correctime

I'd use a Bracelet but with better fitting end pieces.

It looks to me like a good used gen  tritium 16610 dial

It's not an LV dial though...

16610LV's came with luminova and use the maxi-dial (much larger markers and fatter hands.)

Wow.......that's all that comes to mind....totally friggin' wow.

I wish!  Multip

 

 

I wish!  Multiply that model number by 1.1862068965517241379310344827586 and you'll get the real model number.

Ahh...it's a 6536 ....duh!!

Actually being able to wind a automatic movt that many times is a good thing, it means that its lubed correctly and the mainspring is sliping when it reaches its fully wound. It not running after winding that many times is the problem. 

I agree.

It's winding well and slipping to prevent overwinding so that's a good thing.

It's winding, setting the date/time and hacking as it should (or at least it was hacking when it was running) so I'm not so sure it's a keyless issue either.

The fact that he's witnessed an active hairspring to the equavilant of at least 30 secs running time and the seconds hand hasn't moved at all is an issue though.

Thanks for all the helpful input guys.....I'm certain the OP really appreciates it

I can't say whether or not the watch has been dropped....I can say it wasn't dropped while I had it.

I'm not the owner of this watch. I installed the gen crystal and insert for him.

Whether or not it had issues when he received it from TC isn't known.

It was sent to me for gen parts the day after he received it.

I rolled through the dates to check the DWO alignment before pressing an AR'd crystal on..(DWO alignment was impressive....perfect)

It was setting and running when I shipped it back though I have no idea if it was running correctly...I had no reason to observe that as this issue wasn't known or mentioned.

I've felt "fudged" keyless before as I've tripped the keyless on the 2836-2 GMT more than once

(something about those keyless works seems to make them sensitive....the 3rd time tripping them required my having to send it off.....   )

I'm sure with skill using a dremel and skill in polishings methods it's an easy fix.....I've never attempted that sort of case work.

I've been through the "case too wide" issue with the 16570's

Having gotten accustomed to the older legendary "NoobFactory" Exp.II's the case protuding past the bezel looks all wrong and hideous to me.

I couldn't handle wearing one that's obviously too wide like that.

But that's something that'll have to be corrected if I don't use a case from ingod or others.

(thanks to denimhead and the search button I'm gathering some good do's and don'ts intel on the 1655 builds.)

I'll really have to decide exacly what it is I'm after with a 1655 build...they seem complex and it looks as though they can get costly...real quick.

I've been talking with ykim88 regarding this issue. 

First sign of an issue was the watch would quit  running shortly after screwing the crown in but would continue to run in the winding position.

Most likely the stem was too long or unknowingly had started to unscrew from the crown.

The stem was shortened and now has the minor issue of the crown trying to grab the tube when winding.

Most likely the stem is now a tad too short but the watch ran all day in the locked position (all the way screwed in)

Sometime after that the watch stopped running.

He's opened up the back and gently tried to "bump start" the hair spring...it'll run for 2 or 3 seconds and stop.

This has been done several times with the stem in and the stem removed from the mvt. in the winding position (to prevent it from hacking)

A little tapping of the watch with the stem out to perhaps allow a seconds hands gear to possibly mesh with the idler cog between the canon and seconds hand.....?? justa guess.

(I'm sure my terminology of gears/mvt. parts is wrong....I know what's in there but I don't know what everything is called and certainly don't how to fix it   )

It's doing the same thing with the stem in and out of the mvt. .....running 2-3 seconds...slowing down, then stopping.

The stem went back in (with no keyless issues) and he's given it a few more tries.....still the same...runs a few seconds....slows down and stops.

What concerns me and may better help diagnose the problem is that the seconds hands hasn't moved with all the little 2-3 secs of running.

He's witnessed the watch running (hairspring doing it's thing) 2-3 secs at a time yet the seconds hand doesn't seem to be advancing at all.

I know there's a very fine little cog, sprocket, gear (whatever it's called) that rides between the hairspring and the drive gear for the seconds hand transfering the power from the hairspring to the seconds hand......possibly in a bind or dislodged.......??

I've recommended he send it to Katt for an overhaul as he plans to keep it and as has been mentioned it's worth the effort/cost to have a mvt. serviced in the beginning.

I'd like to know what exactly happens (what's put in a bind) when a stem is too long that it causes the watch to stop running immediately or shortly after locking the crown. 

The 168000 proceeded the 16800 shortly before the transition to the 16610.

I don't believe the 168000 came with the matte finish dial....unless of course it's the WG ringed markers and glossy gone matte finish.

I believe the only difference in the 16800 and 168000 is that the 16800 came in 316 SS whereas the 168000 used the 904 SS

No wonder the first one..."simplicity at it's finest" caught my eye.

WOW....a gen 5510 "James Bond"... that's a very nice $ub

Geez...and a few months back I srapped a nice 703 crown because it had the stem broke off in it.

'bout time you showed your face over here more,  Rob.

The knowledge and technical data/info paired with the experience and skill many of these guys have is awesome.

And the atmosphere here is less than snobbish....many of the guys here that  "know the know" are more than welcome to share and steer you in the best direction

Many of these guys play for keeps...they do it "right"....and the quality/acurracy of some of their builds scream quality, pride and passion.

It was "here" that I got my push of the cliff and running forward on an awesome 16800 build.

You're gonna be glad ya went for a 16800 when it's over....I guarantee it.

Regarding the Y3135 in a 3035 case.....as has been stated...it'll work but not without a bit of effort.

(I've only been told this by Ephry and Fidhle007....I've never done it)

But I have a question about the mounting screws being too tall to clear the case groove.

Would it be possible (and perhaps a bit easier) to remove the mounting screws from the mvt.

 and drill a small countersink allowing the screws to screw down far enough to clear the top of the case groove.

I've not handled a Yuki 3135 yet but surely the threads in the mvt.base go all the way through the hole....?

They do on a Cal.3035 mvt.

Anyway....glad to see ya here "Row-Bear-Tow"....and seeing HOW over here with his expertise and skill would be awesome too

Very cool trick.

Thanks for asking and sharing.

buffedupboy: my apologies for getting "side-tracked" on your Thread Brother.

IMHO a gen insert (aside from what's been posted here regarding LV inserts) is the best way to go.

Though as already stated, the gen LV inserts aren't the cheapest inserts to use but they just don't come any better 

Mitch....I forgot I snapped a pic for the owner of the TC LV after installing the AR'd crystal and insert for him.

There seems to be variations in the TC v2 DWO's or they're being installed mis-aligned because Brother...I tell ya the date on this one is aligned and centered through all 31 days..........................

Mitch...the owner of the TC LV I did the crystal and insert for seems to be having stem lenth issues so no pics yet.

But prior to pressing on the gen AR'd crystal for him I rotated through all 31 days to check for alignment of the DW...knowing the gen crystal would magnify mis-alignment.

That one he has had all 31 days darn near perfectly centered and aligned and that was looking at it with 10x magnification.

I have to assume it had the TC v2 DW in it but who knows....there seems to be variations in the TC DWO's or some have been installed off center.

chibiunko....no...the 2004-07's wouldn't have came with the AR'd crystal. Mitch is right...if you wanna go gen crystal and date era correct is an issue the standard is the way to go.

But the AR'd version is an incredible upgrade and it really "works".

The 16800's of 1986 would have had a 2mm pre-LEC sapphire but I used the AR'd version because it's clarity, paired with the larger vintage font is what I "wanted"..........

I can actually see my date from any angle on the wrist.

Welcome aboard.

We all gotta start somewhere....and god knows many here have saved me weeks of searcing by sharing their hard-found knowledge and expertise.

41mm SS DJ.

You could start by searching the offerings of the Trusted Dealers.

In the meantime, have a look here....................

http://www.1-pc8838.com/rolex-datejust-oversize-41mm-c-55_307.html

I've handled the Blue dialed Fluted bezel version (3rd one down on the page) and it's an awesome rep.

Just a bit too "bling bling" to suit me

Looks great but that's an oyster bracelet ;-) Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

That's sorta what I was thinking.

The 62510H looks alot different I thought

Wow.....AWESOME !! (show-off   )

....when ya gonna break out the arsenal of other high end pieces I know you're packin' brother....?

That looks like a Beauty..... is that wrist shot mounted on a New Jubi ??

I was about to say the owner of the TC LV I just dropped a gen AR'd crystal and insert in would be able to help you out but the insert wasn't the LV.....

I'm sure he won't mind posting pics but I'm not even sure it arrived to him with a TC LV insert....the bezel was empty when it reached me.....but those gen AR'd crystals make a world of difference and an upgrade well worth every penny imho 

Thanks Brother.

Is it me or does the case stick out past the bezel......?

If it's just me (or the pics) and it's not out past the bezel edges  I'd be VERY pleased with one like yours.

That looks Awesome !!.

Thanks for that Brother.

And where did that one originate ??

Is it just me or does the case on the current PC offering of the 1655 look a bit too wide where it meets the outer edge of the bezel....??

http://www.1-pc8838.com/00rlex00101-vintage-explorer-1655-ssss-swiss-2836-p-9165.html

At the spa.....that piece looks totally awesome as pictured.

Mr. Nanuq....enough please already....you're killin' me...THAT'S SUH---WEET !!

If I may, what is the breakdown on the builds of these 2 beauties you have ??