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Mapman57

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Posts posted by Mapman57

  1. i have a gen coming for me from BQW to have a look at with a batch of watches for a customer to see how it suits if he buys what i think he will buy then i will get the gen i have been obsessing over one for a while that and a 6542

    but i wanted to build one too just for the building experience its my own fault for rushing in to buying parts ive spent about $2000 in 4 weeks on watches and gen parts i have the sickness

    The Gen is always the way to go on a 1675 so I hope that deal wprks out for you - or a build like Gw4k says above, for the reasons he says - but that's just my opinion, supporting his spec build and budget. You will always sell your Gen Rolex parts on the Rep and/or Gen forums, so that is not a loss.

    I have also collected a lot parts for a mid 1980's, transitional T dial 16750 build, incl Gen dial, crown, full jubilee and inserts. I am thinking to abandon it now, even though I have all of the parts for the final assembly :g:

  2. Wow a case set at $1450..............it should look more than great RA !!!!! No disrespect RA - love all your work on these but that is one heck of a build budget to kick off with?

    Archie - stick with the Josh 1655 and mod it - a rep, is a rep, is a rep! Or pick up a Gen watch for $4000!

  3. I have the "Rolex Tudor Submariner black Dial Parts for date 9411 for cal 2824 ".

    I'm guessing I need to cancel the order for the 2783 movement?

    No - do not do that alone - it all has to match together.

    Just simply check which Josh 5513 you have ordered - is it A2836 clone movement??? It may have the date wheel installed anyhow, even though it is a no date watch - many do? If it is the DG2813 21j cheapo then it is a no go!

    Or, swap the 5513 to a date versions, or catch and release the 5513 no date - I might be interested myself! Has it shipped yet from Josh?

    If you want/intend a super franken, high budget build go the Ofrei route with eta 27xx, if not just go A2836 with the Yuki cal 2824 dial.

    The Yuki dial ordered, will drop straight in a Josh 5513 with A2836 - thats the simplest way to think.

  4. Nothing wrong with the A2836 route, just make sure your dial has the right feet. Dials with 2784 dial feet (around 11/41) will not fit dials with 28xx feet (around 12/42). All three of my 94x1 dials are made for the 278x movements. Right now I'm building one with a 2770 no-date movement and one with a 2783. As Tudor did use the 2783 in some 9411s, it works for me! B)

    Thanks, that is an excellent point you have raised!

    OP - You can pick up a 2836 from Helenarou?, but I meant for you to buy the complete Josh 5513 with eta 2836 clone in it - then swap dial and hands only.

  5. As far as I know, Tudor used both the 2783 (21.6k) and 2784 (28.8k) in the 9401s and 9411s. Thus, either movement should be correct. Ofrei sells new 2783s for $96. Alternatively, you could use a 2846 (generally around $100 new on Ebay) for a 21.6k beat rate, or a 2836 for 28.8k. I would not use the 2824 in the Josh case, as it is my understanding that the 2824's stem height could cause problems.

    The 2783 was available up to 1976 and used by Tudor in some early 94xx series and is quite rare - compared to the 2784.

    It's still probably cheaper to utilise a clone A2836 from the josh 5513, as this beats at the same rate as the 2784, which is the main engine for the 9411/0 and later 941110 series. This way you know it fits the case and stem without any risk?

    Just trying to save you money! ;)

  6. SO the Gen Bezel was a good fit?

    Yes, no problem. The Noob and Gen are pretty spot on size for size.

    Main differences are -

    font and inlay fill on numbers - smooth and fill fill finish on Gen

    Radial brushed polish on Gen - though mine is a 'little used' - came out of a friendly watchsmith service!

    Gen has an o ring on the underside that seals/seats against the case

    I will pop some comparison pictures up later in the week, if there is any interest.

    As the Krysworks crystal and gasket are supposedly OEM spec, I expect this model takes an oem crystal as well?

  7. Again, should I care about the movement or just get the cheapest 5513 available? Josh and several other dealers have different versions of the 5513 with different movements, ranging from $118 to $298.

    depends on what model Tudor you plan to put together. If it is a later snowflake based on a 9411/0 or 94110 in a 5513 case you are best getting a higher beat eta clone to replicate the 28k beat rate eta 2784 that is in the Gen.

    if you is building an earlier 7928 then a 21k beat DG2813 will be nearer to the beat rate but still a little fast.

  8. LB - thanks for the feedback. When I get a chance I will pop up a comparison of the Noob bezel and the Gen bezel - the Noob is good, but there are key differences.

