e30m3

Looks good! Can you post some 3/4 shots? (Meaning, you've got square on, and 90 degrees, can you get a shot in between? I want to get as much an idea of the height as possible before doing the same thing!

Scratch that - just got it to work. Phone didn't like it for some reason. 120 grit it is.

Sorry, that link doesn’t work for me - can you tell me which grit I’m going for? Thx!

Luck, I'm afraid. Came that way from the factory.

You guys have any luck getting the "factory" machine-finish back on top of the lugs? I can't find a sandpaper that properly mimics the look (I want it to look like the attached pic). Seem to recall having read about Scotch-brite "red" pads (the green ones don't get it quite right, either). Thoughts? Tips?

Great thoughts. The insight is much appreciated. I'm determined to stay with the Cartel case for this build. (My first build ever, so it doesn't make a hell of a lot of sense to break the bank if I might just break the watch itself while trying to mod it!) I'll shape and I'll shape to get it as close as I can, and then I suspect what will happen is, knowing myself (and I suspect anyone who considers themselves a "watch nerd," I won't be able to live with the imperfections. Then I'll consider a new project with a better case. But I want to have those realizations myself, so that I'm aware of what I'm paying for when I drop the cash to go to a better case/etc. As for the Cartel bezel, the entire assembly flew off the minute I took the watch out of the plastic wrap. The crystal had a rubber O-ring. The insert is really bad; both the font and the way it seems to angle upward toward the center of the dial (if that makes sense). The list goes on. Does the real deal sit flat? That brings up the other point - I suspect you guys have had a lot more experience with the real thing than I have. Going off internet pictures alone makes it tough to spot differences that may appear easily in real-life (particularly when you have multiple in hand to compare with). I digress, though; the point seems to be that I'll notice a significant enough difference with... Say.... A Clark bezel (because, as I mention, I'm not spending Phong money on this watch) to make it worth it. Si?

I've been pouring over threads that suggest: 1. WSO bezel assembly is no longer dependable quality-wise 2. ST and Watchman408 have good options ($90 and $80 respectively, with the latter including the insert) 3. Clark you gotta polish and is hit or miss But what's the reasoning behind changing the whole shebang (as opposed to just the insert)? Do I need to do this to have an accurate 5513?

I need to file down the lugs on one of my watch cases. In doing so, I'll lose the (Chinese) factory chamfer. It's a "Rolex," so the top of the lugs are brushed, and the chamfer/sides are mirror. The lines are very sharp; the chamfer appears to be 45 degrees or so and it's an abrupt transition. How do I restore the chamfer after filing the lugs down? TIA.

Sorry about the first photo resolution - I left it in because you can still see what I'm talking about. Came out well - ignore the finish; was just sanding down some unwanted extrusions. Question is, don't the holes look awfully close to the end of the lug horns? All I did was enlarge the existing holes to 1.3mm... Thanks!

Saw those but am looking for feet first.

As the title says, I'm looking for a good feet first dial for my 5513 project. I see that Yuki has some, but that they're for "Rolex movement only." Is that what everyone is talking about when they say "clip the dial feet?" Any other issues, like the center bore size? Any better options? TIA.

Yeah. I just bought the other gold one. The black diver face one appears to have a brassier balance wheel. But what do I know. Anyone in the US recommended?

Roger that - looks like I'll be ordering one of the Philippines movements. Thanks!

Cool, I think I’ll go for it. What did a service cost?

As the title reads... Looks like NOS movements can be had for $185ish, and questionable “Swiss Military” used ones on eBay are $55ish. Either one will need a service, so get the cheaper one? Or is there a better place? Is there one that WON’T need a service?

Gotcha. So you’d have no major concern with these cg’s? They’re shape-able, that is? ...I’m asking in an effort to determine whether I should keep the watch or send it back... leaning towards keeping it as I intend to modify it anyway. crystal slid right out, btw. All the pieces desribed are there, plus a really thin white plastic spacer. Ever seen that? Super brittle.

Forgive my ignorance (the watch is at home and I’m out) - the crystal is meant to mount to the watch, and the bezel then grabs the crystal?

You guys think I should try to return it? Or make it work?

So, I go to pull the static plastic crystal protector off my new 5513, and the crystal and bezel right come off together (they're still together, as one unit). Can you guys look at the pics and tell me how the hell they were even attached in the first place? That rubber O-ring is just that - an O-ring. I see no remnants of glue but the bezel/crystal will not press-fit back on. So then, I figure, pull the bracelet off and look for the "SAINLESS STEEL" 1665 case. But it's a 1680 case, with "STAINLESS STEEL" lasered (beautifully, I must say) between the lugs. Does that mean that this is NOT a cartel V2 (as I'd specifically ordered), and is a V1? Or is it something else? Will I be able to make the best possible cartel rep from this case? Finally, your thoughts. Should I go to the trouble of sending it back? Is it fixable? Is it better to start with the 1665 case anyway? Frustrated. Thank you.

Jack, you sure you don't want to just mail me your watches? Surely you're getting sick of them by now... I like the look of the service on the 1665 too - goes with the thicker case nicely. Anyone have any experience with the Ofrei T39(s) on this page? Tempted to try one. http://www.ofrei.com/page419.html

Man, I really would have preferred a "Oh - there's this one for five bucks that's just as good!" but I'll have to concede. Jack - both of those crystals are going for the original (not service) profile, right? I can definitely see the rehaut diff... How about on the Tropic 39's (not service cut)? Same situation there? Does Ofrei have something decent? I can't tell from the site's descriptions. I'm afraid of dropping the $97 on the CWP, waiting the month, then cracking it trying to push it in!

So, after doing a ton of reading, it would seem to be the consensus that CWP in Hong Kong does the best T19 "Superdome" crystal. Thing is, it's $97 with shipping, and I'm really trying to keep costs down on this one (a cartel 5513). My understanding is that the CWP crystals are not only more faithful to the original Rolex profile, but are more clear, too. But my question is, who's second best? The Clark "Superdome" crystal is $17 shipped, which as I'm sure you're all aware is eight Old-Fashioneds cheaper. Is it THAT much worse? And as long as we're on the topic, what's wrong with the cartel crystal (flame suit on)? Thanks!

Thanks everyone - out comes the Dremel!

Long story short, a buddy gave me a fake 16600 Sub back in 2004 - I just found it in the closet and was thinking of using it for Dremel practice. But before I do, I thought to have you guys take a look. Make sure I'm not about to Dremel up a potentially nice case! Second question, for the experts - is it worth considering using this case to build a 5512/13 rep (be gentle; n00b here)? TIA!

god i love that watch. is that yours?