stilty

thanks for that... just thinking of another Franken project... any info on the 14060 case? Is it different than the 16610?

just curious if the genuine cases are similar, or same size? Just fitted with different crown tubes, crowns and bezels. non-date sub 14060 Explorer 16570 GMT 16710 Anyone know, or have specs for comparison?

nice post... I've also used a soldering iron... leaves no flame residue.

I had this email sent to me last year, and I am sending it out this year! Gotta get this thing happening! BTW - the wife bought me a new BBQ last year! Good Times! You know the drill. Every 14th of February you get the chance to display your fondness for a significant other by showering her with gifts, flowers, dinner, shows and any other baubles that women find romantic. Every Valentines day you rack your brains for that one special, unique gift that will show your wife or girlfriend that you really do care for them more than any other. Now ladies, I'll let you in on a little secret; guys really don't enjoy this that much. Sure seeing that smile on your face when we get it right is priceless, but that smile is the result of weeks of blood, sweat and consideration. Another secret; guys feel left out. That's right, there's no special holiday for the ladies to show their appreciation for the men in their life. Men as a whole are either too proud or too embarrassed to admit it. Which is why a new holiday has been created. March 20th is now officially "Steak and Blowjob Day". Simple, effective and self explanatory, this holiday has been created so you ladies finally have a day to show your man how much you care for him. No cards, no flowers, no special nights on the town; the name of the holiday explains it all, just a steak and a BJ. Thats it. Finally, this twin pair of Valentine's Day and Steak and Blowjob Day will usher in a new age of love as men everywhere try THAT much harder in February to ensure a memorable March 20th! The word is already beginning to spread, but as with any new idea, it needs a little push to start the ball rolling. So spread the word, and help bring love and peace to this crazy world. And, of course, steak and BJ's. Also, some folks celebrate Steak & BJ day on March 14, and some on March 20. March 20 is thought to be the “official” day. But if you want, celebrate it on both days. Please spread the word!

Thanks! It was quite a simple fix really, once I figured out how it all worked.

Well, after 24hrs and a bit... the results are in. and they are inconclusive. 50/50 with the feet. An optimist would say the stuff works... as for me? Well, I clipped the top of them with snips and they both held. I figured the snips would give a bit of pressure and be a test. then I took the file to them... nothing to heavy, but a little foreplay to say the least. One popped off after a few strokes. The other is really on there. I filed a few more strokes more firmly, and it feels solid. Human error? Did I not seat the foot properly? I don't know? Maybe I'll try it again, but prep the dial. I don't know if it should be rough or smooth. This glue is meant for bearings and they are pretty damn smooth.

You would probably have to get someone to do a custom job for you. And you would have to have the hand swap. Hour hand modifed to fit on GMT wheel, and GMT hand modifed to fit on hour wheel. This would have your hour hand running at 1/2 speed, as it is attached to GMT wheel. Your GMT hand would be running as normal hour hand. It would take some getting used to, but this is the only way it would work. The gmt wheel sits too low to the dial, and if you attach a long GMT hand, it won't clear the dial markers.

the 2893-2 movements will not work for Rolex GMTs as the stack is wrong. The GMT hand is on the bottom, and will not clear the dial markers. The only option would a hand swap where you fitted the hour hand on the GMT wheel, and the GMT hand on the hour wheel. This of course would have the GMT hand as your hour and and vice versa.

A while back I asked a question about converting a 2824-2 movement to a non-date, two position movement for a franken EX-1, as well as for rep 5517 that my brother has. We all know the 2824-2 is a three position stem: Position 1 - winding Position 2 - set date Position 3 - set time But for those of us, myself included, that strive for the ultimite rep or franken, we only need a two position movement for our non-date models. First off, thank you The Zigmeister for pointing me in the right direction for the part required to do this. I decided to make my own part with some spares from an old movement and I have had success! Below is the part responsible for stem position. I believe it is called the set bridge. If you look at the bridge on the right, where the arrow is pointing, those notches are for setting the position of the stem. What I did was carefully smooth it out so there are only two positions that the stem can set. I eleminated the notch that is postion 2, so now the stem goes directly to position 3 when pulled out. Modified bridge on the left. Here is a pic of the stem in postion one: Here is pic of the stem in position three, or now the new positon two: I also stripped the movement of all date gears and functions so it is a very basic movement. I also have a non-date ZENO that is a three positon stem as well, even though there is no date. I think I will modify that watch as well.

