e30m3

I've got a Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days (Ceramic, Brown Dial) here with a broken balance wheel (the jewel to the mainplate seems to have cracked largely away, and I don't think the spindle is quite as long as it should be (the end of the staff seems to have chipped off along with the jewel - don't ask). I can't seem to find a balance wheel that matches anywhere, so my questions are: 1. What's the movement based on? Can I buy a new Shanghai (or Seagull, etc) movement to cannibalize the balance wheel, or has this been altered to look like a P.9000? 2. Or better yet - is there anyone who sells just the new balance wheel assembly? 3. Anyone have one sitting around they want to sell? Thanks!

Yeah I suppose I was begging the question a bit there. Just seems like another level of dishonesty - outright lying, I mean. Not that the ethics of this hobby aren't up for debate in general, just that this is more than a click or two further down the bulIshit hole.

Can someone explain how this (must be a scam) works? https://www.swisstime.sr

I've searched and I've searched but can't find a detailed how-to on swapping date wheels in the Miyota 9015. Mine conked out and I'm going to order a new one, but need the current date wheel for the font. I found the rebuild/teardown pages on the 9015, but all seem to skip over the date wheel removal. Just trying to assess whether this is something I can do myself. TIA.

So, I'm aware of the current best "flat" hands. But as I've gone further and further down this 1680 rabbit hole, I've learned that, somewhere in the mid-'70's, Rolex started "curving" the hands - this supposedly in an effort to avoid washout (illegible) at any single angle. That is, there's always some light reflecting back off the hands, because they're curved. THEN, I learned that they're not curved at all - they're deliberately tapered, as in the attached pic. So the question is, does anyone replicate tapered hands, and are they any good? And should I (we, let's be serious here) even give a [censored]?

Anyone ever seen anything like this? Watch randomly stopped (Pelagos V4 with the Miyota), so I wound it and got this: If you've seen it before, what's the solution? Edit: the watch shaking in my hand is because the rotor keeps spinning! DE953948-0990-4391-BD3B-D6F8DB94CB86.MOV

I'm half tempted to try your idea above - maybe even right on the lathe. I have an old caseback that doesn't have other plans... It'd be a matter of really nailing the center on the caseback, of course. But as you say, I could always check runout before screwing the case on if I'm using the lathe! As far as the two walls that need to come down .25mm, I have those right? Each one needs .25 off?

It's a professional lathe, yeah. Super heavy, doesn't budge. Maybe @Rolexaddict could be so kind as to chime in on the "shave what where" aspect?

I was debating sandpaper until I saw how narrow that ledge is. Thinking it might be easier (but not easy) on the lathe. So, both surfaces (rehaut and seat) go down .25mm? Thanks.

Just to be sure I’m about to take metal off the right area (.25mm all around, for a total of .5mm), it’s this little lip that needs to be lathed right? Where the arrow lands?

Well done. I’m in. Here’s hoping you’ll consider doing long 5 and MK3 next!

Good lord, well done! Mind my asking, what do you use to apply? I've tried toothpick threads, reeeeallly thin paint brushes, and oilers, but never had such a smooth result.

What do you mean? I've been looking up date alignment on these, and near as I can tell, the Gen is a little more right justified - that what you're saying? How about the markers? Good enough?

Looking for a little feedback if you guys would - I can see some indices are a little less than straight, but I'm not sure they'd [censored] me off on a daily basis. What do you think? If you're seeing some that aren't straight, which ones? Thanks.

Oh I have plenty of others I can wear while working on this one!

I'm going to just do the cartel case. I can't pull myself to find $650+ for something I'm going to stick a 2846 in anyway. I'll work the lugs down to where I like them, and drill out the holes to 1.25mm. I wouldn't be able to live with a 26mm dial, knowing the real deal is .5mm bigger (I know, I know, but that's what makes this stupid hobby such a rabbit hole to begin with...) That, and I want the watch to have the Rolex date position (not ETA). SO - is it not possible to SLOWLY sand out the rehaut with, say, 2000 grit, until I get the additional .5mm (I'm not sure I'm understanding what exactly the dial seat is, but am assuming it's basically where the rehaut hits the dial on the inside of the case)? Assuming I do pull off my intended sanding, will the rehaut/crystal/bezel dimensions be correct with my having modified the case to accomodate the 26.5mm dial? That is, will it LOOK right? Or will the rehaut now be too thin, etc etc etc? Bonus OT questions I'd love to have answers for: I bought a Sternkreuz 127 for giggles - is that a decent "top hat" to use, or do I need to also buy the Clark's? Or other? Any advice on the current best datewheel overlay (yes, I realize this will likely be a pain in the ass to install) and dial?

Anyone have a good pic of cartel crown height vs MBW/Ruby/Rolex/etc? I don't mind a little casework, but moving the crown is waaaaaay outside my comfort zone.

So, the Cartel 1680 isn't even worth looking at for less than $150? What are the issues? Yuki said 1680 case is discontinued, though Ruby has them for $650 (ouch). If one were willing to drop $650 on the Ruby, what's needed to get a 2846 working? Spacer? And will an overlay solve the ETA datewheel location issue? I like the idea of using an MBW, but they're hard to come by and when they do, the Ruby case is a small jump in $$ more.

Guys, just a quick nerdy note for those looking to replicate this build - I THOUGHT I'd used a GS PA462-19M crystal, but in fact it was a GS PA462-20A. The 19M is a better fit for the bezel, but a little loose on the neck. Critically, though, it's not as domed as the 20A! 😁

Yep. This is a pretty good overview, but it doesn't go into too much detail about what might actually have legitimately come on the watch in the first place. My thought is, 5513's are fine with a good thin font bezel in present day (because the real watches may have had the fat ones replaced at servicing anyway), but the fat font is ideal. Still, I can't find an aftermarket one that looks correct. Anyone else? Or, anyone aware of a guide showing which subs came with which bezels?

After searching, best I can tell is Yuki has the best fat font insert? Want to put one on a 5513, but I'm not super impressed with his. Are there other options (besides Gen; want to stay in budget)? Would a gen '70's 5513 even have the fat font? I keep reading that most have been replaced with newer inserts, but can't seem to get a definitive answer on which years started with the fat font ones in the first place.

I chuckled. It's true. Sad, but true. That shaved T39 looks great too - before going GS I wondered if it was possible to shave w/o losing the profile. Thanks! HR nailed the lume. I just matched his dial for the pip and hands.

...on first open, with very little force. Didn’t even get the plastic off. Any fixes that will withstand use? How’s the real one done?

There’s a curve but man is it subtle. Here’s one in really good shape from 1984: https://omegaforums.net/threads/rolex-submariner-5513-maxi-dial-full-set-and-unpolished.74884/

Ah hah, I see it now. Going to try and bend the curve in. Let’s see how terribly that goes.