rbj69

well i have always like mbw and wm watches but the one thing is they use genuine dials, so they cut the feet off the back that installs them and secures them to the movment , and then they glue it right onto the dial which imho sucks lol to make a long story short i have experimented with genuine dials and this is what u have to do and if u use a asian dial on a swiss movment , just many different better dials will not fit the movment u already got someone mentioned epoxy the feet back on but that is just as difficult and probably will not hold up either so i finally did it and purchased a machine that reinstalls these feet to the back of the dial correctly , so soon u will be able to have all your glued in dials fixed correctly to the movment

i dont like having to glue a dial down to the movment so i just purchase a new dial foot installer , so i can remove the feet on the asian dial and put new feet on it to fit the eta swiss movment, i always wanted one but they r very expensive u know , i know u wouldnt blame me but i just like saying that every now and then lol

hello i used 01 real fine tweezers and i used flat tweezers looks like two small screwdrivers on each end, and there was a tad of residue but the markers r bigger than the ones on the asian so it cover it up after i was done, the logo left one tiny string of the flexible type glue and i removed it very carefully with the very fine tweezer making sure i didnt touch the dial and or scratch it, make sure to put your dial in a holder and secure it in the small vise so all u have to tend with is your hands and tweezers lol also remember im always working on tidious stuff that is tiny and delicate so it is like second nature for me , in other words BE VERY CAREFUL , i dont know if u r like me but one scratch i cant live with that and it will bug me to death lol also a disclaimer anything u attempt at home that i tell u how i did it is not my responsibility , so in other words i will teach u but dont blame me if u mess something up , lmao

yes welcome and glad u fit right in, go look at my review on planet oceans and some stuff im doing to make them even more accurate

i recommend if u dont ahve the correct abrasive wheel like rolex uses , which i use now but used to i used to achieve just about the same finish as this expensive wheel just more hard work thats all lol i used automotive wet/dry sand paper it is greyish black in color , i used 600 grit and 1000grit , i cut them in strips so i could push in one direction easier with my ugly large thumbtool and it would give u a great finish but remember stay in one uniform direction about a dozen times till u get the brushed lines u want , i recommend a more satin than brush finish on the drsd so that is where the 1000 grit comes into play do the same over top of the 600 grit to achieve that , hope this helps u

nice watches my friend, wonder why the lv is your favorite? i know my reasons , what is yours ? lol

dont forget the blue screws , lmao

i use a heat gun and heat it till it gets too hot to touch then i use a razor and pust it off , then i wait till it cools and use a razor blade to peel off the residue glue from the crystal, hope this helps

what u should do is wait till we get our cyclops and then u will have at least three from me to do and i know aobut 3 of my customers to do after we replace the cyclops and then have the whole thing ar coated, wowowowo

that was funny u sounded like a good ole boy from my neck of the woods lmao someone asked could i put the finished product up but i cant till i reieve my replacement watch , when i do i will put it all together like i like it and then u will see it in action on by-thors wrist checks lol

its easy to me but i can see many messing up , it is glued on to the face with like a rubber cement type glue and u have to be very careful and have some of the finest point tweezers that actually grip good and gently remove it , i started on one end and wiggled gently and worked it around and then once i could get under it i simply pulled straight up on it till the rubber string let go lol not a job for the faint hearted for sure lol hope this helps

i dont really care about the inside of the watch as long as it is eta as far as the logo goes on the rotor but i dont like the plastic retaining ring so i will make me a stainless steel one for it soon as i get to it lol my main concerns r the outer appearance, the funny thing is the asian po has the perfect engraved PLANET OCEAN on the case back but the middle logo is a dark grey sticker , lmao so i still like the 4th caseback better even if the lettering is etched , but mainly the dial was my concern , cause that logo and the white print was a little blurred and the orange numbers were a bit too thick with that hideous white lining around it , and now i think im really as close as u will get on a dial without buying genuine , thanks guys for your comments

hello , welcome and waz up

put me in coach , lol

something else i notice comparing a upclose pic of the genuine to what i have now is the color of the dial numbers and the end tip of the second hand r different in color as well here is genuine here is what i have after i did the dial changing stuff , remember they r blowed u (meaning magnified)

