be moved.

Unless he built a tiny gearbox to offset the stem by 1mm, then he moved the tube somehow. The stem now goes through a place that was metal before. Therefore that metal had to be removed.

Some things you can't get around. It's simply not possible to do this any other way.

Pics are gone, but polexpete's old thread here

http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/134327-navitimer-stem-alignment-for-gen-etas/

Basically, he drills a new hole and uses JB weld to close the old hole. There's no secret.

But you can use any case, Domi has found a trick to make all parts fit, he won´t reveal it

Charitable of him.

In any case, it can't be that much of a "trick"--the stem height has to be changed. No way to do that short of drilling a new hole for the tube. The only "trick" is how you want to install the tube in the new hole and close up the old hole.

but it comes out very well as I gave him a V4 navitimer fighters rep and he installed a gen DW without being sunken directly to the Asian 7750 movement.

Edge, it'll take 1 week to start shipping the finished product?

"at least" = not yet produced. So I sent in my money for a pre-order.

That's fine, I guess, but I kinda wish he'd told me that. My message read "do you have any of these left" and his reply was "Sure I have some."

Are these ready to ship? I just paid for one, but there's a thread over at RWI that suggests they haven't been produced yet.

Do you know any movement Modified to the gen 3187 thats in gmt ii and explorer ii and It changed the hours in one roll "check it in youtube the gmt ii or the explorer ii movement " you will know what i mean 

There is not one. It does not exist. Don't know how to make this any clearer for you.

There is a CHS-modded 2836 (I own a few and have done teardowns/writeups in the past) but it does not have exactly the same functionality.

Thanks guys for all that info

Cause i will get the new Rolex noob Explorer which was recently launched by Angus in his site and i chosed the swiss eta , and i'm wondering if there is a movement will be similar to 3187 i can put it on the watch

Nope.

Bezel markers look out of alignment with dial. Adjusting dial does not look like it would help.

And your girlfriend is fat and ugly.

Seriously, dude, you couldn't find anything nice to say? The new version of the AR on the cyclops looks great.

2824 is high beat. That means 28,800 bph, beats per hour

Unless it means 36,000 bph.

"High beat" and "low beat" are relative, not absolute, terms. And often you'll see 21,6 called "high beat" when compared to 18kpbh movements.

It fits on my right wrist though, because excessive tennis has made it a lot bulkier.

Yeah, "tennis"... sure

If you can set the time with the crown but the hands don't move over time, then your cannon pinion is loose of the center wheel. It is eithet not seated properly or it simply needs to be tightened.

Score, that was my first guess

Cannon pinion needs to be re-crimped would be my guess.

 any idea how i would do that or should i leave it to someone who knows what theyre doing

Well swapping it out is a simple matter of removing the dial and hands, swapping the part, and reassembling. But since it's a Rolex part I bet spares are hard to find.

Re-crimping should definitely be left to an expert.

If the hands are not the proper size, they'd be flopping around, not simply not turning.

Cannon pinion needs to be re-crimped would be my guess.

(EDITED TO ADD: that'd be my guess for an ETA movement, btw--I think the Rolex movements are also direct drive so it should be a valid guess still, but I'm no expert)

Ok Im confused are we talking 21.6k or 28k because I've heard people refer to both as high beat. What are you looking for. 21.6k is high beat compared to 18k

True

All 2824 movements are going to be 28.8kbph unless someone did something funky to it once upon a time. Usually here at the Rolex subforum when we say "low-beat" we mean 21.6kbph, we don't see many 18k movements here. Over at the Panerai forum it's different.

(Also, we usually mean 21.6 but sometimes mean 19.8 since a lot of the older Rolex movements like the 15xx beat at that rate--clear as mud, right?)

All 2824s are high-beat.