Akira

Hello folks,

can't find a better place to post this, so General Discussion it is

I sent my Daytona 6263 to FxrAndy to replace the DW tube with a Yuki aftermarket one and

install my gen 24-703 crown.

Job was done perfectly and very fast! Excellent communication! A really nice guy!

Here some pics with new crown and T21, which I've installed myself

Thanks again

Back to my beater-s

Freddy your watch has one of the greates inserts I've seen

I'm still wearing 1675

+1 on LHOOQ

Subdial layout says V23 or V72

And since DW sells mostly factory rejected parts it wouldn't surprise me if this was just a miss-production

Anyways it looks pretty good and I would just cut off the feet.

Bump

Can someone give me infos on my question above?

Great looking watch Akira. Congrats!

I'm not sure about a 24-600 crown fitting a 24-5030 tube, wouldn't a 24-503 crown be the correct fit? It's still a 6mm size, or close to it.

Gen 1675 case has a #24-5030 tube and a #24-503 crown.

Gen 1655 case has a #24-5030 tube and a #24-600 crown.

Since this is a 1:1 1655 case, the 600 is the better fit. I tried the 503 crown as well and it looks too small between the CG's

I recall everyone who has built this 1675 based on the 1655 is using a 24-600.

Thanks for the kind words

First of all I agree it's not a the perfect watch to lign up next to a lightsaber, but it makes a great photo nontheless

And yes Chieftang, not only the bracelet needs to look a little more used....the case and plexi do so as well, to match the insert a little bit better.

But this will come naturally very fast

Hello,

many of you know from my previous thread(s), that I've started to source parts to build a 1675 a while back.

The following are pictures I made this weekend from the (almost) finished watch.

It simulates a MKI 1675 2.4 Mill series from 1969

It was build by Rolexaddict with the following mods and parts after genuine specs.

Parts:

Cartel 1:1 1655 case

WSO990 bezel assembly

Rivet bracelet

Clarks #25-116

Caseback of a new style GMT II

CousinUK's DG3804 movement

Genuine pepsi insert

Genuine MKI matte dial

Genuine tube #24-5030

Genuine crown #24-600 -> has not arrived yet, pictures show rep crown

Genuine springbars

Genuine hours, seconds & GMT hand

Raffle-times minutes hand

Mods done by RA:

CG shaving

Lugholes drilling

Hands drilling & fitting the DG movement

Installing and sanding the 24-116

Installing gen tube

Installing the aftermarket bezel

Reluming the damaged dial and hands

Can you guess the LP?

Next to my 'Star Wars V: The empire strikes back / Luke Skywalker' miniature lightsaber

And a couple of wristies

Thanks to everybody supporting me and giving me advice on the project.

Special thanks to

Rolexaddict, Phriznik, cib0rgman, FxrAndy, Andygt, Sfa437

I hope you like it

Cheers

Akira

It's actually a creamy silver

The exposure in my pic isn't the best, though the crappy cam.

Maybe this pic shows it a little better

Vintage Daytonas rule!

'nough said!

For me it was the 6263 in my sig

What else but my freshly arrived 1675

Have a good weekend all

Like it was said earlier Andrew Shear is a well known vintage Rolex dealer.

He sells watches via his website sheartime.com and single dials via ebay.

The 1655 caseback is wrong and needs to be flattened via machine, which is quite expensive.

Endlinks are the standard 1655 endlinks with cartel folded bracelet and I also have a rivet bracelet,

I traded from a member.

This thread pretty much gives you the info

1675 Akira

Gen insert was used as well

Price depending on parts..............I sourced them myself.

About modding you need to contact RA himself.

I will post a thread when it has arrived

I bought them NOS for less then 75 euro's.

I would say in average the price for a good used insert will be around 50 euro's.

But if you are looking for a vintage 1675 faded insert the price can go up to a 150- 200 euro's

Carpe Diem

Cats

Cats is right

Factory sealed pepsi 16750 inserts are more than $150.....used about $100 sometimes less

Used and faded 1675 pepsi inserts are $150 - 250 if they are really gen....no chlorine faded aftermarket.

