freddy333

59 minutes ago, Nanuq said:

Well I could post a photo of my skanky bear gun... not a pretty sight!

Considering the state of some of your flame-tested timepieces, how bad can your bear gun be?

A parts kit is all fine & well, but the theme of this thread is eye candy. Where are the pics of this dreamy 7.62x39 shooter?

I know I am not the only enthusiast here. Do I need to prime the pump further?

It has been a long time since the last good gun thread, so I think today is a good day to start a new 1.

I am aware that some people have an innate fear or dislike of guns (I used to be 1 of you). If so, I bow to your convictions.

However, for those who understand & appreciate the beauty & power of these inanimate objects that can be used for either good or evil -- depending on the intentions of the human in possession of them -- I think it is time for another thread of cool pea-shooter candy.

Here are a couple of mine to start things off............

Looks like the wrong hand (too large for pinion).

Welcome & good luck in the profession!

The timezone course is very good & useful for getting your feet wet. But, as was said above, it is simply an introduction & does not make you a watchmaker. After successful completion of the course, you will be able to overhaul a working ETA movement, but diagnostics/repair will require much more.

4 hours ago, philwongnz said:

I think the flag print is not right, it should be kissing the right subdial with no white/cream spaces..

Yes & the face should be whiter (less yellowish), smoother (less gravely) & with a bit more space between the bottom of the red line @ 12 & the top of the coronet. The colors should be a bit darker. Otherwise, pretty good.

I would love to see a good, clear 1024x680 pic, but what I can see looks nice.

Ditto.

Wearing my Bond Sub

57 minutes ago, slay said:

Yeah... when I read this I thought 'this sounds more complicated than brain surgery'

Most watchmakers' hesitancy to perform routine poising results from a simple cost/benefit analysis.

In order to repair an errant movement, I must occasionally sort out a mangled hair spring. But I do that because I have no other choice. This is not because I lack the skills, but because the potential upside (questionable improvement in timing consistency) is far outweighed by the potential downside (of hairspring damage). & this is amplified when working on vintage Rolex pieces where replacement 'springs are expensive & difficult (often nearly impossible) to come by. Why tempt fate for what is often little or no return since factory-set poising rarely needs to be corrected during normal use. This is why I questioned your watchmaker's choice of routine poising.

slay, if your watchmaker has the time/skill to perform this delicate, factory-set adjustment routinely, my hat's off to him.

33 minutes ago, slay said:

Not all watchmakers poise the balance etc. during service. Some will just take apart to clean/oil gears/jewels/bridges and adjust the time.

I do not know any watchmakers (including myself) who poise the balance as part of a routine service. In fact, unless there is a specific problem with the balance, I cannot think why you would disassemble it in the 1st place. The only time I would poise a balance is when replacing/repairing the hairspring, balance wheel or balance screws.

6 minutes ago, Nanuq said:

Gotta keep the kids trained up! Now she has her own M9A1 and is pretty good with it.

USA!USA!USA!USA!USA!USA!

1 minute ago, Nanuq said:

We do that here in Alaska too but the shivers throw your aim off.

I feel cold just looking at the picture.

4 minutes ago, TheSociety said:

I definitely will be doing this! Do you have a recommendation on US servicing on a movement like this?

The 103x caliber is a relatively easy movement for an experienced watchmaker to work on. Trouble is getting parts, since Rolex has not manufactured new 103x parts for decades. But, if you are patient & have deep pockets, they can be found.
If you cannot locate a local Rolex certified service tech, try Bob Ridley.

18 minutes ago, Nanuq said:

Yep this is why my 1030s only get worn on special occasions now.

This is also 1 of the reasons it is recommended that mechanical movements be overhauled every 5-7 years. Keeping those wear parts clean & well-oiled will extend their usable lifespan. 1 of the parts that had to be replaced when I built my Phase 2 6542 was that rotor, due to bearing wear. Fortunately, after a great deal of effort, I was able to locate a NOS part & I overhauled the movement last year & found the bearing in fine fettle.

Ah, freedom in the good old US of A.............
Looks like some fun down there in Texas! Here is a shot of a small group of us from a shoot in WVA last month
 

& 1 with a watch to stay on topic (watches)

2 hours ago, automatico said:

Btw, the 1030 has one more or less common problem that is expen$ive to fix today because of few parts...the winding rotor bearing p/n 7004.  They used to be $30, now they are $200 or $300 when you can find one and many movements will need one.  Projects with cal 1520/30/60/70 usually end up costing less and parts are much easier to find.  Rotor bearings for a 15xx are $15 or $20 a set but it is usually the rotor axle that goes bad, about $12 plus labor.  Reverser parts for a 1030 are harder to find than 15xx parts too.

Ditto.

A fair price is what a buyer is willing to pay. Currently, for a clean/working 1030, I would consider $1,800-$2,000 a reasonable range.