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By-Tor

Diamond Member
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Posts posted by By-Tor

  1. That's the oldest trick in the book: Take a genuine picture of a watch, steal people's money... and don't ship anything. All pictures on that site are of genuines.

    I seriously doubt there's an actual replica of that watch available. I doubt that site even sells watches... it looks like 100% scam/phishing site to me.

  2. You are assuming that rep makers use any logic in what they choose to produce. We still can't get a 1:1 Submariner, but I have seen reps of low end Seiko and Citizen watches.

    A7750 is still the most expensive movement for them to produce.

    There are $20-$35 cheap "street junk" reps of almost all brands, but none of the cheap reps have the A7750 inside. They might not have much logic in their releases, but they're not completely braindead. Who would buy a 7750-powered Hamilton rep for $300 - $350?

  3. $10 on that BT will add a reply here ;)

    Let's put it this way: I know many professional lifters who don't use any supplements at all (besides steroids and protein powder). 99% of that stuff is a complete waste of money.

    If your diet is well balanced you won't need any supplements (besides extra protein). If you're not eating fish, maybe some Omega fatty acids can be beneficial. The usual mistake in people's diets is that they don't eat enough (good) fat.

    I'm getting a headache when I look at some of the laughable sh*t they're selling. "Essential Amino Acids Supplement"... puh-leeze!

    There are no shortcuts. Snake oil won't make the muscle grow, just like there are no "Swiss Zenith Daytonas" for $300. :D

  4. In all fairness, the movement is reliable if you get lucky (and don't play with the independent hour hand too much), it's more like "hit and miss", really. My chs ExpII rep is now 3 years old... works 100% perfectly without any issues.

    But then again... I've heard some bad reports from these new ones, that they're completely dying. Never heard of the old chs movements dying. If they had problems, they all just had the notorious loose hour hand issue.

  5. I've owned plenty of GMT and ExpII replicas since early 2005... and I still don't care which hand stack version I'm wearing, really... it's not a huge issue for me, and I agree it's not easy to detect. Unless, of course, you hand over your watch to someone who's familiar with the Rolex caliber 3185.

    The thing that's much more important for me is the shape and correct thickness of the GMT hand.

    Correct hand stack... well yeah it's nice but not a deal killer (for me). To each their own.

  6. Hi!

    I was nicely surprised when I saw a jiffy bag in my postbox today. Inside was my black Seamaster from PT :)

    I must say I'm totally happy with that one: The hands seem to be long enough and the bezel is correctly aligned. Everything works as it's supposed to be.

    I took a few pics, let me know what you think:

    p10100963uu.th.jpgp10100993oj.th.jpgp10101005ut.th.jpg

    p10101055tz.th.jpgp10101067pt.th.jpg

    Two more pics with her orange sister:

    p10101074ib.th.jpgp10101106by.th.jpg

    I'd say if you're into Omega or diving watches, this is one of those you should own. In fact I'd rather buy that one before buying a black Sub. It's a quite good replica, maybe even one of the best ones available. Get one ;)

    Cheers,

    bricky

  7. OK so im new around here but im just like you, IM CRAZY ABOUT WATCHES!!! Not just replica watches but all watches in general. I cant explain it but they just make me go ooohhhhh , ahhhhhhhh when im looking at them.

    Anyway, I have an Omega Speedmaster Moon watch black face with Venus Copy movement. I thought it was the dogs bollocks until I came to this forum. I realised that the watch had several flaws. One main flaw was the 6 oclock subdial. I knew that the spacing wasnt correct but thats something we just have to live with, however the 6 oclock subdial functioning as a '12 hour indicator'??? whats that all about??. I read Ziggys review of the Venus movement and asked a few questions as to how you can 'freeze' or 'Kill' this, so as the 6 oclock subdial hand would point at the 12 oclock position and so look more like the original.

    The forum was really helpful and I got an answer in no time at all. One person suggested removing the 'intermediate wheel' and gluing the subdial gear another said just put a blob of glue on the hand and stick it in the 12 oclock position.

    Well after a few more reads and thinking about the difficulty of this job and decided to tackle it myself. NOTE: Im not a watchmaker nor do I have any experience in watchmaking. Its only a recent hobbie for me and so I really dont have any watch skills - YET!!. Due to this lack of experience I encountered several problems and what should have been a 30 min job turned into a 2 hour job!!!!. Having said that I completed the job to my satisfaction.

    OK so enough talking ill go through what i did if you want to try it yourself.

    First off youll need tools. I bought mine from Ebay, cheap and actually not bad in my opinion.

    DSCF0065.jpg

    Ok so first things first, I didnt take photos of opening the watch and removing the movement from the case and removing the crown/stem. This is all very straight forward. BUT please remember to WIND DOWN to watch so as to remove the tension on the mainspring.

    OK so the watch is now removed from the case and now its ready to remove the hands.

    Hands now removed. I used the presto hand remover. NOTE please be very careful as this tool can easily mark the dial!!!.

    DSCF0023.jpg

    Next its time to remove the dial. 2 screws on the side. I didnt unscrew completely, just enough to get the dial off.

    DSCF0024.jpg

    Ok now the dial side view with a nice plate showing what the subdials do. Remove this. In the above photo ive already removed the screws.

    DSCF0027.jpg

    Here we see the intermediate gear and the 6 oclock subdial gear.

    Next step, simply remove the intemediate gear, it will come off very easily.

    DSCF0028.jpg

    DSCF0031.jpg

    Next remove the 6 oclock sub dial gear. It will also come off very easily.

