buffedupboy

I'm curious why they chose that particular movement then because I have seen some chinese movements with that particular layout that works. Perhaps that particular movement has a more accurate subdial spacing, I'm not sure, just odd.

Hey, I definitely have the look to back it up! lol..... yes it's a sec. at 9, but that doesn't explain why they have a non working subdial at 6?

Hi All, The daytona bug has bit, and I'm looking at some of these: http://www.ttw168.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_6&products_id=7592 http://www.ttw168.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_6&products_id=9581 I'm just not sure how accurate these are. Also the non working subdial at 6 is bugging me. Why can't they get a movement that has a working 6 subdial? Thanks in advance.

How do I get one of those?! Hot!!

Hi, Late to the party here, but as a watch maker (to remain anonymous), I have been exploring forged carbon fiber for one of our new models. Just as a ball park, here are some of the numbers: The mold will be approx USD9000. The case itself will work out to around USD80/pc. This assumes the use of a SS bezel though. The minimum thickness needs to be 1mm. Anything less and it gets brittle real fast. You can't tap threads, so you will need to figure out how to attach some parts to it. I would recommend a separate SS part bonded to the carbon. In order to make this project a reality, the watch will need to be built from the ground up unfortunately. Otherwise things get real complicated real fast.

I have a relatively old version of the PAM127. I purchased this when I knew nothing (still know nothing) about reps. All I can tell you is that at the time, it was one of the better reps available. The biggest tell tale sign is the engraving on the exhibition movement is crocked? If anyone has any info on this version that would be much appreciated. Also some advise as to what is normally done and who can do this would be great. Thanks again guys.

Consider me in.

Image showing modded CG internal width. Some may notice overall width of CG to be smaller. From the side. Overall shape of CG including underside was modded. Just the usual wrist shot:

So, after doing my research on this forum, I decided to take the plunge and buy one to see for myself. Most posts I read were rather negative about this sub, and after purchasing it for myself rightly so I would say. Here are some points that I found out after the fact: 1) The CG shape is not the same as Gen. Bottom and top is also wrong. Spacing between CGs is too narrow. I expected this as that was what most posters mentioned. 2) I am not sure whether the construction of the bezel is the same as new models but it does not feature a click spring, or a internal compression ring. In order to remove the bezel, you will need to remove the sapphire, then the bezel insert, and slowly pry open the retaining spring. There is no other way. 3) I was going to modify the CGs myself so tried to pry open the bezel..... tried so hard I damaged the bezel, warped.... I used a bezel extractor and it was so forceful the sapphire popped right off. AGAIN, THE BEZEL ONLY COMES OFF IF YOU FOLLOW 2 ABOVE! 4) The CG is actually narrower than the original, so after filing the internal width to match the original (which is about 8.8mm wide) when I checked it against a Gen, the external width was narrower. I am not sure whether this is the same for the other sub reps. 5) Crown tube was a pain to remove, mostly because it wasn't meant to be removed.There is no internal catch for a hex, or any other tool. It was only meant to go in one way.... I managed to remove it by first boiling it, to soften the locktite, then jam a file in (damaged internals but there's no other way), and slowly turned it counter clockwise. You can't mod the CG without removing the crown tube. 6) The bezel insert is glued in place, you will need to glue it back after. Something I am not very fond of. Although the bezel insert is relatively well made. Definitely better than a 'clark'. 7) The bracelet and buckle was a little bit of a disappointment. The buckle was very poorly finished, sharp and some of the groove lines were not finished. A file fixed that. There is no click spring, it does have a spring loaded button, again I am not sure whether newer models of the subs are the same. No doubt design wise it is much better than a click spring, but we don't buy reps for design purposes. 9) The biggest telltale sign for this version is the crown. It is a very cheaply made crown. So in summary, the construction is absolutely not Gen. It is a painful process to mod this watch. After screwing up the bezel while attempting to remove it, I had to press it flat, file the bottom of the bezel for it to fit again, clean up the underside of all the gouging then glue the insert into place. Well, to the positives then? The hands/ dials are well made, lume is pretty decent, date mag is correct. For the next project I will probably just buy the cheapest version of the sub and do the necessary modifications from there. Pictures to follow later.

Been talking to Andrew about this and it seems the 0017 is from another factory? Apparently the case and bracelet finishing are better? Not sure..... anyone care to verify?

It's shod, yes it is press-fit together but you are missing some parts which are likely inside your movement somewhere.

Personally I would say 90% of wis wouldn't be able to tell the difference between a highend rep and a gen. It is people who buy highend reps that obsess about the all the small details anyways. It's an obsession after all, it's not normal behaviour....

So, I'm looking at the Sub on Trusty Time. It has a sapphire insert bezel and is cheaper than a sub from TC. How do these rate and compare? Totally new to this Sub reps so all help will be appreciated.

I just bought the 177. Andrew was great to deal with, I initially wanted to get a watch from PT but the lack of replies kinda bothered me (I'm ADD).... anyways, Andrew was fantastic with communication and when I was stuck between the 005 and 111, he pointed out the 177 and I was blown away. Still waiting for the watch, will let you know once it gets here.

Actually I already have the 127. Was looking at the 111 or 005? Do you guys know whether the latest versions have the correct sub-second hand? I read that the Noob factory has the white hand as opposed to silver? Why does it get so complicated?

Well, been a big rep fan for some time and finally stumbled upon this site which is like a god sent. Looked at all the trusted sellers and it's definitely hard to decide which one to go with but I gotta say the amount of work put fourth by Puretime is commendable. Since there isn't much experience to go by, I've decided to go with them for my first Pam rep. I was wondering based on the criteria below, what would be the best rep available from PT straight out of the box (well.. envelope) without any mod. - Brushed case (don't like polished cases) - Asian movement - 316L Thank you once again for all the information on here, it has been brilliant.