freddy333

2 questions for anyone who has experience fitting a SATA drive to an older, IDE-only motherboard -

1. Will I gain any of the SATA drive's performance/data transfer speed by swapping a 250GB IDE drive for a 250GB SATA drive on an IDE-only motherboard? That is, if I connect a SATA drive via a SATA PCI card or IDE-to-SATA adapter, will I gain any of the SATA's speed benefits, or will the IDE and PCI channels the SATA's connected to bottleneck any gains, thus crippling the SATA to no more than IDE performance?

If the answer above is yes (ie, the SATA drive will still produce slightly better performance than the IDE drive) -
2. What is the best way, performance wise, to connect the SATA to the motherboard--SATA card in PCI (not PCI-e!) slot or IDE-to-SATA adapter (attached to IDE jack on motherboard & SATA drive attached to adapter)?

I am aware that upgrading the motherboard would be more cost-effective, but, for a variety of reasons, that is not an option here.

If the noise is coming from the crown itself (ie, the crown makes noise when removed from the movement), then it is probably due to the inner spring or plunger having deteriorated to the point where there are only pieces left that are grinding together as you attempt to turn the cap against the inner components. Unfortunately, photobucket has blocked all the pics, but this thread should help explain what is going on.

This may help (sorry, all I have left on my computer) -

Excepting the Aryan 'Master's aftermarket insert, here are a few gens (with a musical theme) that I have not worn in awhile (none are for sale) -

Z-Friday Wristie

13 hours ago, Nanuq said:

Very nice Freddy, we haven't seen that Small Crown in quite awhile. Encore!

There is some very heavy metal in this thread, gents!

Encore -

38 minutes ago, kingquest_s said:

Where do u source your coronet? I looking for my datejust to replace the BP now.

Please do not repost an entire post (especially those with several pics) just to add a line or 2 at the end. Either just post your comment or edit out the pics. It gets tiring having to repeatedly scroll through pages of duplicate pics.

18 minutes ago, RobU said:

I know the price is steep, but not when you compare it to the $400 - $600K for a gen 6263 exotic dial.

I forgot to post a pic of the heart.

Looks good, but I think you mean $40-$60k (not $400-$600k) for the dial. With a few rare exceptions, the value of an entire mint Newman is generally between $100-$150k.

Nicely done, especially the plate modifications.

26 minutes ago, RobU said:

Is there a difference from these?  It looks like they have similar alignments.

Those 2 look fine.

In '66, either type would have been fitted, often depending on customer preference. However, the end links used with either bracelet did change during the 6239's run, but all of the correct links are unobtainium now.

To be accurate, a riveted or folded-link Oyster bracelet would have been spec'd.

Post a pic of the movement & you will have an instant answer.

Yes, it does look a bit too tall. This is often a problem with some aftermarket Daytona cases. On 1 of my early Daytona projects, I had to grind down a crystal to get it to seat at the correct height. That may be what you need to do here. Or, better yet, just ignore it since you are more likely to damage a good crystal rather than someone calling you out due to a slight height issue.

Ideally, the bezel should begin where the bevel on the crystal begins. In other words, when you view the watch from the side, all you see rising above the bezel is the bevel of the crystal (little or nothing of the straight vertical part). Google is your best source for gen pics, but many non-Rolex watchmakers opt for aftermarket crystals due to the expense & difficulty in sourcing them through The Network. So be careful not to mistake an aftermarket crystal for a gen out there.

If you post dial pics (1024x768) of the options, then it will be easier for people to post opinions.

As for the movements, I have been a bit out of the (rep) game for the past few years, so others with more recent 7750 experience will need to provide the guidance there. In the meantime, as always, anyone considering a 7750-powered secs @ 6 Daytona is encouraged to search out Ziggy's & By-Tor's brilliant Asian 7750/Daytona guides so you understand what you are getting into.

Impossible to tell for certain with that picture, but it looks fake to me.

Based on my own experience as well as conversations with Ziggy (way back when), none of this is new. More than 10 years ago, I began telling people not to complain about the 'crazy' prices being asked for gen Rolex parts (when you can source them), because those prices will seem like (missed) bargains next year. & that is precisely what happened & the pattern has continued to this day. As the old-timer watchsmiths retired, there are fewer 'old-timers' to take their place. Those few coming out of Lilitz & similar (Rolex-sponsored) schools may not be prepared for the cut-throat world they will enter upon graduation - assuming they can find quality, sustainable employment. That leaves the franken owner stuck with choosing between risking trouble with Rolex if they attempt to seek service within The Network or having their pride-&-joy mucked-up by a wannabe or bottom-line-driven bargain watch 'modder'.

I think it also worth mentioning that all the major watch forums are experiencing slow-downs as new technology (eg, smart watches), ever-rising purchase/repair costs & just plain boredom spirit eyeballs (& attention) away from watches. Unfortunately, I do not have all the answers, but I can recognize a pattern when I see 1 & this is not a good 1.

I think the 'misalignment' you see is due either to parallax or camera angle.

Still, what I am referring to is the centering of the coronet over the word ROLEX. I have never seen a genuine Daytona where this alignment is uneven when viewed dead-on. Rolex would never let something like that leave the factory & certainly no Rolex customer would accept it.

16 hours ago, djulink said:

I've been searching also how to replace them on my DW 6239 and finally went with CousinsUK ones.

I did not know at the time but have been doing exactly what Freddy described in order to have proper pusher stem length

Looks good.
 

I have not seen any genuine off-center 62xx Daytonas. Can you post some pics?

6 hours ago, danielv2000 said:

I'll post pics but it's always the wrong the length - either the pusher or the stem.  I'm so frustrated!  I lost my original one over a year ago and have been struggling ever since.

Odd. Several years ago, I posted a thread comparing my disassembled gen 6239 pushers (removed from a sealed Rolex package) to Ofrei's (PD61.701) &, after sizing for my case, I could not tell the difference between them. You do know that the pusher stems must be cut & slotted (for a screwdriver blade) to fit your case?

If you have the original pusher, simply measure & cut the Ofrei to match it. If you do not have the original, install the pusher into the case & test fit the movement. Cut its length so that the movement clears during casing, but has sufficient length to operate the chrono when assembled.

Well done. The only major 'tell' are the 3 slightly off-center lines of text.

Wore my DRSD today