Black 1675 insert is about $50-70 less on average

At least those prices are on VRF and some on ebay. Even though a couple of the ebay ones are fake for sure!

Far from 1:1

wrong case, crown, bezel, GMT hand and caseback.

The only improvement is the engraving which nobody sees anyways!

You'd still be needing all the other mods, you needed on the 1655, since it's the 1655 case.

new bezel

new insert

gen dial

new hands

polished round caseback??? WTF.... you need a brushed flattened one

cg shaving

I bet all in all it will still be cheaper to use the 1655 as a converter to 1675.

You will need to re-tap the case, countersink the hole, slightly counterbore the hole, and run the tap through again for the tube to screw in far enough... After tapping you can accomplish the other two carefully with appropriate sized drill bits...

Will send the watch to a top notch guy named FxrAndy to fit the tube

I have to point out that this is an optional step! The only reason I remarked on it in the comparison was because I had never seen a brushed edge on a Daytona bezel before. I have seen many other examples, and I'm pretty sure they had polished edges.

I haven't decided yet about the bezel finish, but I've too seen lots of gen 6263 with a polished bezel...

so maybe I just leave it that way

Thanks for the suggestion though.

Because I got a few questions about the origin and model of this particular watch:

Steve from DW stated on my thread at RWG1.1 that this is the

old-school mystery movement in a V1 case

I believe it's not built this way anymore, but I'm no expert

Cheers

Akira

I just saw this post the first time

Very nice write-up and quite informative.

I was just wondering if there is a good source for a better clasp than the Yuki?

Maybe use the Yuki bracelet and find another clasp could be a good option?

Maybe even a Cartel clasp?

Cheers

Akira

Looks very good mate

Different screwdriver did the job...who would have thought?

So now is there a tutorial how to get in the Yuki tube?

Thanks

Akira

Different screwdriver did the job...who would have thought?

So now is there a tutorial how to get in the Yuki tube?

Thanks

Akira

And here is the update.

After hours of sanding, fitting, sanding, pressing, sanding and fitting again....I managed to make the T21 fit the bezel

Great success for a newbie like myself

The new plexi really is an improvement to DW's...due the process I managed to get some authentic dings and scratches in the plexi So doesn't look that new afterall

Next step is the crown/tube.

Does anyone know if DW's tubes are threaded in?

Cheers

Akira

Since the modern Daytona cases are all wrong....I wouldn't bother with mods or gen parts.

People with knowledge will spot it within seconds, with or without mods

Just buy it and enjoy the watch the way it is.

H-factory PAM005 on my favourite gator strap

Have a great day yourself Val

Hello fellow Daytona lovers

Gen crown, Yuki tube and J&K crystal arrived.

So I thought "Well, what the heck...open it up and take a look."

So I did

Next step. The thing I am afraid of the most Messing up the keyless...

...but I hope not this time

Remove dial and movement from the case

Remove bezel and tropic

J&K tropic looks excellent

So here I am....I need your help

I guess the topic will fit the case plexi ring without mods.

The inner bezelring needs to me sanded a little...ok.

I have no experience in removing and replacing the tube, nor do I have the tools

So which tools would I need?

Or...who can change the tube for me and how much would it cost?

I'm located in Germany

Lemme know what you guys think

Cheers

Akira

Simple, when it comes to SD's it seems that the SSD V2 is the most accurate representation OOB and the one most people modify. I just find the DSSD to bulky for me and I assure you I have spoken to BK/PD about it already and choose the alternate route of the SSD (if I ever find one). I def. wanted something different from my BK/PB Sub that I currently have.

For the rest of the guys thanks for your support and understanding.

It wasn't meant to be offensive....just something to ask yourself.

If you can't tell a cheapie SD from a SSD V2 why do you want the expensive one then?

Just because "people" tell you it's more accurate?

It's like people willing to spend $1k on a WM9, but can't identify it from a $100 sub....

I think they just need to ask themselves if it's worth spending so much more?

Because in the end the watch is for you to admire...

Just my thoughts, sorry if I stepped on anyones toes