1680

Sorry, but I don't believe there is a rep one that fits. But there is a gen one on the bay.

However, I wouldn't use a 16000 case for a 1016.

Case 44mm

Swapping the hands would be the first thing

You need a crown for a 24-6000 or 24-6020 tube.

24-600 it is.

Hm, I can ask him...

I think he simply stole the pictures somewhere on the web, and his German isn't really good...  my tells:

- strange pictures (too good somehow)

- too cheap

- description way too short

- analphabet description

Very nice DJ, like the simpel black dial with the stick markers.

Only thing I would change in the future is the bracelet. The 6251 with rolled links is waaay to old for a sapphire DJ, it belongs to a 1601 or 1675

Specs please? But I guess it's the Cartel 5513 ?

I know nothing about fineDD or Kenny, but maybe just because I'm a Rolex guy. At the moment I'm leaning towards Domi, pictures anyone?

Hello,

can anyone recommend a skilled and reliable relumer in Europe? The job does not require simple reluming of a dial with raised indices that needs to be filled but rather good free hand reluming.

The only person I know is Domi, but I haven't really seen a lot of this work from him and than there is Uwe, but some people told be to be careful of him.

Is there somebody who can do this kind of job or does anyone have experience with Domis reluming and is willing to post pictures of it?

Hope somebody can help.

Greetings

Best handset: TC, no question. Gen hands are not completely falt but a bit rounded, most ETA mercedes hands don't have this detail. Gen Tudor hands are nice as well but if you find some expect them being expensive.

However I have not found a correct 1016 hand set yet, I don't believe there is one.

Personally I don't see any reason to buy a 1570, then a complete gen 1603 would have been cheaper...

Fitting the ETA movement in a gen case shouldn't be that difficult even I could do it for you, for me it sounds like you're having a shitty watchmaker indeed, or maybe he isn't rep friendly.

With pad printing you have the dial that has its black base color, then the white ink is applied with a pad, so the white text is slightly raised and also has a semi glossy appearance. Dials made with decal sheets don't show this detail.

You are right on the Kif, I love them, they are super easy to service, are said to be very good (Rolex used them in the past, still found in the Tudors and other Top Grade ETAs) and look nice.

However I've only had a Kif a few times in a movement, mostly Incabloc.

Contact JMB.

I would never ever buy a rep with a swiss or asian ETA/clone, I would buy the cheapest version and then put real ETAs in it (sourced somewhere else). Why? Because I always get a gen ETA with Incabloc or Kif, I find them a lot easier to service my movements get always a new service and mainspring from me.

It has nothing to do wether it's a gen Rolex or a rep. Speaking of airports; some security guard tell me to put off the watch before I even went through metal detector, some don't.

In fact it is possible to adjust the sensibility of these metal detectors, so some can beep when you have your watch on, some do not.

Can't wait to see them completed!

The only thing I'm still looking for is for reference pictures of gen Explorer with the "Swiss-T<25" being above the minute strokes, not inbetween. Anyone?

To be honest I don't understand the fuss about the aftermarket vs. gen crystals.

I have a gen T22 and two aftermarket T22 (clark and GS), you can see a minor difference between the Clark and the gen, but the GS and the gen look 100% the same there is no difference in clearity.

I have a Clark 135 on my Datejust and had a gen used 135, but I opted for the Clark because it was new and again, no difference in clearity...

A lot of people by used gen crystals, but I don't like this. The used ones are mostly old crystals that are exchanged for a new one whilst service. And plexi crystals are know not to last a lifetime. So why would I mount I crystal that probably doesn't keep my watch waterproof?

With exotic crystals like the 127 tophat, the domed or superdome T22/T19/T39 that's a different story and I'm okay with it!

Never been in this situation.

But I often seen guys on the forum showing off their fantastic build, they tell it is the watch of their life, their ultimate grail, their exit watch and keeper...

and one week later you see the same watch in the trading area.

Sometimes that makes my think: was all the bla-bla before just PR for selling the watch later?

I know, the journey is the destination, but when I build a watch which sometimes takes more than one year, I can never sell it especially because of that story, all the blood and sweat I've put in...

the only reason why I would sell one of my franken watches would be to fund a (the) gen.

Just my 2 cents

The poor fit of its endlinks, which cannot be changed without extensive effort, make it a no-go for me--regardless of cost. 

That's true, however I think that is fixable with a bit (or a lot) of work and some stainless steel. But there is no rep bracelet that has the correct link that connects the bracelet to the springbar.

I wouldn't say the Yuki 7836 is bad, in terms of design I would prefer this one. BUT it is simply overpriced! $200 for a rep bracelet ???  Nah

Hi,

if you want to buy a fluted bezel from eBay make sure it is one that fits a sapphire (16200 later) Datejust. However I would measure the inner diameter of your stock bezel first. Most replica Datejust models are not contructed as the genuine and the replica does not accept a gen sapphire and gen bezel.

You can say that a gen fluted bezel looks ... gen, most aftermarket bezels don't (as simple as that) and white gold will allways reflect light with a pink/orange hue which stainless steel does not. But I wouldn't say that the gen bezels use a complicated design for that purpose...

Changing the bezel isn't very difficult, but wouldn't use a pocket knife. I usually use a thin blade (from a stanley knife) and a caseback opener knife and work my way around the bezel. If your not carefull chances are that you bend the bezel.

The spare part #730 is about £5, the complete balance is £40. So I think replacing just the single part is well worth it, I'd better invest the £35 left in a nice dinner...

Hi,

not my ballance, but exactly this jewel is missing: