2671

Looks superb! Wear it well buddy!

Due to my heavy schedules, I can't show up at the machine shop but talk on the phone. All I could do was to send him a few old experimental cases until I hear something solid. Anyhow, the latest update was something like eccentric tubing... These shots are from my bench this morning, cheers! Dial feet are slightly off comparing to gen pic captured on the bay. Gen 4130 movement owners pls chime in for the same, that'll be great help.

Either using cold (for thicker metal) or laser (thinner) weld to avoid case distortion. The exact recipe of the metal has to be found and tested (i.e. 316F or L) otherwise the filled hole will leave a surface gap between the old and new metal. Finding the right guy plus the time to master the technique could be pricey, the probem with rep cases is they are made of different type of SS... Also, the welded localized area as know as the "heat-affected zone" is extremely hard to drill through. Now my guy is working on something that combines both welding techniques to see if it can apply to our hobby.

I can do it but it's a matter of time. Friend of mine can do the machining and cold welding (moving crown position anywhere you like). I am planning to turn in mine to see if feasible as well. I'll take some measurement next time at the bench.

As we speak, this JF midcase will not house a gen 4130 as per this thread: http://www.repgeek.com/showthread.php?266371-New-Project-Super-Franken-Daytona-116520 However, there may still be a chance to get them to work by moving the crown position up, shave some metal inside the case and shorten the pusher rods. I will dig into that when I have time.

Your welcome. According to TDs' pics, the platinum dial looks sharp indeed. It has a whiter sheen than the previous YM productions, so it's definitely more gen like. I am also a proud owner of Bert's YM for almost a decade and its still my daily beater! Every now and then I come across BNIB 16622 gen 950 dials, either sold too quickly or friends forced me to put into their Sean cases. Nuff said, here's more pics as per request, excuse my apple to orange comparison , plus my second JF 116520 hack-subdial mod says hi

Your welcome, that's what we are here for

I've just received a Noob YM blue dial from GZ. Frankly, nothing really surprises me other than the nice SEL shape and fitment. Typical rep quality. Wrong purple hue on dial, sub par rehaut. The movement is an Asian rep 2824 as known as the Seagull ST2130. It does not employ any stamp or marking on the main bridge where gen or majority rep ETA movements do. The date wheel disappoints me to the max! Noob decided to use the old style non-textured/raised print DW overlay, that's a big no-no! I haven't got to remove the bezel ring and look what's inside, to determine if a genuine crystal would fit. However, the case construction differs from gen or SA3135 cases implies gen/SA/Yuki 3135 may not fit. The crown stem location is more like a WM9 YM or the current TC run, which is 0.5mm lowered than gen or Sean cases. I am guessing Noob factory bought a WM9 or TC YM to being with, then throwing some 6 digit YM elements into the process, now presenting to us the so-called 1:1 true to gen super rep we've been waiting for... I hope the upcoming super SA3135 version will have all the nice gen details were eager to see. Here's some pics of it...

It's time for a litte recap and update on this project. To disable the day date subdials on this JF 116520 Daytona, all you need to do is to remove TWO wheels as shown below. If you know what your doing and don't have a fainted heart, it's a great weekend DIY project for you. Removing the movement from the case is pretty straightforward and I'll skip a thousand words. Dial off, first thing you'll notice is a plate or bridge, being held down by 11 screws! Carefully remove them and get the plate out of your way. Exposed are the day and date wheels, take off the two wheels as shown in my pics. You can also leave the levers there since they don't mean nothing now. A litte dab of epoxy glue on the two wheels to make sure they don't spin when you put the subdial hands back on. Voila, mission completed! Since the movement was out, I spent sometime to sand off the rehaut engraving to a period-correct 2000-2005 year model and shaved off a chunk of metal (from the top) to thin out the thick rehaut. Reshaping the crown guards and polish the SEL on this JF band to my liking. In fact, this band is not that bad compared to the BP band I acquired from my GZ friend, nothing a bit of proper sanding and polish can't fix. The awkward SEL curve to some don't bother me too much cos I have small wrists. The BP band I got was $50 but quality wise don't even come close to any late model TC Sub band, so forget it...

Thanks automatico for sharing, #14 23J white dial is breathtaking, nothing beats gen crystal! I am sure it's the same movement in ours. You also had the RRR engraving removed and sanded rehaut, it really brings it to the next level. Frankly I am not a big fan of the engraving gen or rep, plain jane always looks better to me. This new JF 116520 does not have plastic movement spacer but a metal one. The lug engravings say Steel & 18K Yellow Gold and 116523, I'd expect a 2 tone model to follow. I also have this old Canal Street rep given by a customer laying around, I bet that's the same one you had worked on in your thread. I'll post an update when the new BP band comes in and time to work on the new Nan Ning 3836 (I believe it is) movement. Here's a few pics for reference. P.S. For those who are not familiar with this movement. The one with spring bars is JF's new 116520 with NN3836 movement. The one on the right with white plastic holder is the DG 21J. If anybody has taken one of these apart please write a review, thank you.

IMO TC is a winner straight off the box. You may also wanna keep your eyes opened for a used modded Sean-case 16610 franken in the trade section, price not in the same league though.

TC is the way to go money wise imo. He sells completed watches assembled by himself hence the long wait. They have new revised WM9 dials and bezels, with high grade Asian 2824s regulated per TC generally believed to be a workhouse. Minor problem fitting gen 3135, cos case back thickness and crown tube 0.3mm lower than 3135. BK is a legend builder prior to TC whom hand fitted gen ETA 2824s in old WM9 cases, and were sold as complete watches as todays TC. Made to fit 2824 spec. I don't think BK still market it but you can ask. He's one of the TD in this forum under Watches Clothing & Accessories. Sean used to sell case kits not complete watches. Sean cases are true 1:1 copy of 16610 Submariner and 16622 YM cases. Came with dial, hands, mounting hardwares and band less movement. Gen 3135, Yuki or SA3135 will fit. Bezel dial (non superlume) and band are typical rep standard but buyers most likely go for gen bezel/dial or TC band on his 16610 cases. They are all sold out to the best of my knowledge, they show up and the trading section once in a while, grab when you can cos they go fast. Great candidate for full blown franken! Hope this help.

As memory serves, I've read on Repgeek that someone has started a franken WIP. Gen dial on gen 4130 fits in case but leaves a gap below the rehaut, crown stem won't line up since crown hole being too low. I bet gen dial won't fit NN3836 movement without cutting dial feet. Perform a search, available at few TDs

People been frankening long time ago... Back in the 90's Taiwan had already mastered the techniques producing true 1:1 two tone Jubliees with solid 18K center link, 0.6mm in thickness, round inner corner as per gen. Its been over 30 years rep making in Hong Kong when gold Presidential models were hot cakes, you could literally walk into any gold smith ask for 18K 18238 cases made... Hence the reason why brand new Datejust cases are all over the places for sale? One can still spot one or two every now and then on the bay...

J12 Factory, made their first bucket of gold by repping the Chanel Ceramics.

Congratulations! From what I have seen, the white dial has a proper space between Subdial 6 and 6 o'clock marker, so more accurate. My friend told me the BP band is a bit flimsy compared to new Noob Sub band, anyways let's see...

I have made a few shots comparing the JF new 116520 to my Gen. It is amazingly close to the real deal. The crown guard reshaping suggest by a few fellas is a must compare to other minor discrepancies. The rehaut sanding and RRR removing is good if you have the skill to DIY due to wrong font and satin finish. The crown sits a bit low I would say about 1.0mm compared to gen, it don't look that bad in reality but it's there when you know what to look for. The bezel font and thickness seem fine to me, switching to 7750 bezel is a bit overdosed. The gen tips the scale at 12.7 vs the rep 12.85 with the same protective film (from JF factory) stuck to caseback, to me it's dead on. For those who still anal about this can either shave the crystal gasket or the case back down 0.1mm... What amazes me is the overall fit and finish, it really screams gen, unlike Noob factory the new JFs don't have sharp edges anywhere on the watch head, it's a huge step forward in the rep world. The SEL is rubbish while the clasp is 90% on the outside 50% inside, quality wise. That said I have a BP band ordered from a friend of mine who lives in GZ, yet to receive and I'll post an update when it gets in. I'll freeze the 3 & 9 Subdials when I have time to fiddle with it, it bothers me a bit for daily reset and I dun wanna pay for new crown and tube set every few months down the road... Enjoy the pics!

Will do, thanks.

Hello Y3135 owners, I tried to get a hold of Yuki to purchase a Y3135, just wonder how well he answers emails or PMs, did both for 2 days, not a word yet. Or it's there other ways to contact him, please advise, thanks.

If adding spacers to fill, it/they have to be solid/metal, or it gives that spongy feel when snapping and rubber gasket or o-ring thin out over time, not good in the long run. You have a correct crown. It could be caused by a shorten lever itself at the roller end... Replacing the crown guard unit is the best solution to your problem.

The DWO you have is opened 6 & 9 or closed as per newer version/bold font?

V6 Factory has the best 33mm w/ETA movt.

Could you snap a shot on the clasp? Seems like a really nice aftermarket band!

+ $$$$ for gen dial and $$$ gen hands... Plus $$$ to remove the 3, redo engraving to 0 (16520), viola!

A&F Borel Girard Perregaux Jaeger Lecoultre Ollech & wajs Universal Geneve