Nice photos!

They are already making 1:1 cases.... they just happen to be made of 18K gold

I found this link trying to solve my dial feet issue. http://www.bhi.co.uk/hints/loctite.htm Anyone try this stuff? I guess it is industrial grade for setting bearings and such. 3000psi shear strength. I picked up a bottle today to give it a try. The salesman said it is military spec, so once it bonds, it will not come apart. I'm testing it on an old dial to see if it works. results to follow in 24hrs.

Hey Zig, Thanks for the correction on the A2 comparison. Believe it or not, but I spoke with Bob at Ofrei, and he actually helped me out. He at first told me that it is not his job to answer my type of question, but he did do a reference check, and said all parts based on 2890 series, with the exception of a few, are interchangable. So far, they are. I've swapped out a cannon pinion and hour wheel from an ETA2892-2 into the mido and no problem, unfortunately, they were too short for my needs and I ordered them from Ofrei. I also swapped the date driving wheel as the the one on the mido was slipping and not turning the date wheel. And just for fun, the driving wheel from a 2824-2 fit as well. So far so good. The only part I haven't tried is the fourth wheel. I'll leave that up to a professional to change. And yes aligoat, it is a bit of work... but that is really the fun part of it all! If it was easy, it would be boring. Trying to figure out a way to make something work, and getting it to work is just as satisfying as the end product.

You can order one from Julesborel, and most likely Ofrei. I haven't checked with Ofrie, but see them listed on Julesborel website. If you are in Europe, I beleive another member is putting together a group buy. Check in the parts trading section. As far as tips, I can give you tips on what I did to fit in a 3135 case. It is easier to file/sand down the ring while it is attached to a movement. I got mine from an old 2834-3 that I salvaged. Don't file down at the movement you are planning on using! You will definately get it full of dust and it will require a full service! I took a little bit off at a time with a fine file until I had proper diameter and it fit snuggly in the case. Be careful once you start getting closer to the fit as the material is brittle, almost like a very hard rubber compound. Just take your time. Once I had the diameter, I had to take some off the top of the ring, as the ring also acts as a dial support for the 2834-2, carefully file it down. until it is flush with movement. Again, easier to file when installed on movement, just make sure you use an old dead movement. The next step is you have to take some off the top edge of the ring in order to fit in the case. I filed to top edge of the ring at 45 degrees and about 1mm in. This is because the 3135 movement is in steps. where the dial sits, and the top part of the 3135 is 28mm, then the 3135 steps out to 28.5mm. I don't have a machine to bring the top part of the ring to 28mm, so that is why I just filed at 45 degrees. Just enough so the ring sits in the 28mm opening, below the dial. The easiest way that I did this, was I installed an old dial that I salvaged from another watch that was 26.5mm. I used that old dial as a guide as to how far I file to. The last step is you have to file in notches to fit the case clamps. This is how I did it to fit in a 3135 case. For your 15000, I think that is a 3035, so the fitting may be slightly different. Hope this helps.

Hey fellow frankenjust builders! Check out these NOS Mido watches that have the 12.5''' ETA 2892-2 movements in them! They are on the bay. CLICK HERE I'm going to get a couple for future projects. I am working with one now that I got out of an old watch, but it requires a service which will get done when the new cannon pinion, hour wheel, and fourth wheel arrive. I've test fitted this in a genuine 16220 case with an old dial... it requires a spacer between dial and movement in order for stem to line up, but the good news is, you can overlay a genuine or aftermarket datewheel. Keep in mind when looking at pictures, that these are test fittings. datewheel not firmly attached or 100% aligned... etc. Here is a pic of movement in case. I had to file down the case clamps in order to fit. Just look how perfect that movement fits in the case! Here is a pic of the movement with aftermarket overlay and spacer attached to dial. I'm not too happy with the aftermarket overlay. The printing is terrible. Would like to find a genuine if I could. I just need to figure out a way to firmly attach the dial to movement. I also replaced the datewheel with a 2824-2 datewheel as the larger diameter datewheel would rub against my dial spacer. I'm sure this wouldn't be a problem if you found another type of spacer. Here is another pic... look at the diameter of the original datewheel. Here is it is assembled. No hands installed as I'm waiting for new cannon pinion, hour wheel, and fourth wheel. Again, look at that crappy printing on the datewheel. I bought it from wholesaleoutlet990 on ebay. I'm thinking of sending it back as it was guaranteed to not be able to tell from genuine. The printing is bleeding more than my jawbone! (I had to have one of my wisdom teeth extracted today - gotta love Tylenol 3 w/ codine though) But now the test fitting is done! date wheel turns over with no problem, crown lines up perfectly and screws down smooth. Super high quality SWISS movement. I've read reviews that rate the 2892-2 to the 3135. The winding on this is great! The larger diameter movement and rotor add some weight and definately give a move genuine feel to the watch. I can't wait for my parts to get in, source a proper datewheel, and complete the final assembly. The finished project will be a gift for the wife!

