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freddy333

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Posts posted by freddy333

  1. The most difficult part, assuming you lack the tools, will be refitting the bezel.

    Depending on the construction of your particular rep watch, the bezel can usually be pried-off with a thin knife/blade. Sometimes, this can take some time if the bezel is tight or has been affixed with cement (cheap reps are often assembled this way). Just work the knife in a tiny bit in between the bottom of the bezel & top of the case. Move all the way around the case evenly &, eventually, the bezel will come lose & can be lifted off. Sometimes, it takes a few minutes, but, sometimes, it can take 30+ minutes. It all depends on the fit of your particular bezel/case. Once the bezel is off, the crystal, again, assuming it also was not cemented onto the case, should lift off (by hand) or can be gently nudged with the edge of the knife in the same fashion as the bezel (work slowly all the way around the crystal).

    To reinstall, simply reverse the procedure - install crystal, then bezel. It is best to have a good caseback press & set of nylon 'pucks' that fit the perimeter of the bezel & perimeter of the caseback to press the bezel back on. However, if you are careful, you may be able to refit the bezel using an appropriately-sized pair of socket wrench sockets (or something similar - any round, cylindrical object with a smooth face that fits will work) & a vice. Just be careful to press gently, slowly & keep the watch centered in the vice so the bezel presses on evenly. Otherwise, if it gets pressed on unevenly, you are likely to warp it, which adds alot of additional headaches. Also, it should be obvious, but just to be clear, the cylinder you use on the bezel side (to press it onto the case) must not come into contact with the crystal as this will crack/crush it. You can probably find youtube videos that show how to press a bezel on to give you an idea of the process & make it easier to find substitutes for the nylon 'pucks'.

    • Like 2
  2. Once dry, there are no fumes to worry about from standard super glue & because it sets quickly, there is less chance of leaving glue 'webs' on the dial. GS has a tendency to lose its grip over time. But whatever you feel comfortable with...................

  3. No tutorial for reattaching a detached dial part that I am aware of. You can usually reattach using superglue or similar adhesive, but I would practice gluing small metal bits onto a practice plate before attempting it on your dial because it is VERY easy to get glue on the dial face. I have to say that the rep in the link is not very good, so you may be better off just replacing the watch with 1 from Trusty or Josh. To avoid throwing good money after bad, before hitting another BUY button, I would recommend that you do some research on whichever gen Daytona model you want & you might also check out By-Tor's Daytona reviews that should be available via the search function here on RWG.

    & if you get glue on the dial, you are screwed - there is no way to fix it (without damaging the dial paint) other than replacing or repainting the dial.

    • Like 1
  4. Decase the watch and let it run out of the case for 24 hours. If it keeps running (out of the case), the problem may be due to the hands coming into contact with the underside of the crystal. If it stops out of the case, you will need to have it looked at/treated.

    The problem with swapping 7750 movements is that, in addition to the dial/handset, you will also need to transplant the additional plate & 9 wheels that relocate the running seconds from 9-to-6 o'clock. & even if you do that, as explained previously, unless the movement is overhauled & treated with powdered graphite, because the secs @ 6 7750s are inherently unreliable with the additional gearing, the next 1 is likely to stop as well. There are a number of tech articles on RWG (the best by Ziggy & By-Tor) that detail the issue. Unfortunately, there are no easy answers or simple shortcuts that I am aware of. This is why many opt for 1 of the 1165xx Daytonas that have non-functional chronographs (ie, basic 3-hand movement with running secs @ 6).

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