Bazz

@ swdivad

Hurry up with that 196 would ya!

Thanks fellas

I think the strap and dial match up pretty well, but I may still put in a superlumed 111h or 112h dial not sure

Nice one By-tor, I guess it was only a matter of time!

For me,

Some better pics, I am pretty happy with the way its turned out. At some stage though I may change the dial to 112h.

The glue you need can be found here CLICK ME!

You need to use a special glue that will dry clear, also as it set by ultra violet light you can take your time to line it up correctly before exposing it to UV light.

My 007 came with the chinese seagull movement, it ended up with a few problems over time and long story short is that I ended up replacing it with a ETA 2892. I thought it would be a good chance to look at some of the differences as there always seems to be a lot of uncertainty over this movement.

The top picture is the chinese movement.

The easiest way to tell if its a chinese one is is the regulator is riveted where as the eta can be adjusted and removed.

I'm not saying that there is anything wrong with the chinese ones as you very rarely hear of problems but looking at some of the picas of supposed eta 2892 (some are even stamped) they all have riveted regulators. I have never seen a ETA movement with a riveted regulator especially in one of their high end movents such as the 2892.

Im pretty sure most of the mullers advertised with an eta 2892 have the seagull copy movements.

You may be too new to remember, but back in the days when the top of the line PAMs had undecorated movements and dime thin crowns, when we all would have killed for LV's we'd [censored] loudly about today, some of those would have been regarded as cutting edge rarities.

Narikaa's post reminds me how jaded we've become by 98% PAMS and "perfect" rolexes--in a way I think we were more sensible back then--when I wore watches like those I got called out as often as I do when I wear my high end panerais and mullers, which is never, and I blew off a lot more flaws than I do today---and had a far more varied collection as a result.

I deninitely do not miss the days when every chrono was an idiotic day-date, though.

Agreed It was not so long ago that this was the best panerai avaliable (eta 2836)

These are probably the most accurate ones I have. If I had to pick the most accurate out of them, it would be the 007.

Thanks for the nice comments guys, seems to be a common problem thats easily avoidable with the right screw drivers.

I'm not so sure that is a rep. Rolex experts please com forward and confirm...

Have a look at the movement...

LV

Heres a post to try and show what happens when you do happen to push the set lever button to far.

Heres a pic pointing out the part that becomes the problem, the set lever.

This is what the keyless works looks like with the cover removed.

Here I have flipped the set lever over so you can see underneath it. The arrows are to show how it lines up. The middle part goes into the groove of the stem (bottom middle arrow). When you push it through to far from the other side you push the set lever button up out of its hole so the whole set lever is sitting up out of position. This in turn means that the stem can not grip the button part of the set lever meaning the stem will be able to be pushed in or out without engaging the rest of the keyless works.

Hope this helps I know I have done it in the past!

kingkitesurf was determined to do this himself and rather than have him going in blind I just gave some basic instructions.

Heres pretty much the PM that I sent.

Once the dial, hands and hour wheel are off the movement will look like some thing below.

The first thing is to remove the date wheel which is held in by the parts indicated by the red arrows. The spring part shown by the blue arrow needs to be moved towards the centre of the movement, I use a very small screw driver to do this. The date wheel then should be rotated till the teeth line up with the green arrows and it should come out. Because we will be going into the keyless works you probably can just undo the screw between 6 and 7.

Now the date wheel is off it should be similar to this, next is to remove the screw at the red arrow. This piece is also held in at the green arrows and just needs to be moved down in relation to the picture.

The next pic relates to the keyless works, the piece out of place is shown by the white arrow (it will probably be slightly raised). The reason its out of place is because the button on the opposite side of the movement that you pushed to far is on the other side at the red arrow.

Now hopefully you can move this piece very slightly so it drops back in place with out having to remove any more parts as there are a few small bits in the keyless works that have to go together in a particular way.

As you can see in this pic the button has a slot for a reason and thats not to push to far, only use a screw diver that fits in the slot! (ignore the red arrow)

I have had this one for about a year and a half and really like the vintage look to it. They come quite light in colour but age nicely over time also they are pretty thick.

Great job as always

Probably this most of the weekend.

What do you mean...pics!!!

Heres a pic, I use it to pick up the hands as it will not scratch, damage or leave finger prints. Then use a hand setting tool to press in place. This way has worked for me so far with no problems.

You just put the hand in the hollow of the tube with the end sticking out that will be put on the hand stack. I am always worried twezers would leave marks. sorry I dont have any pics of it

I use a cotton bud that has had one side cut off, so it is like a little straw. Makes it very easy to maneuver the hands and leaves no marks.

Glad to hear you got it sorted

im back in iraq now...i will have to follow up on this in about three more months...

I would would be interested to see it if you could once home, thanks.

Some pics to help.

Helps to feather the crown while it unwinds especially if its fully wound.

LV,