Update: This came in today. Off a 2006 datejust.

I figured I would post a few pics showing the enlargement "spacer" ring that I used on my EX-1. I used the enlargement ring from an ETA 2834-2 movement. ETA adds this ring to the movement to accomodate the day disc. This brings the movement to a 13''' or 29mm diameter. I had to carefully file the ring down to fit in the genuine case. You will also have to file a bit off the top of the ring, as it has a small lip that is used for dial support. This ring fits the movement perfecty, as it is molded for the movement. It is definately not very pretty to look at, but it works very well. Here is movement in case secured with case clamps. You also have to file a bit of room so the case clamps can fit in case. Here is a shot of the movement out of case: and another: with dial attached: And here is the movement that I am going to use for my next project! ETA 2892-2 movement that is in 28.5'''. No need for a spacer ring! Notice the beautiful finish! And the size of the rotor and how well it fits in the case.

sounds like a great project! First off, the spacer ring/movement holder will be a hit for every franken builder out there! Have him build a few of those and offer them for sale. I would love a 1:1 16610 case, but that is asking a lot. Any idea what steel he is going to use? 904L would be ideal to match the color and shine of genuine.

All mine are at 27.84mm as well.

I think I know what you mean, the ring that fits on top of the movement between movement and dial. I've got a few, but they won't fit my movement as they are made for 11.5''' 2824-2 movements, and I'm using a 12.5''' 2892-2 movement, and it did not come with this ring.

Great watch and I love the movement! Nice job! Did you you need to build a spacer between dial and movement as the movement is thinner than regular eta movmements? I'm currently working on a franken project with 2892-2, and so far have found I need a spacer that is 0.37mm between dial and movement. Otherwise the stem won't line up with crown tube. I'm wondering if you had that problem and what you used. I'm experimenting with sign vinyl. I've had a sign maker laminate sign vinyl until it is 0.37mm, and computer cut me a spacer that goes between the dial and movement without interfering with date wheel. It is similar to a gasket. I've had it cut 28mm OD and 25.5MM ID. Can't think of anything else to use at them moment.

The Zigmeister is correct. I've bought from both, and dropped the extra $$$ on the blister pack movement. If I remember correctly, it was actaully more than double the price from Ofrei. I think it was 90 pounds sterling, and the one from Ofrei was 85US. This was a few years back and I'm sure the price has changed. But do expect to pay more for sealed movement.

Nice watch and fantastic movment! I'm sure it looks stunning in real life, cuz those pictures look great. I've got this movement sitting in a gen case. Just waiting for some parts so I can finally put it all together.

Hey there, slowly getting my parts together for a franken project for the wife. hopefully in time for Valentine's Day, but it isn't looking promising. Anyway, need some expert advise as to what datewheel I should go with. I have two. one from cubic-works, and the other an aftermarket 3135. Here are some pics. Please excuse the fingerprints, dust, etc, as I am only holding in the dial and datewheel for comparison photos. They have not been installed yet. First comparison side by side: now here is a picture of old style: and here is the supposed identical 3135 font. I would like to use this if it looks close enough the old style font is much more bolder, but the printing on the new style is so nice and clean and probably more close to genuine.

Maybe I'm out of the loop, but I can't think of any watchmaker that uses 440. When I hear 440, I think of knives! Anyone collect knives? I've got a few autos kicking around, but haven't been bitten by the knive bug yet. My vote would go for 904 then 316. Only reason, is when you look at polished 904, as in Rolex, it is briliant when compared to anything else. just my 0.02.