Jump to content
When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

sneed12

Member
  • Posts

    1,836
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by sneed12

  1. It's a bit hard to see, since I don't want to open the package, but I don't see any 1's without tails on the gen.

    ad3cf3fd.jpg

    However I also have a BCE with a rep DW in it, I just flipped through all of the dates, and it looks like the 1s all have tails on the rep as well. The "flag" part of the 1 isn't as pronounced on the rep, but I think TA's is a gen.

  2. I've always showered with my watch on, most people do

    I'm sure some do, but I don't think "most" do. I've showered with a lot of women and none of them ever wore a watch in the shower. Haven't showered with many men since I left the military, but even then most of us hung our watches on the towel hook.

    Back on topic, you should not shower with a rep until you've checked the waterproofing yourself.

  3. You would be surprised how much more silver and perfect a stainless steel watch looks after it has been in soap and water. Your body oil turns it gray and dull.

    I wash my watches with soap and water when they get dirty... or when I dive with them, or get food on them when I'm cooking, or whatever. It's not like I'm afraid to get my watches dirty or wet. I just think it's weird to wear a watch in the shower.

  4. I've posted about this watch before, it's a Noob Explorer II case with a TW bezel assembly installed to make a gen-construction GMT II 16710.

    A while ago I picked up one of the new Swiss CHS movements from grifter. Unfortunately in shipping the hour and minute hands got lost... the minute hand was no big deal since it's a standard ETA hand, but the hour hand is the "4th" hand on a CHS movement and there is no ETA analogue.

    I decided to try gen-spec 3185 hands, just for the heck of it, and it turns out that the hour hand fits (none of the others do). I got clarks aftermarket gen-spec hands for $15.

    Finally this weekend I managed to find a free half-hour (things have been really swamped at work) to do the movement swap.

    3e0edde3.jpg

    Installing a date disc with a datewheel overlay already installed is a cast-iron ***** on these movements, none of the usual tricks worked. In the future if possible I'll try to install a regular date disc and then the DWO on top, but this one was assembled by BK and I didn't want to pull it apart because the alignment is fantastic.

    d63ce10c.jpg

    Hour and GMT hands installed

    637a333c.jpg

    Digging through the spare hands drawer to find a minute hand that would fit--the hand that was on there already had too tall of a collar on it.

    ecaf6c15.jpg

    All hands installed

    8ba0e646.jpg

    Final result

    I'm pretty happy with it. The minute hand that I found is a bit scratched up, but oh well. I suppose I can order another set of hands from Gary. The lume on his gen-spec hands was surprisingly good. I'll keep the old ICHS movement and hands in case this one dies, but I'm interested to see how long it lasts.

  5. But with out the date plate on the hour totalised and brake are not held steady and will just fly off when touched, also by removing this plate the the canonpin, hour wheel and seconds pinion will be too long and so will the totaliser pinions, i have a DW 369 in my spares box i will take a photo of what it looks like dial side.

    Well I assumed that the parts DW supplies consist of some sort of plate to hold the 12->3 transfer gears, that sits on top of/replaces the calendar plate... otherwise I don't see how it could work.

    interested to see the pics

  6. The calendar plate is shown here:

    BottomPlateWithCalendarDscn0744.jpg

    it's held on by three screws. Remove the date disc in the usual way, then remove the screws (around the edge) and the whole thing should lift right off.

    Remove them and you're left with this

    BottomPlateCalendarRemovedDscn0771.jpg

    3 and 4 need to be removed. As long as what DW gave you will hold the parts labelled 1 and 2 (hour totalizer and the brake) in place you should be fine.

    Should be pretty straightforward for a watchsmith.

  7. That actually wouldn't be all that hard to rep. Drive the GMT circle-thing off the calendar gear, just like the GMT'ed 2836 works. It looks like there's room.

    PS: I meant it looks to me like it wouldn't be all that hard to get a working "GMT ring" like the one shown; I don't mean that we'd get things like bezel control of functions.

  8. If you can't source one drop me a line, I may have a spare.

    Since you're converting a slow-beat I assume you want a non-adjustable GMT hand? If you remove the adjusting gear (the one installed where the date flipper normally goes) and either install a non-sliding GMT wheel, or glue the two pieces of your GMT wheel together, you get a non-adjusting GMT hand that won't slip, ever.

×
×
  • Create New...
Please Sign In or Sign Up