mymanmatt

I don't see why not.

They will correct your cyclops when they ar it.

Id leave it alone. When you get straight it will be at the top of the date window, just as annoying.. Find a good crystal and install it.

The 2836 will not work properly, only the 2824 will work correctly. With a piepan dial it will set up higher in the case, but that won't be a problem because you will be using a plastic crystal and the sweep second should clear the bottom of the crystal easily. I would recommend a gen crystal, they seal better.

That is a bit much. I build the same watch with 10K braclet ( will never rub off) and plated bezel with swiss 2836-2 for 410.00 No boxes

For the price I like it a lot

I've never been able to find rep el's marked 555 but that doesn't mean they don't exist, I just don't know where to find them

Your welcome. I forgot to mention the height of the canon piñon. It doesn't matter if you use a date disc or not, the dial placement is the same. You can choose 3 different canon piñon heights to get the clearance of the sweep second to the bottom of the crystal. I love doing these builds, it's like Forrest Gump said, life is like abox of chocolate , you never know what you going to get, doing these builds, you never know what's going to fit. Lol

Here is your answer for which movement to use. The position of the stem in the case tube on the 2824 is a touch higher than the 2836. I know this because I had both movements side by side, and was using a gen case with both movements assembled and new stems in each, when I put the 2824 in th case the stem was dead center of the case tube, when I put the 2836 in the case the stem was towards the bottom of the case tube, could not use it in the gen case without raising the bottom of the rehaut. Hope this helps

I have a set and they are 20mm according to my measurement, however I can't measure to the thousandts like you. Usually the end links fit pretty snug, 0015thousandts is a touch more clearance than normal.

I like it, alot!! The stainless pres bracelet is a must, I think

I have found that many times the screw holding the rotor has been tightened to much, and cracking the tube the screw goes in, thus the rotor is loose and wobbles when it moves. Remove the the rotor and loop the tube the screw goes into, you may see a crack. Oiling is not suggested. Even rolex says do not oil the reversing gears or rotor on a gen

Nice looking case, but seems very expensive

If you use a gen case you can use a 2824-2 not a 2836-2 The stem placement is to low on the 2836. I have built several of these watches over the years. Of course gen case and dial are a must. Today's overlay will work. Next is the bracelet, a gen is a must. Today's aftermarket bracelets are a touch to thick. You can build this watch for around $600. A lot, but it will be spot on. Good luck. Cas-Ker has the 2824-2 movement

I love It!!! LOL hows florida, were leaving in about an hour

I thought you sold that watch?

I agree with just as good. However there are some issues with stem and crown that should be checked. First remove the case back and slightly loosen the mounting tab screws, too much and rotor won't get out you way for the other screw. Then close your crown all the way and tighten it. Then tighten your mounting srews. Sometimes when you tighten the the mounting screws on your tab, it will cause the movement to rotate a little, thus misalignment on your stem making it difficult to operate. Also with the stem pulled out all the way, look at it from the side and see if it is centered in the case tube. If it is up or down you will have to correct that. Movements cannot have any pressure on the stems at all, they must work freely with no bind of any kind. If that doesn't fix problem, replace you crown and see if that fixes it. Hope this helps, Matt

I agree. Take your time and do your research! It will pay off big time when you do decide to buy one. Sometimes spending a little more money gets us the results we want. But then, sometimes not!! LOL

WOW amazing knowledge!!

Item number 170884638113 Im pretty sure, 72200 on the clasp? Thats the number on my reps

Any reference for a 16220? Thanks

5 min epoxy. Use only a very very small dab in about 6 places. Be sure to put the small dabs towards the outside of the original calender wheel. If you put it to close to the inside of the calender wheel, it could run down to the inside causing big problems. I use a small flat screw driver to apply the epoxy to the calender wheel. It leaves a hershey kisses type dab, which is perfect when you put the overlay on. Be sure and only turn the ovelay counter clockwise to align it, if you turn it clockwise it can change the position of the calender wheel and make your overlay off just enough to piss you off. LOL good luck Next time you you need to remove a calender wheel with an overlay, simply slide a single edge razor blade under the calender wheel where the positioning spring is, rotate the calender wheel slightly clockwise, push the spring in very gently and it should pop up and off. When its off you will see the spring and the 2 slots the teeth come through, reverse the procedure to reinstall.

This is a datejust not a submariner, No t25 on a DJ. Same dial as item # 370634719222 on the bay without RR tracks. I do like the new shiney silver dial, notice "swiss made" only on the dial. Surely noone would try to sell a rep on the bay and present it as gen, would they! I like all your comments and take no offense to any of them. Still just having some fun. It is amazing the knowledge some you have on details of rolex watches.

This dial was available in 2005, with or without rr tracks. A lot of people don't like blue dials, even the new style.

Remember folks, just having some fun!