well for me the asian dials font and stuff is whiter and brighter(or should i say less blurred and not as crooked) than the 4th gen. po , but the markers on the 4th is more correct size and the logo is more correct in shape and size, so i said why dont i take the asian dial and swap the markers from one to the other and make the logo spacing right and being the asian dial has the correct number fonts (6,9,12) and the white writing is so much more bolder and brighter and more correct sized , then i would have a perfect dialed po , so here is the beginning of this task , u know me i cant let it be as is lol so u r not confused, the omega lettering under the logo is not quite as big on the genuine more like the asian and the 4th has a slight blurred look to it if u really look at it good especially uncased, and if u look at the letter "r" at the end of the seamaster on the asian it is more correct , and also the number in orange r more correct on the asian dial , the 4ths have a white outline and r too thick, and on the 4th the word professional is in a slight slant from the word seamaster, but not at a glance noticeable but it is when u look carefully now my question for u guys is what color is the lume C1 super or C3 super, some pics look like one and the other of the gens. lol thanks here is a side by side comparison of the dials , u can tell by the asian has the smaller markers but the reall pretty print and the omega logo is round metal and the 4th's is flat and more raised which looks like the genuine heres the marker size difference heres one installed so u can see the difference beside the smaller ones here it is with all markers changed over to the asian dial and the logo changed over as well and it is in a better position, dont u think? so do u think this dial is better now? tell me your thoughts, also keep in mind it is blowed up so it really looks better in person also notice the orange on the 4th is lighter in color as the asian is a darker orange and it appears to be more correct to me from what i have seen but the main thing was the numbers were more correct sized and crispier looking to me and the outline is almost unbareable

i say the asian is more correct with the bighter whiter tick marks and white lettering above the six and under the 12 oclock , but i think the markers r more accurate sized on the 4th planet ocean and the logo shape and size is more accurate on the 4th , so im in the process of transferring the markers from the fourth to the asian dial and positioning the logo off of the 4th and putting it on the asian in a more accurate gap , the asian font size and numbers at 6,9,and 12 r almost perfect as well and those numbers on the 4th frankly r ugly cause they r thicker and have a white border which is not right either, i have already checkd if the dial would fit the eta and it will with a coupld of modifications(cut the feet and glue it to the gap ring in between the movment and the dial , i will post some stuff in just a minute , while im at it does anyone know what color lume it should have on the genuine, i assume white C1 superluminova but im not sure cause some pics i have seen have a slightly greenish tint to it , thanks for any information

here is a comparison of andrews chinese one and the 4th po with swiss ,just a quick dial comparison , the number r more correct on the chinese the logo is higher , the 4th po dial has some kind of white small outline around the edge of the numbers at 6,9,12 kind of weird looking if u look at it hard lol , the lume on the 4th is whiter in color than the asian one which has a slightly green tint like C3 lume , the second hands appear to be aobut the same length and the hands as well , im just comparing dials for u so u can see the logo positioning and print ok they r quick pics so i didnt hide shadows and stuff like that ok asian one 4th po from andrew asian one 4th po

well being she is daddys girl i guess i could fit her with a nice girly watch but that would only be fun for the ladies lol i may just put her in the jumbo , i think the t3 would look too sporty for her lmao and she may fall down with it on lol

get u about three of those daylight bulbs u can buy anywhere they coil and look like a flourescent tube and put it in those shop lamp with the clips on them and place them accordingly and u may be cooking with something then

i just worked on the ti avenger and it is one big darn watch lol i say the po for sure for my taste lol

i got ya, i just didnt want people to think it would be that much cheaper to get taht one for a 100 or 120 bucks and swap everything out parts and labor than getting one already with the eta and has some better stuff for just about the same money not much difference really in my eyes , but for u having the stuff already and experimental it didnt break the bank and not a bad idea at all and u did a good job on waht u did do , i hope u didnt take it as i was knocking u cause i wasnt at all , i was only letting people know the pros and cons of it thats all , thats what people expect from me to let them know the whole if i do know , later dude rbj69 (still havent successfully removed them damn screws yet, i have your bezel off though ) lol

lol im working on a foundation for her , they r a little smaller than the fiddy , lol

it appears your bezel insert is not seated correctly, u need to get it to sit inside the lip of the bezel edge so it is underneath it but flush , yours is sitting basically on top of it, so u need to mill the inside(underneath) of it down a bit to fit it properly, just some help for u and it appears this is the chinese regualar case, see the good ones that u hear about from watchmaster that i do , if u look around your edge of your crystal u see the white crystal gasket all the way around quite easily , on the genuine and the better replicas u dont have this flaw, so basically that is just a couple of things that is different than the more expensive one, not to mention the thickness of the case back and the heaviness and the stainless steel is even a different grade , so basically if u did the one u have done and didnt have a eta laying around and hands etc.and had to buy and install it really isnt much different in price as getting the better watch with the eta already in it, but in your case it was cheaper cause u had extra parts laying around from other things u took apart and experimented on lol

cool picture , u r really get good at this photo stuff