mymanmatt

In order for an eta to fit it, you will have to cut the movement ring down, its a little to fat for the1500 case. Depending on the year of you case, you will have to use a 2824-2 or a 2846 old style. Probably 2824-2 because it is hacking and high beat. If you are using a gen dial, ck your overlay before you do anything, I don't think it will line up with your dial date window. I don't think I have ever seen an overlay for a 1500 series dial, but I could be wrong. good luck

It's just the picture, dial feet are there. So the dial and bezel and insert are proper for a 16610 early model? We were thinking only a 16800

100% genuine, no doubt. Question is ,16610 16800 or something else. best pics at this time. Not trying to sell, just determine what they are for.

also, do they got together, or are they for 2 completly different watches.

The one thing I know for sure is that these are genuine. The dial is not great, but ok, the bezel is a bit worn and the insert looks pretty good. My friend and I cannot determine for sure what they are for. On the back of the dial are the numbers 21 with a space and then the numbers 1311 below that are the numbers 0823. The insert presses into the bezel, it is not glued in. Thanks for the help The pearl glows slightly, the dial does not

I've been building and servicing rep watches for 25 years. I have seen the rep watch quality go from extremly poor to astonishing. Along the way I have encountered nearly every problem you can imagine. Here are some tips to help you with your build. Keep in mind there are dozens of cases of each model, and none of them are the same. These are a couple of things to look for during your build that apply to any watch anywhere. First, it is critical that the stem, when the movement is mounted in the case, is dead center, "and I mean dead center", of the case tube. By doing that you can ensure your movement will give you long, trouble free service. Second, be sure your movement mounting ring fits your case properly, no side to side movement. Third, be sure you have proper clearance under the crystal for your sweep second. hand. Fourth, before installing your date wheel overlay, mount you dial on the movement to make sure your date window is aligned with the number on the stock date wheel. If not, adjust you dial to align properly so it will have the proper bulls eye when finished. Fifth, mark you overlay with a small black dot on the center of any number you choose, at the outer edge of the overlay. Then align the black dot with the center of the stem as you attach it to the movement. When aligning the overlay, try not to move it backwards, as this will sometimes move the stock date wheel out of position, causing misaligment during normal operation. These are just a couple of tips to help along with your build. As we all know there are dozens of things to look for when building a watch. If you have any questions during your build pm me and I will try to help. Good luck to you all

I have 2. The older style with the rather flat end pieces and the later style with the rather curved end pieces. They both have 2836-2 eta movements. My email is matthew.wright@sbcglobal.net

The tension spring does not keep it from wobbling. Make sure your steel bezel is not up on 1 side. Sometimes they fail to be pressed down evenly all the way around, You should certainly ck that to make sure. Even the slightest bit up on one side of the steel bezel will cause a wobble. Beyond that, who knows

No that won't help, the baseplate is different, that's what affects the stem position

As you may or may not know, I build watches. If this watch looks as good in person as in the pics, I am very Impressed. That is how a vintage rep should look after the build is completed. I relly like clarks crystal, perfect for that watch. Two thumbs up on this one

I must say that even with the stem height being off. .005 is not acceptable. I don't know if it's up or down .005 but you need to correct it. If it's down and you have the room to use a thinner dial spacer, do that. If it's up try a thicker dial spacer. The stem must be dead center of the case tube to insure trouble free service from your movement. Even if you don't have problems in the begining, it will be just a matter of time before problems occur with the operation of your watch. Hope this helps, and good luck

Everyone has avoided the obvious. It's quite possible the bezel was bent during removal. Remove it and lay it on a flat surface, it it wobbles that is your problem, seen it happen before. Even without the tension spring, it should rotate evenly. The tension spring keeps the bezel at the proper height to avoid draging on the case. Hope this helps and good luck.

Have you cked your steel bezel to make sure it is level all the way around, good luck

I always place a small drop of oil on the yoke and yoke corrector when I service an eta. That very very small drop will find its way to the stem, do not be concerned, it will eventually disappear and cause no harm.

Arthur, I'll call you today around mid morning and we'll discuss those issues you emailed me about, and also a remedy for this one.

Hey authur, there are actually a couple of different calender wheels, ( date wheels) for that model. They changed position over the years and became more consistant over the past 20 years. If the zigmeister put it together like that,shame on him. The overlay may have shifted if he used one

I'd wear the 16610 every day, and save the 1680 , just so you could admire it from time to time.

Really hard to tell in a picture. I can tell you what I've noticed with a gen and aftermarket crystal. In my hand the gen crystal, etched or not, it feels buttery smooth, the aftermarket feels sharp. I call it the touch test, for me it really works. You don't need to look at it, just feel it, you will see what Im talking about.

I've never seen one that bad. Maybe its just the way it's photographed. Surely puretime wouldn't show an LEC that bad, if they are trying to sell a watch, and that is what they do. Id say in person it looks good, but ask puretime, they will tell you.

Of course you can put a plastic crystal on a new case, however its a lot thicker as you know. If you use an old 16013 or 14 case, you really need to use a 2824-2 for the stem to align properly in the case tube. Good luck

SMEA in dallas tx has the movements for 20.00 I suggest you buy 2, because that will happen again

I don't know what you guys are talking about, I have all those parts in my cabinet, and they didn't cost me a thing. LOL

Rolex tells their dealers cut to fit if needed on the inserts. Thats amazing

I have the sa3135 in a ym, and I have had zero problems. I believe its because I don't mess with it at all. When I do need to wind it and set the time an date, I am very gentle with it because of all the news about the thinner stem etc. Believe me, I have tried to change the markers on sub dials, and it is way more difficult than you can imagine. It seems like a simple task, remove the markers you want, install them in another dial. Very very hard to do without destroying the luminous. I suggest you find the dial with the markers you want and install the complete dial. You will thank me if you do. If you try to change the makers, you will find out the hard way exactly what Im talking about. Good luck

On any of the automatics, move them closer slows them down, move them apart speeds them up. That adds or reduces tension on the hairspring. Need I say, make very small adjustments. Also, stop the watch when you make the adjustment,If you were to touch the hairspring while it was running, Instant death to your movement. Hope this helps