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Posts posted by sneed12
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How big is your wrist?
The "fat" or thick parts of the strap, close to the lugs, take a while to start to bend/shape to your wrist. It'll get there.
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No. He wore a TAG.
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Sorry, i thought it was obvious, i should have spelt out that I'm talking about personal payments only. For my question, no non-personal types of transactions were considered in my example.
Ah, ok.
I NEVER use personal payments for watches so maybe that's why.
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So just to verify - you're in the US and you have the option to pay the fee or not, just like in my screenshot above?
Not always. It depends on what form of payment you choose ("personal" vs "gift" vs "goods" etc) and how you pay (there are no fees if you pay out of your paypal balance usually) and what the status of both the buyer and the seller is (if one or the other is a business account, there are fees regardless).
If so, does it default to buyer or seller pays the fee when you're paying someone?If there is no option shown, the default is that the seller pays the fees.
The only time I've ever had the option to pay the fees show up is when I've paid as a "personal" payment. Otherwise (if I do purchase as goods) there is no such option, the seller is just stuck with the fees. There are Paypal fees calculators online that let you calculate how much you need to send in order to have someone receive exactly what they ask (to receive $100, you need to send $103.30).
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This is what BK has to say about this:
The crystal is really good. The top edge is more rounded than even Clark's. The mag is higher and therefore more correct than Clark's. I have to say it's the closest rep/aftermarket crystal to gen I have seen. Despite the still obvious etched crown' date=' I will use the stock crystal instead of Clark's for this watch.[/quote']Personally, I prefer the TW crystal to the Clark crystal.
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It is domed. I don't have one anymore, so I can't help with dimensions, sorry. Good luck finding a replacement.
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I would be stunned if any dealer has any. Your only option is to keep a lookout on the various for sale forums.
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I believe I do, and I 'think" that if I set both the regular and 24h hands at exactly the 12 position, then wind the time forward 4 hours, the "regular hands" will indicate normal 4 o'clock, and the 24h hand will indicate to the smaller 4 (at approx the 2:00 position)??
Yes, that's correct. (although it's not "approx" the 2:00 position, it's exactly the 2:00 position)
If it's not doing that, then it's not working properly.
Like I said, I'm surprised--GMT-modded 7750s rarely have problems with slipping, it's usually that the independent adjust doesn't work.
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The Blackbird is a pretty damn good rep, actually.
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No offense, but do you understand how the GMT hand is supposed to work?
Sometimes they slip, but not usually on 7750s.
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The new ceramic LV, I saw it too.
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I know.
What I'm asking is, how is the center seconds hand on a standard 21j driven? Is it direct or indirect?
Then the question is, how is the seconds @ 6 hand driven?
Is it possible to freeze the center seconds without touching the seconds@6, or do you have to clip the center seconds pinion and somehow fix the hand in place?
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How is the seconds hand on a 21j driven? Is it direct?
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It looks like it... but it can't possibly have a 7750 in it.
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She pulled out the President Daydate w/baby blue dial in Platinum, a whopping $57,000 WOW I about fainted.
Well crap, I have a rep of that watch, I guess I'll have to be careful where I wear it
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If I am closer to you then sneed I will also offer my bench to fix it for you.
I'm in the Chicago area, from the UK it's probably a same difference kind of thing. Maybe a UK modder will offer.
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If you feel like trying to ship it to me, I'll fix it for free.
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If you're talking to me, I didn't burn anything. It's not even my watch.
Sorry, missed that
I'm just tired of seeing people swap movements that are working perfectly fine for movements that they think are "better" somehow. Like a 2824->2892 swap.
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This is the only source I know, and the 4th hand may or may not fit.
I might be interested in your black dial and hands (the parts I mean) once you do the swap, just fyi.
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The V2 didn't use a 2824-2. It used the little girly movement 2671 (or something like that)
Did the "little girly movement" run correctly? Seems to me you just burned a bunch of money because you didn't want to have a "little girly movement" in your watch, when it's impossible to tell the difference in function...
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Lining up the dates is annoying, but not at all impossible. I'd find yourself a different watchmaker.
Also, I do not understand the motivation to change things that work. Why swap a 2892 in for a 2824 if the 2824 was working fine?
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Care to show me? I have a messed up one.
What's to show? I don't understand.
I cut about 6 inches off of the end of a B string, take a set of pliers and bend it until it looks like one of those octagon springs, and test-fit it. If it doesn't work I keep playing with it until it does.
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Why are you trying to remove the bezel? Noobmariners have press-in crystals.
If you want to send it to me I can see if one of the spares I have will fit.
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The octagon spring is easy enough to fabricate. I've made several out of guitar strings.
License To Kill
in The Rolex Area
Posted
That white faced tag is the same watch, just with PVD and a white dial. I didn't feel like digging for a pic of it since it's the same model, but clearly I should have