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Thanks Tom. I've heard lots about these mods. If I can't find anyone closer to where I live I'll surely get in touch with one of them.

Thanks JoeyB. Will do. By the way: You're in the States too isn't it?

Aw c'mon don't be shy... [emoji1] RolexAddict is in France isn't he? How do I get in touch with him? Through PM, email...?

Thanks for this opinion BC because it gives me the occasion of adding this fundamental info: This dial has never been lumed. And unfortunatey no, I'm not in the USA but in the good ole EU.

Hello all, Following this thread [http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/174211-im-trying-to-establish-a-period-correct-list-of-parts/], I have been reading all the material I could find on the subject of reluming dials, especially some very interesting things about JoeyB. Now I know that I am not going to put my hands on my 1016 service dial ever I would therefore need the good services of one of the community's excellent modders. Can you recommend someone which will do lume and is not fully booked till 2033?

Thanks Martin, interesting thread you've got going on there. I have gathered a few more bits and pieces from the net: First off the movement is a 6309 produced during the eighties (not the 70s as I thought). The serial engraved on the caseback is comprised of 6 digits the first two of which indicate year and month in which the piece was produced. Therefore mine which bears number 614179 will be 29 years old next January. Of course there is nothing to brag about in this piece but, it's as no-thrills, though-as-hell little mother*****r which will go on forever whatever you throw at it.

Indeed it is. [emoji1] It belonged to a mechanic at my local bicycles workshop which would not sell it, until he found out the hard way that it was no longer water resistant... He then gladly handed it to me in exchange for a brand new (waterproof) watch. So much water had leaked into the case that there'd be droplets instead of fog on the internal face of the crystal... The movement was nonetheless still ticking away peacefully, but for how much longer? Since I am currently waiting for my new house to be ready and all my belongings are tucked away in neat boxes, my stuff is dispersed God knows where; without a readily available way to open the case I tried various "creative" alternatives to no avail. That is when I remembered that the workers which are renovating my place have been bringing these huge halogen lamps with them to light up the place now that it gets dark early. I went there and hanged the watch right in front of a lamp, until the metal got so hot that I wouldn't be able to touch it with bare hands. At that point there'd only be fog left on the crystal. I turned the watch so that the dial would face the lamp and kept it there for another ten minutes. Upon picking it up the crystal had become so hot that it got literally ejected from the case with a huge pop... I found it on the floor a couple of feet away and pressed it back on the case and presto! No more fog! [emoji1] Of course now she's off to the watchsmith but the movement has gone through all this without skipping a beat....

All, I've been coming across this very interesting piece. A Seiko 5 which looks nothing like the other nos watches from the nineties you can find for a dime the dozen on the bay. This looks much older (at least all the way down to the seventies judging from the shape of the case and the bracelet). The intriguing part is the iridescent dial which looks like it's been printed directly on the metal, while the tritium is completely spent. I have been trying to find some infos on this particular model but did not come up with anything. Does anyone have any pointer to share?

Thanks everybody! Upon your replies and suggestions I have dug further into the recesses of the internet to find the following, (which I think DieselPower will appreciate too as it could help him decide his build's lume shade): This definitely is where I want mine to get! I came accross these pictures after reading that in the mid-eighties Rolex started using the "serif" font to decorate its 1016 dials, as a more linear alternative to the "slab serif" they had been using until then. Thanks LHOOQ for pointing me in the right direction . Now I know that assembling a 1016 with a "serif" dial and a superdome is period-correct. The flip size is that I can't come to terms with the formation of patina on a dial manufactured during the decade I grew up into... it still feels like yesterday...

Hello! I have been putting together my 1016 build without considering the correctness of the parts I shoved at it. A bit of research has left me with more questions than answers since: I was convinced that all watches manufactured before 1970 (circa) would sport a slim legged "R" like so: Therefore all watches produced after 1970 should have borne an "R" with its characteristic "triangular - shaped" leg. This detail would compel me to stick to a GS flat crystal instead of the superdome I have been fitting my franken with. Then what happens is that I find this on Stefano Mazzariol's blog and the piece also is equipped with a superdome. [emoji15] Now I'm confused. ... Does this mean that I can relume my dial with a slightly yellowish patina and it will pass for a vintage piece without anyone raising an eyebrow? Or would a more modern look (the a.m. GS crystal and white puffy lume) render it more credible? Sorry for the double post (darn Tapatalk...) and for the upside down pic but that's not my fault. I have been uploading a correctly rotated image and TP has been publishing it like that...

Hello! I have been putting together my 1016 build without considering the correctness of the parts I shoved at it. A bit of research has left me with more questions than answers since: I was convinced that all watches manufactured before 1970 (circa) would sport a slim legged "R" like so: rolex1016explorer20100201v2-5x2 Therefore all watches produced after 1970 should have borne an "R" with its characteristic "triangular - shaped" leg. This detail would compel me to stick to a GS flat crystal instead of the superdome I have been fitting it with. 20141103_133912 Then what happens is that I find this 1016m on Stefano Mazzariol's blog and the piece also is equipped with a superdome. [emoji15] Now I'm confused. ...

