Datlore001

Gen Bond at the office, faded insert and seconds hand all the way.

Now if only we had a good source for cases.

Thanks for the tip. I may pick that one up, but it's chipped on the edge.

Ok, just got this Seamaster GMT rep and I want to mod it. First thing is changing the horrendous crystal. I don't want to spend the money on a gen crystal or a Clark's ($77). Others have used mineral crystals, but I can't seem to figure out what size or where to get one. Can someone provide some info, maybe an Ebay auction, for the proper crystal? Thanks in advance.

Yep, you could just remove the day wheel if you wanted.

Depends. As stated previously, a 2824 is not ideal for this project due to potential long-term (or even short-term) stem height issues. If the 2836 is new and/or recently serviced, I would definitely go for that. Otherwise, I would take a new 2828 shipped from Ofrei over a used, unknown service history 2836. Heck, you may have to spend $100 out of the gate on a service for a used movement.

You can either sell your 21j watch as a whole watch and rebuy with the A2836 or buy a movement. My suggestion is to buy the 2828 from Ofrei (which appears to be 21.6k, after all) or a 2846 new on Ebay. The 2828 would be my choice as I believe it is a bit better movement than the 2846. Either one should work for you.

I bought a rep Omega deployant on Ebay the other day for something like $35. I think they all sold, though. My two cents would be to go with a Hirsch strap and Hirsch deployant if you can't find an Omega rep, or try to locate a rep Omega deployant and put it on a Hirsch strap. Not sure if a 19mm strap will use an 18mm deployant like the 20mm strap, though.

This is worth noting. The simplest way to get a decent Tudor snowflake up and running is by purchasing (1) the Josh 5512 case with the A2836; (2) buying a Yuki 2824 dial and dropping it onto the A2836 (assuming the A2836 has a datewheel installed); and (3) swapping the crystal (T19 for no date dials, Cyclops 125 for date dials). Obviously you'll still have the hideous crown, but it's the easiest way to go, and there'll be no messing with stem cutting etc. That said, as horn34 has a Josh case already (presumably with DG2813) and assuming he is not interested in waiting to purchase another Josh with A2836, he should consider either the 2846, 2828, or searching for a 2836 on Ebay. I've been lucky and picked up two serviced 2836s recently for less than $100.

They do. I didn't intend to convey otherwise. They do not share the same stem height, though.

Yes. Your options are a 2846 (21.6k - $99 on Ebay) or the 2828 which Ofrei offers ($99 - 28.8k). The 2828 appears to have the same stem height as the 2836/2846, same size, and like the others, includes an unnecessary day wheel. You could also scour Ebay for a 2836 or a Sellita SW220. Some people use a 2824 in their Josh cases, but I believe the 2824 has the wrong stem height. However, the 2824 will work with your dial, as will the Sellita SW200 or the Seagull ST2130. Edit: I noticed that Ofrei lists the 2828 at 21.6k. This contradicts what Ranfft says, so I don't know which is correct.

Did you order directly from Yuki? If so, you should be able to look at your order and see if you went for the 278x dial or the 28xx dial. If not, try to compare to the images above. As for swapping the dial, if your 5513 has the Asian 21j movement, NOT the Asian 2836, then you cannot do a straight swap. The ETA dials will not fit the Asian 21j movement.

It can be tough to tell without knowing where your dial came from. Yuki gives you options. Late subs may have used 2824s (though I think this may only apply to generations after the 94x1 - hopefully someone else can confirm), but for the most part if your dial is a gen Tudor 94x1 then it would have 278x feet. However, here are some photos of Tudor dials to illustrate the differences: This is a Tudor date dial, which while 1mm larger than a 94x1 dial, should have similar date window/feet placement. Because of the applied markers, you can tell where the feet are in relation to the 3 o'clock day window. Here, you see that marker above the date window is closer to midway between 10 and 15, thus making it 12/42. This dial will fit a 28xx movement. This one has the 11/41 placement, as you can see the foot is just below the 10 marker. It'll fit a 27xx movement. It is my understanding that the 5513's with the Asian 21j movement has the datewheel still under the dial. However, this is of no use to you if you are planning to replace the movement.

It's only cheaper if you buy the Josh 5513 with it already installed. Otherwise, I don't know where you could buy an Asian 2836, and the Swiss 2836 is definitely more expensive. Edited to add: does your Tudor dial have feet for the 278x movements or the 28xx movements? This is important to know. If 278x, your best choice is the 2783 from Ofrei; if 28xx, your cheapest solution without buying a new Swiss 2836 would be the 2846 (21.6k, so low beat) which can routinely be found for around $100 on Ebay.

Nothing wrong with the A2836 route, just make sure your dial has the right feet. Dials with 2784 dial feet (around 11/41) will not fit dials with 28xx feet (around 12/42). All three of my 94x1 dials are made for the 278x movements. Right now I'm building one with a 2770 no-date movement and one with a 2783. As Tudor did use the 2783 in some 9411s, it works for me!

It's a real shame, because I'd love to get his 7032 case. But alas, it appears he's willing to communicate until he gets yours money; then, no more.

As far as I know, Tudor used both the 2783 (21.6k) and 2784 (28.8k) in the 9401s and 9411s. Thus, either movement should be correct. Ofrei sells new 2783s for $96. Alternatively, you could use a 2846 (generally around $100 new on Ebay) for a 21.6k beat rate, or a 2836 for 28.8k. I would not use the 2824 in the Josh case, as it is my understanding that the 2824's stem height could cause problems.

Nice. :-) I'm still searching for a similar DW, though I have managed to find a brushed silver roulette DW. My 'flake date project may become a 7021.

That brushed silver datewheel is gorgeous, Linesiders (the rest of the watch is too, of course).

Thanks guys, very good pictures. I'm hopeful these will allow others to evaluate their 'flake dial options.

cyphion, take a look at my thread 'Comparison of 9401/9411 dials.' I posted pictures of the Ebay dial beside a Yuki and gen service dial for comparison.

I've got a couple of Tudor dials sitting around waiting for homes, so I thought I'd take some photos for the inquisitive types. Maybe this'll help someone. Anyway, left dial is a gen Tudor 9401 service dial. Middle is a Yuki blue 9401 dial with yellow markers. Right is a Tudor 9411 dial bought off Ebay from seller mahand1. (Note about the seller: I originally purchased this dial about a month and a half ago. USPS tore the envelope in shipment and the dial didn't make it to me. The seller offered me a refund, but upon probing he told me that he would likely get more in about six weeks. I chose to wait for the dial. The seller was prompt and communicative.) The Yuki and Ebay dials are pretty similar, though it appears less care was taken to refinish the edges of the Ebay dial. In my opinion, either is a good option.

If that's the case - yes.

Right. It could be that simple. Someone needs to confirm, though. And you have to be careful where you order your DWs from - I've ordered a couple from vacheron_nl and they've been good, maybe even gen (or at least as far as I can tell) while the ones from wholesaleoutlet990 are garbage.

Actually, yes. This makes the most sense, at least to me. This way you won't have to worry about swapping the crown to a new stem, plus the Asian 2836 is a cheaper upgrade than a brand new movement from Ofrei. Also, I am not sure if the Asian 2836-powered Josh 5512 has a date mechanism installed. Perhaps someone else can chime in on that. That may affect your decision - You would need to build a no-date snowflake (9401) and use a Tropic 19 crystal.