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1680

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Posts posted by 1680

  1. @SSTEEL: no not really. You press the hands onto the pivot/stem of the second gear or the pinion of the minute / hour wheel.

    If you can't press the hands down, you probably need to enlarge the diameter of the hole (of the hands) but just a fraction of a millimetre. A drill bit would be to imprecise, so you use a broach.

    If you forced the hands onto the pinions chances are you damage something (pivots, jewel).

    Hope this helps (no, I'm no watchsmith)

    • Like 1
  2. I have to say, you make some excellent points.  Thus, my 3rd choice.  While the 7836x is the correct, non-safety clasp counterpart to the 9315x, I have a MINT 9315 sitting in my safe.  With the correct endlinks (558) for this DJ 160x case, it could be the perfect mash-up for a 40+year old watch.  (I am not a purest, and matching a 783x vs 9315x is a plausible real world scenario).

     

    Hi Ronin,

    totally understand. To be honest I'll do the same and wear my 1016 on a 93150 (78360 with 93150 clasp) I want that extra bit of "safety". And it's not uncommon, when you ordered a Explorer back then it was possible to get it with a Fliplock clasp.

  3. Personally I don't like the 1016-leather combo, doesn't work for me since the Explorer is the pure toolwatch.

    Over all I don't like the 7206 that much and I think I would put a 7836 or 78360 on it. Imho it would be more correct since you have a service dial.

    I would sell the 7206 and get a nice 7836/78360 instead and you have probably a bit money left as well.

    • Like 1
  4. Obviously Gen isn't "the best" it's the standard that is being copied, so, in my humble opinion, Gen being the standard, the only replica close enough to Gen to say pass for Gen is the wm9, all of the other reps aren't even close..that being said, the wm9 is so good that on a side by side to Gen 999 out of a cool thousand ppl can't tell the difference! I'd love for someone to post their TC in this thread..please? Sent from my Windows Phone 8X by HTC using Foroplex

     

    You are right, however the OP didn't ask for the best rep insert ;)

  5. The case arrived with its own tube and crown. Did you know that the 1016 uses a very particular type of crown which is not the same as, say, the 16200's, and that therefore the case too would have to be drilled in order to accept the particular 'gen' tube fitted for this particular 'gen' crown? I did not have the faintest idea...

    Akira did. :)

    attachicon.gifEvernote Camera Roll 20130219 151426.jpg

     

     

    ? The 16030 and 1016 use a 6mm Twinlock crown for a 6mm tube, a 16200 and later use a 6mm crown for a 5,3mm tube, or what do you mean ? It would be new to me that there is a crown that is only used for 1016s.

     

     

    Excellent job, and excellent photo journalism. :tu:

     

    Question for the group, I built mine out of a 1603, so what, if any advantage does a 16200 case hold.

     

    All I did was swap crystal, JMB, and opened the lug holes on the 1603 and added a service dial.

     

    The 1601 has a shallower rehaut, slightly slimmer case and the caseback is too small (1601/16030 50m; 1016 100m -> improved caseback). IMHO the 16200 has the best rehaut and a caseback that is closer to the 1016, however the position of the lugholes are wrong (they should be closer to the tip) and the drop and curve of the 16200 is not like the 1016 (1601 does look better in this point).

     

     

    For the dial problem:

    it is fairly easy to reduce the diameter of the dial by sanding the edge, you don't need a lathe for this. Only be carefull with the brass dust, cover the dial with a good masking tape.

    A few turns on sandpaper the try to fit the dial into the case.

     

    I am excited to see the outcome! Am a 1016 myself ;)

  6. What you need is a 1575 GMT movement; a 1575 is a 1570 COSC movement with date complication (but there are lot of 1575s out there, that are stamped 1570, but technically it is a 1575).

    Do you have a 1575 GMT allready? If not I would think about it twice, they go for +$2.3k here is an example http://www.ebay.de/itm/VINTAGE-ROLEX-26JEWELS-SELF-WINDING-GMT-MOVEMENT-1570-/271157065006?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f2238752e

     

    Do you want to build a 1655 with a sapphire crystal ?

  7. Thank you M, now I'm not sure if I still want to use the service T22 on mine... the dome looks simply gorgeous, I love it!

     

     

    However, I have heard about some resourceful types out there who've been grinding the edges off Clark T22s, so there may still be hope for dome lovers.
     
     

     

    Are you kidding ;)  ?

     

     

    You you pressure tested the explorer?

     

     
     

  8. Forget the case from Natalie, it doesn't even has lugholes and the shape of the lugs isn't correct either, it looks more like a 16220 case (lugs wrong). You could shape it if you spend a lot of time or money on a modder to do it, but for the price...

    You'd better spend the money on a gen 16000 case, which is closer to a 1016.

     

     

    For the dial: if you really want a Space Dweller, take the ingod dial. Very good printing however it isn't 100% correct. Finding a good Explorer dial can be very difficult, Nathalies are to expensive (sometimes you can find a gen dial for that money), the ebay ones from mahand1 are not too bad, yukis are wrong and MBW dials have not the T<25 text.

     

    If you want a normal Explorer or Space Dweller, well ... you decide.

  9. measure the clasp with the coronet....width x length....and tell us what you come up with......there should be seven holes but i have seen six when a clasp has been shortened due to damage on the last holes????Ihope i'm right otherwise someone is making some impressive clasp coronets...

     

    Thats interesting, have you a photo of such a clasp?

     

     

    Z: if you can, please post a pic from the side.

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