bbell6

Several different dealers have 5517 replicas. Are all of the 5517 replicas the same?

I thought all triplocks had an O-ring on the tube (my '94 sub does)? I guess that shows how much I know. The crown package is labeled: 241 24-702-0 T-03 Rolex Its in a green and white package. From what I can tell without opening package, the crown threads appear to line up with the tube. I tried to take pictures but my camera isn't working.

It's definitley not a triplock tube.

It came with a Rolex triple locking crown. I haven't taken the crown out of its package yet, incase I decide to sell it. The auction language was as follows: "You are bidding on a Submariner Replacement Case # 5513 Rolex Movement CAL. # 1530, 1520. This is includes: Case (1), Caseback (1), Bezel Stainless (1), Insert Bezel -Black/Silver (1), Crystal # 25-19 (1), Crown (1), & Tube (1) SOLD AS IS ! ALL SALES ARE FINAL !!! Thank you for visiting." The only thing that I suspect is original is the crown (it is still in the package) and possibly the crystal and/or tube. The insert is definitely not original. There are signs that the outer edge had to be filed to make it fit. I'm sure the remaining parts are all aftermarket

I don't have a 1520 movement to try. I'm meeting "Justasgood" for lunch today, maybe he will be able to shed some light on the case.

I tried to send you an e-mail but your box was full. I'm interested in a white 1680 and/or possibly a vintage explorer 1 and/or a 5513 military depending on what is available. Thanks

Eunomians, When I was referring to "cost" not being an issue, I was referring to the tools. Meaning that I wanted to purchase high quality tools as you were suggesting. Not that cost wasn't an issue with regards to the watch. I'm going to have to agree with you on altering a 5513. If I buy a genuine 5513, I won't screw with it. I was just wanting to play with building a replica. I bought the replacement case without really thinking it through. I logged on to ebay and there were two minutes left and it looked like a good price (based on what I'd seen others go for - but I really didn't know what I was buying). I got it for $335. I was just wondering if I should try to build a replica with it or buy an MBW and start from there. Or, maybe buy one of the MBW military 5513's that I saw in TTK's photobucket for the group buy (I think this is a 5517 and I do like that look which I believe you were referring to) The advantage to using the replacement case (at least from my point of view) is that I could always pop in a rolex movement later if I found a great deal on one. If not, I could just be happy with an ETA. Of course, this is assuming that the replacement case is worth a crap. The bezel doesn't operate the way I would think an original would (I've never seen a 5513 in person - I'm basing my statement on my '94 sub). It moves in both directions and there is no click. It just feels like metal on metal and is extremely stiff. Additionally, the bottom edges of the case and the inside of the lugs are quite sharp. Hopefully, this post clears up my intentions. Thanks

Disclaimer I am a complete novice, I've never even taken the back off a watch. So this is definitely a situation where I'm just jumping in to the deep end of the pool and I'm either going to sink or swim. Any assitance would be greatly appreciated. I'll apologize upfront for the dumb questions that I'm sure I'll ask. I recently purchased a replacement case off of ebay. It may or may not be any good. I'd like to get people's opinion as to whether this case is worth fooling with or whether I should just scrap it. It is supposed to be for a 5513 and was built to hold a 1520 or 1570. My thoughts are that I would start with an ETA movement and possibly one day upgrade to a rolex movement. In addition to your opinions on the case, I'd also like some recommendations on necessary tools. I'm not so worried about cost as I am interested in quality. If I can make this first project work, I'll probably build other watches and would rather have good tools upfront rather than having to repurchase later because I went cheap to begin with.

I've been getting it constantly today.

I really appreciate your assistance. I may have paid a little more than the case was worth, but I knew it wasn't genuine. With shipping, I paid $335. It includes a case, back, bezel and insert, and what I believe to be a genuine tube (already installed), crown, and crystal (I had been watching two similar cases from two different sellers and had verified information with one of them - I signed on to ebay and realized that there was only about a minute left before the auction ended and in my haste purchased the one from the seller that I had not contacted - big blunder on my part). If I'm correct, I need to pick up a movement, dial, hands, and stem. I'm not sure if the cg's have been moded, but I believe it is a 1:1 case. As you eluded to, it is prepped to take a 1530 or a 1520. My thought is that I will take my time finding the genuine Rolex movement and pick up an ETA for the time being (assuming I wouldn't have to make any modifications - and it sounds like I'll just need a spacer). I've never purchased a rep before and am new to all this. I've just been reading this board for a couple of weeks and wanted to try something. I guess the next thing for me to do is buy some tools and possible take the online Time Zone watch classes (any advice on those classes?). This project may end up being an expensive lesson, but as you say, I'll have the pride of knowing I assembled the watch. Additionally, I should learn more about Rolexes (specifically the 5513). This will probably pay off in the long run if I decide to buy a genuine. It has been quite interesting reading the post on this site. I would say that people on this board know far more about Rolexes than most of the people who own the real thing (Of course, it sounds like quite a few people on this board do own the real thing). I have genuine sub that I bought from an AD in '94. But to be honest, I probably couldn't tell the difference in it and one of the unmoded replicas without holding them side by side. Once again, thanks for your assitance, Ben

I purchased a case for a 5513. Does anyone have any suggestions as to the best ETA movement for completing this watch? I've tried to determine what ETA movements were used in the tudor subs, but it appears that more than one may have been used over the years.

From your answer, I assume that means that a person is just as well off to buy a replica and work from that case? Unfortunately, the auction I was watching ended a little earlier today and I couldn't help bidding. I got lucky and won (or as it turns out I may have been unlucky). I guess that's what happens when you don't know what you are doing and you are impatient on top of that.

I'm new to this forum, and was hoping someone could help me out. I've seen quite a few Rolex Replacement Cases on Ebay. Usually a stainless case that has been augmented with a few genuine Rolex parts (i.e. crown, tube, crystal). These replacement cases sell from between $300 and $1500 depending on the model. Are they that much better than the replica cases discussed on this forum? I'm a little confused as to why they cost as much or several times more that a complete replica. Could anyone enlighten me? I suppose it would help if I explained my intended usage. I am not trying to build the perfect replica. In fact, I'm not as much interested in a replica as a high quality Rolex style case that I can convert into a one of a kind watch . I was thinking of piecing together a watch. Maybe a black sub bezel with a white Explorer II face. Therefore, I'm not as interested in whether the crystal sits a little too high or too low, or if the crown guards are accurate, but rather whether the case feels solid and takes genuine parts. Thanks in advance, Ben