    DSCF0032.jpg

    Ok so both gears removed now we have to fix the 6 oclock sub dial in place. Someone recommended glue but I just didnt want to use glue on a watch so I opted for double sided tape. Safe, easy to use and no possibility of damaging the watch.

    I cut a small piece and stuck in over the 6 oclock sub dial hole. I also used my tweezers to punch a hole in the tape for the 6 oclock sub dial gear to fit in place.

    DSCF0036.jpg

    Now remove the top layer of the tape and put on the 6 oclock sub dial gear. I pressed quite hard at this point for about 2 mins as i wanted the gear to really stick.

    DSCF0039.jpg

    I then put another piece of double sided tape on top of the gear so as it would stick to the underside of the metal plate covering the dial.

    DSCF0040.jpg

    DSCF0043.jpg

    Ok now its time to reassemble!!!. The fun begins. The easiest part is now over.

    Put the dial plate back on and tighten the screws, 3 of them

    DSCF0047.jpg

    Now place the dial back on and dont forget to tighten the screws, 2 of them

    DSCF0048.jpg

    Now put the subdial hand back on and carefully align it at the 12 oclock position.

    DSCF0051.jpg

    I have a major problem when its comes to watches. I need everything to be perfect!!!!!. Heres a photo from my Loupe. I want this baby dead centered at the 12 oclock postion.

    DSCF0052.jpg

    Do the same for the rest of the subdial hands. Easy

    DSCF0053.jpg

    DSCF0056.jpg

    DSCF0057.jpg

    Ok next you need to put the hour hand back on. Now this is where my inexperience comes in!!!. The next photo shows the hour hand back in place but I pushed in right against the dial by mistake. ooops

    DSCF0060.jpg

    This was a pain in the ass to get off and I slightly marked the dial but just only slightly. thankfully it isnt that noticeable when i wear the watch.

    So put the hour hand back on using a hand press and then the minute hand, make sure they are correctly aligned. Finally put the chrono second hand on and align at the 12 oclock position.

    The chrono hand gave me some problems as I thought I had it on correctly but when I started the chrono and reset it, the chrono hand didnt reset to 12 oclock - It was slipping. I realised that I wasnt on correctly. When it was put on correctly it make a small clicking sound. Start, stop and reset no problems now.

    So put the movment back in the case. Dont FORGET to use the dust blower to remove any dust. Crown back in, scew on the back and your done.

    DSCF0063.jpg

    Hope you find this helpful. Its taken me a long time to do this. I would be a great help if other people who have carried out modifications could post them for the rest of us to see.

    Thanks and ENJOY :D

  8. This is a repost of Bazz's original pictorial at TRC. Thanks Bazz for this great and informative post!

    I got this one about a year ago from abay one of the "solid gold" ones :unsure: , anyway it was for my father as gold is really not my thing. Over all its a very nice and accurate rep with cool starburst type texture on the dial which is really difficult to get in the pics. :cheers:

    trc14ho.jpg

    trc35gx.jpg

    trc48hn.jpg

    trc26dy.jpg

  9. REPOST: OldeCrow's review of Omega Aqua Terra.

    I wanted to repost them here as they contain valuable information. TRC has been a "invite only" board for a while, so the links in my Omega Guide are difficult to read for the new members. Thanks OldeCrow for this splendid review!

    BEGIN REPOST OLDECROW'S ARTICLE:

    ===============================

    Well if you've been keeping track of my Rep purchases I've been keeping a running post in dealer reviews.

    Now its time to spend some time talking about the watches!

    First on the list is the one that took the longest and I wanted the most!

    The Aqua Terra 2892 from Eddielee!

    It was the second package shipped from him in a two watch order and it took too long to begin with and arrived broke so I had to send it back for another so I've been waiting a whole month to get this damn thing!!

    The black pieces lying on the table are the remains of the hard plastic jewelry box that the watch shipped in.

    The absence of any padding is a clue as to why I had to send the first one back.

    This time the box somehow took all that damage and the watch was fine. Its' a fair trade, I prefer the box broke instead of the watch! :D

    76508eb7.jpg

    First impressions are the most important, I was ecstatic that it just arrived and was working! After a thorough case and bracelet cleaning/polishing I greased the case back gasket and crown tube gasket assembled and photographed.

    hmm.. something isn't quite right here:

    37e5199a.jpg

    After opening up the case again and investigating the applied markers I discovered that they were really just laying there with basically nothing more holding them in place than the tension from a little watch oil. With the applied markers wiped off the rotor and a closer look for the missing letter which I could not find (I brushed out the case when I first opened it so its possible that I removed it then) I closed it back up again.

    e0a2441b.jpg

    It's running just a bit fast but I would be more worried if it was running slow.

    Big thumbs up for these 2892 AquaTerras!

    I don't know how people without WIS skills survive these half finished halfwit replicas without being able to finish them your selves but with the cleanup and finishwork out of the way its a very nice watch and worth the wait!

    d96603e5.jpg

    4c6cea2b.jpg

    d027ab19.jpg

    spec's

    Size aprox 40.5mm from 2 to 8 oclock

    20mm lugs

    ETA 2892

  10. Have they solved the rehaut issues from past rolexes or does it look conical.

    I believe the GMTIIc comes from the Noob factory. Rolexes from that factory have never been conical. The rehaut on this rep is excellent (including the thickness). The only thing that they screwed up is the non-symmetric rehaut engraving.

  11. Omega is stupid to put out all those "special edition" models. They created a classic with the original Bond Seamaster, so why fix something that ain't broken?

    I don't like it, either. It's not a bad looking watch, but just an useless "duplicate" model, which doesn't look as good as the original. So the big question here is "why"?

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