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sneed12

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Posts posted by sneed12

  1. Hi everybody,

    I'm looking for a supermodel who is interested in having lots of sex with an average-looking guy with not that much money.

    Must be a good cook, willing to do housework and live with me and my wife.

    Feel free to contact me also privately if you think to have what I'm looking for....

  2. Ever since I built one for Ruprekt (here) I've wanted one of my own. I snagged a lot of parts (gen dial, ETA 2893-2, Noob Explorer) that another member was selling, and put my new watch together this morning.

    Here's a shot of the parts I got, plus a spare movement I had lying around, plus my other Noob Explorer II (which is for sale, now that this build is done).

    100_4208.JPG

    Comparison shots of the dials. Gen dial is on top, original Noob dial on the right (note the gunmetal markers). On the left is the dial with black markers that is currently available new through dealers, which I swapped into this Noob case a while ago (thread on RepGeek here). You can see that the gen dial has a very light stain on the 12 o'clock marker and very very light damage to the "L" in Explorer.

    100_4209.JPG

    I decided to use a Swiss ETA 2836-2 rather than the 2893-2 that came with the kit, since I the GMT hands I have didn't fit the 2893 (I could have ordered one, but I was impatient and I don't like the quality of WSO's stuff). I'm going to try to sell the 2893-2, and if it doesn't sell, I'll install it in my GMT IIc.

    Here you see a 2836-2 w/ Noob DWO, the BK DWO that will replace the Noob one, some hands, and the gen dial.

    100_4211.JPG

    Dial installed, BK DWO installed, hands installed.

    100_4212.JPG

    Completed watch. Gen dial is the one with the bracelet installed, the one on the left is my old watch. As you can see, the "old" one is pretty good, actually! Weakest spots are the lume and DWO.

    100_4217.JPG

  3. Judging by the position of the date window*, and knowing that Steinhart usually builds their homages a few mm bigger, I'm going to guess that case is 42mm or so. I don't think the JoeyB acrylic bezel will fit.

    (*Date window position relative to edge of dial gives a good estimate of overall dial size, since it's in the ETA position. Look at a Tudor Sub dial, there isn't much room between the edge of the date window and the rehaut.)

  4. The simplicity of the sub, yet so difficult to rep for the manufacturers. How hard can it be?

    Res loquitor. If it was easy, it would have been done.

    Once you start building Subs, it starts to be come very clear what the difficulties are. It all starts with the fact that the stem height for the commonly used rep movements is off compared to the 3035/3135.

  5. PS: When I get around to buying one of these and trying to build an ETASwiss Sub myself (which might be a while, cash is tight right now) I'll try it with a 2892. The extra .35mm of stem height doesn't sound like a lot, but I have a feeling every little bit will help.

  6. There have been at least two threads about this case in the past, one of them quite recently (a few months).

    I built a 16610 out of one for a member, and it did take a 2824 although the build was a real pain in the ass. From what I understand, the stem height of a SA3135 is not the same as a gen 3135, and so it may or may not fit this case.

  7. Thank you for the quick response! That is what I thought, just wanted to verify. Yes, I believe the 24-hour hand is on the bottom of the rep I recently purchased from a fellow forum-member here. I have not received it yet but from the pictures that is how it looks (if interested it is the "GMT LN" with green datewheel overlay on the sales forum that I purchased). In that case, is there anyone who will swap out movements for you on here etc? I guess a modder/watchsmith.

    Thanks again!

    It's not a simple swap, and it will at least double the price of your watch.

    You'd need a CHS movement, hands, and probably dial. The only way to get them is to buy the complete GMT IIc CHS from Angus or someone else. I've never seen pics with the dial off so I don't know for sure if a DWO will work with it or not.

    You're looking at ~$300 in parts and labor probably, for a less-reliable movement. You can of course sell your old watch and recoup some of that.

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