    I really can't comment on the TW crystals, as I have never owned or handled one. My BK GMT Noob had the original Noob crystal fitted from memory.

    In my opinion, this is a great spec crystal and has excellent clarity and date mag. It has generated a lot of interest in real life and across the forums; and from the research I made it was reputably the best upgrade available. Others might chime in on that view?

    There is no LEC to be concerned over and the Krysworks site is appealing to Gen (and homage) owners, more than the Rep market from what I can see.

    For the money, I would try one if you have a build in mind, I don't think you will be disappointed, I am very happy with it?

    My only comment is that it appears to 'smear' a lot - kind of tricky to keep really clean and clear???

  9. Wow, the noob case can take a gen crystal?

    Looks awesome!

    It's not a Gen crystal guys...............

    Where can i find that crystal? That's very very nice..

    It's a Krysworks crystal 295/C-2 and gasket installed

    csr295c2Title.gif

    csr295ci.gif Description Generic Rolex® replacement sapphire crystal for 295/C-2. For Rolex® Submariners, GMT Master I & II. Includes special 295-C2 gasket.

    Fits Rolex® Cases:

    16550, 16570, 16610, 16613, 16618, 16700, 16710, 16713, 16718, 16758, 16760, 16800, 16803, 16808

    $27.50

  10. Thanks guys!

    Im specifically talking about a 78350.

    Seller sent pictures and the clasp has the rounded 3's

    That's interesting. Never seen a round 3 on any clasp, but take a look here for some great pics of a full bracelet - this one has good looking clasp with flat 3 and strange bracelet end with rounded 3?

    http://home.watchprosite.com/?show=forumpost&fi=712&pi=5075003&ti=764213

    This is relevant also as it suggests that any rounded 3 on a part of a bracelet is aftermarket....

    http://www.network54.com/Forum/207593/thread/1322153207/78350+Band,++Inverted+19,+any+tought-input+--

    • Like 1
  11. The bracelet is a mish mash of parts as we all know.

    The 93250 relates to a solid mid link bracelet - but it may indeed be hollow - as it is a rep and we do not yet know BUT FOR ME THEY LOOK HOLLOW ON THE PICS so this is good!

    The end link if Gen should be 19mm, BUT as can be seen it is a good fit to the lugs and probably, it has been used simply because it is a good fit to the case and sits and looks great when being worn - which is also good news

    If they are gen they have some value - if rep, very little value. If they are rep they can have 19mm 71N markings but be 20mm in size - they are rep!!!!

    If the EL's fit great and the links are hollow - you might find this is a great looking and fitting bracelet, that looks and feels good - but has all of the wrong markings - and therefore so what? When it is on it will look great, feel great and work great.

    If your wish is make it closer to Gen then indeed this can be achieved quite quickly and at very little extra cost by;

    a new aged insert and acrylic pearl

    a T19 plexi - Clark

    CG's reshaped (plenty to work on)

    It would be great to know if this is a MBW case - it might well be looking at the lugs and CGs and side elevation (pin bar holes etc)?

    You do not say what you paid, but it looks a nice piece with even more potential.

    Enjoy and tell us more when you can...

  12. What exactly do you wish to know?

    Flat 3 is certainly correct on Gen 93150 bracelets and clasps up to PJ code 2008: and all reps I have ever seen have rounded 3 's?

    Not sure on other set ups?

  13. Ive seen many bracelets for sale and the buckles rarely match the bracelet. No question the buckle must match the bracelet to qualify for 100% gen. Some ebayers sell 78360 bracelets to fit subs, with a 93150 buckle, and vice versa. A 93150 bracelet carrys a matching buckle stamped 93150. Even though the stainless oyster bracelet for the datejust and sub are the same construction, the numbers must match, 78360 bracelet 78360 buckle 93150 bracelet 93150 buckle. There is no mix and match from rolex. Good luck

    Not sure I would totally agree with that, back in those days and now , I understand you can specify/purchase a full flip lock Sub clasp (like 93150), on a non Sub bracelet (like 78360), such as you have described - if preferred. You can also mix and match end links to suit as well.

    A mixed spec bracelet can still be Genuine Rolex parts, but not original factory fit OEM spec - if that makes sense? Or maybe that it what you meant anyhow ?

    The regular, ex OEM spec is of course 93150/93150/585 (GWSD) et al. But a mixed build does not imply it is a botched/rep/aftermarket build.

    I have found numerous references to this across the Rolex forums.

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