This unfortunately is a big issue for repsters in Italy, as local watchsmiths will generally not work on reps. Someone willing to take on a reparation will be found here and there but only on a one time basis. There apparently is no way to establish a routine with our domestic smiths so, we most of the time are obliged to send our valued pieces abroad with the consequent risk of having it stolen or seized by the custom authorities. My best shot so far is a very good technician I found in southern France, which will work on any rep and will do all kind of reparations except mods and luming/reluming. The guy's prices are very good and he is a trusted and respected member in another well known reps forum.

Thanks for the kind comments. The next step is that of applying a nice coat of puffy white lume to the dial's numerals and indices; then proper engravings and perhaps a gen bracelet.

The never ending story but I'll cut it short for you: - case and caseback from a gen 162xx Rolex heavily modified by Akira (thanks F!), based upon a precise outline of LHOOQ's (thanks M!) gen 1016. - bezel from Jmb (who else?) *thanks J!*. - gen Superdome. - gen dial (thanks Denimhead!). - gen 2824-2 - gen tube and crown. - TC's legendary submariner hands (thanks T!). I've been trying to fit a set of gen hands on this but the cannon pinion is too big, I wish I could source a gen 1520/30 but I'm told that it won't fit inside the 162xx case. Not a big deal but you know... I guess this is as far gen as I can go with this here build, but I'm far from done trying to achieve the perfect 1016....

Agree with both. Wish such dial could be sourced somewhere...

Thanks a lot for chiming in and for being so passionate. Please rest assured that I have no intention of "butchering" my watch; I have not been buying it on a whim and more or less know what I have in my hands. I also know what an original " Super Precision Explorer face" dial would cost provided I could source one (and it would not turn out being another fake). For such reason if the pictures on NDT's site can be trusted, and their SP Explorer dial is as good as it looks, swapping my original "Super Precision AK face" for that is no different than swapping it for an original replacement dial from Rolex, with its yellowish luminova markers (the local AD was offering a SCOC 1016 luminova replacement dial at Eur. 600 and called it a bargain...).

I appreciate tour feedback Automatico, thank you for it as you were trying to help. On a side note I am referring to NDT, not Phong. I have been looking at their site too but could not find the dial I am looking for. That said the price is not a very big issue. This dial would have to go on a gen and not common at all piece, therefore I want it to be as close as gen as at all possible; of course I am willing to pay for such high expectation. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Yeah it's a strange beast... an AK but also an Explorer and yet not really any of the two. And most important: It's clean understated looks with no SCOC writings that hide the fact that the 1530 movement under the hood can be tweaked to COSC specs in a breeze. But I digress... are you implying that I'd rather ask Yuki to build a custom dial for me instead of buying NDT's piece which is already available and is exactly the part I'd need?

Hi Automatico thanks for replying, The 5504 diameter is 36mm. I'll follow your advice and drop an eye on Yuki's site. Lorenzo

http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/157633-1016-ready-to-roll/#

Good morning everybody, Back after a long time, I need your kind help with the following: I just got this nice piece dated 1963; it's basically an Explorer with an Air King face. I'd like to find the correct Explorer face but it's almost impossible, as I only bump onto the classic 1016 SCOC dials while the desired one must bear the"Super Precision" label instead; as such the gen way is a no go. Replica-wise I see that NDT offers exactly what I'm looking for but, I wonder whether the product I'd get from them matches the nice pictures on their site. I'm consequently turning to you for advices, criticisms and whatnot: would you recommend NDT? Anyone else you'd care to tell me about from which I can source this dial without getting ripped off? Thanks in advance Lorenzo

Happy Easter to each and everyone! This morning I casually dropped onto this (from the Rolex Forum): Now please tell me which is Akira's and which is the real thing

Specs and details can be found here Akira has been putting the finishing touches on this great project, here's the thing. Can't wait to have it on my wrist: Once again kudos, greetings and whatnot go to those without which this would not have been possible: Akira, LHOOQ, TC, and JMB for the best 1016 bezel out there. Thanks a lot gentlemen, working with you has been both a pleasure and a privilege. Did I mention I can't wait to have it here with me?

As Frank Zappa would have it: "thank you, thank you and... thank you!"... for sharing the knowledge.<br /><br />Freddy and JoeyB<br />You know what? I'm half scottish so there's a part of me which will invariably be attracted by the idea of paying less; . <br />Please tell me, is the Silix case a viable option or would I be better off with Yuki's? <br /><br />Panerai<br />Then "asian" seems the way to go

Hi Freddy, I have asked Yuki about this and, as you guessed he has replied that his case is designed for the 1030 movement. He also says that he does not know if an ETA will fit, therefore he has no advice in regard to adapter rings.