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sneed12

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Posts posted by sneed12

  1. I'll quote myself from another thread:

    The CHS modded 2836's have the GMT hand installed where the hour hand is supposed to go. That's the hand that's geared directly to the calendar wheel. Therefore, the date is not connected with the jumping hour hand at all.

    Yes, the "hour hand" jumps in one hour increments, but it certainly doesn't jump in both directions like a 3185 will and the date will not change no matter how many times you crank it around the dial.

    There is not, and never has been, a rep GMT II that has a movement that would fool any Rolex expert. The CHS watches were fine as long as you didn't try to adjust them in front of anyone, but even they do not actually "behave" like a 3185.

    You can take my word for it or you can tear down a CHS watch.

    CHS is for looks only.

  2. So what you're saying, is that I cannot do this job myself as I have no tools! Great. I don't get it. Either these watches take gen parts or they don't!

    How were you planning to get the parts installed with no tools?

  3. Hello again

    You do not happen to know who can supply in the EU or UK - the postage costs from the WATCHMATERIAL.COM are rather steep.

    Thanks again

    Gordon

    :dunno:

    Even with the shipping it's cheaper than the one in Freddy's post...?

    You could get a $10 eBay bezel insert, they usually come with free shipping, and just use the pearl if you like, but it won't be nearly as good.

  4. I guess that last comment comes off a little snarky, let me rephrase.

    There isn't a rep for $400 that takes "all" gen parts. Most reps will take a gen crown and tube. Many good reps can take a gen crystal. Some will take a gen bezel assembly. Nothing in that price range will take a gen movement.

  5. I've been doing research for years now honestly I just want a really good dependable submariner and am not that Picky

    Glad to hear it.

    My basic requirements for a sub is 120 click UNI directional bezel correct markings correct 2.5 magnification all the basic stuff and eventually I'll ad original equipment to it to phase out all the replicated parts so the watch would need to be interchangable with the original model

    Oh, is that all? :rolleyes:

  6. Here's some advice that you don't want to hear:

    Don't buy a watch yet.

    Spend a month reading threads here, learning about the different models of reps. Study some pics and learn what the tells are, and decide what things bother you and what things don't.

    Then, figure out which watch is the best for you.

    You might find that an $80 21j Noobmariner is the best value for you--a Noobmariner is a heck of a good watch. Not as good as a BK/WM9 v3, but about 10% of the price too.

    Seriously. Think about it. Do some research. Just some friendly advice.

  7. The 92 is of later type design and is therefor better overall but not by much.

    I wouldn't agree with this statement--winding efficiency is slightly better on the 2824/36.

    They're roughly equivalent. The reason why the 2892 is "perceived" to be a more premium movement is because it's thinner, and there was a time when thin watches were fashionable.

    That said, we need pics/links of the watches you're looking at. IMO, there isn't an acceptable YM rep at the momement.

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