Bazz

Hey Relaxman that Hirsch Rally looks great with the holes in the strap matching the subdials.

I am looking at the moment for a black gator for mine, where did you get yours from?

I had no idea how much he was charging, truly shocked.

I was doing some stuff on my 1680 last week and with lots of gen bits (including correct insert) and it cost less than 550.... including the watch.

Thanks, as far as the leather strap goes I think it is from a plastic cow, so it will need to be changed.

I normally like steel diving/sports watches... but there is some thing about the porto I have always liked and I knew once a decent copy came along I would get one, here is some pics

1) Pam 002 (40mm as 44mm cases were not out)

2) EL

3) gave it to my brother

I have not heard of them coming out the front so I would doubt it, mine comes out the back. Maybe its just a little tight?

Maybe just push out the crystal then replace with the cyclops centered, ie does it need to be slightly rotated?

I have knocked off a cyclops and reglued it before... pain in the ass to do

Another great guide By-Tor, you a true asset to the community

@ MacDad22

Thanks for the compliment, as far as the case finishing I used the hand file to shape the crown guards and knock the edge of the lugs. When you drill the lug holes you will have to do a little work around the holes as they become slightly raised from drilling.

I then sanded the case with normal sandpaper, 360 grit from memory. Once I was happy all the low spots or marks were gone I pulled out the dremel, set it to a low rev setting and polish with some polishing compound (red one from dremel).

Thats about all I do and seem to work out ok for me, maybe try slowing down the dremel speed?

Heres some CLICK ME

This weekend I was changing a few parts on my 1680 and thought I would take a few pics along the way.

Heres how it started

and with the new parts

I didn't take any pics of how to take it apart as there are heaps of posts showing how to do it.

Once it was apart I used a file on the crown guards and case edges to round them off a bit, I also drilled out the lug holes, then sanded the case and finally polished it with a dremmel. Note the groove on the top of the case for a gasket... I didn't have a gasket to fit but have some on order (part number 29-325-10)

Comparing the crystals, new one is on the left.

Comparing the inserts

And the tubes,

Unfortunately the gen tube was not a straight swap as on my 1665, so I may need to retap the case not sure yet but it is not installed at the moment.

All back together, ready to go

And a size comparison pic with my 111 for Esteban and other still on the fence:

I was kinda hoping you post some of the negative points!

Great pics again

Great pics Maciek.... Thats one fine piece... so close to getting this!

What ever By-Tor... your wearing a Tudor

1665 for me!

Great post By-tor!

Dremels for me are a no go! Too risky!

Love the Tudor sub I have bought a 1680 pretty much with the intention of changing it at some stage.

That looks great!

Congrats must have been a hard wait!

Great post as always

Good to see they are actively improving designs of the movements.

Starting the week with 007

Pugwash is of course correct, its also a ETA 2836-2.

Sorry, sir, is your Sub LV the new trustytime "perfect" $ 380 ?Thanks for answer, regards

Hey Fellfell, no it was from mbw a couple of years ago.

Maybe a clear dial of some sort?

The first opener I bought was one of the indian ones like Heywood was talking about and it was slightly to small and of pretty poor quality. While looking on ebay for a higher quality set I managed to pick up some old rolex propeller style openers for 50 bucks and they fit perfectly on all my reps. Just dont go too cheap and they should work.

Still loving my latest..... once the crystal arrives the work shall begin!

Yea but what I am saying is its just somethings out of place... its no big deal take it or send it to someone to fix it, I just dont think buying a whole new mov because the keyless works is out is the best solution.

If you do get a new one I suppose I would be willing tto take the other broken POS one.... wont even charge ya

You should not really bother buying a new movement but to fix it now you probably will have to take the dial etc off.