bbell6

If you call me Canadian, I won't get upset. I've been watching a lot of the travel channel in the past 24 hours. They were following a young guy who was traveling around the world for a year. Along the way, they were interviewing other young travelers he ran into on his trip. Apparantly, most of the travelers have a flag patch on their backpack to let you know where they are from. They commented that there were very few Americans (based on the flag patches) and a lot of Canadians. One of the Canadians they interviewed, was from California.

I assume a limited run dial (100 pieces) will obviously cost more than a regular rep dial. However, never having bought a regular rep dial, I don't even know what they cost. I agree that I don't mind spending more for quality. I was just looking for a ballpark figure so I would know how many of these dials I could afford to purchase. Maybe someone with experience with one of these types of projects could help me ballpark the cost. Are we talking: 1) Under $100 2) Between $100 - $200 3) More than $200 If there are still too many variables, I understand. Thanks

This may in fact be a cultural thing. I've noticed that most (but not all) of the people who have responded so far are not in the US. I, for one, do not find the e-mail in question rude or offensive. It is merely straight to the point. In both Law School and Business School I was taught to get straight to the point. Within the past two years, my wife and I have both started jobs where we deal with more Europeans via e-mail. The first thing I noticed was the use of greetings and salutations. I started trying to reply in the same manner. Prior to my wife starting her job, she was reading one of my responses and questioned why I was using the salutation "Best regards". I responded that I was trying to emulate their writing style. After starting her job, she commented to me that she understood the e-mail thing now. She said that Europeans she deals with are far more likely to say "Hi" or "Hello" and usually end with "Best regards". Although I consider both of us to be very friendly in person, I think our writing style often lacks the niceties that are used in other parts of the world (or country for that matter). Hopefully, I've never offended anyone in this manner. If so, I apologize.

Thanks for the advice. I did a little research and the place looks beautiful. Looks like it is close enough that I can do a day trip and scout things out while she is in meetings. If it turns out to be as good as it looks, we may spend a couple of her free days exploring the area. On previous trips, we've been to Venice, Florence, and Rome. This will be our first time in Milan (we have to be there for 4 days). The other 4 days of the trip (2 before Milan, and 2 after) we will be free to do as we please. Thanks again

I wouldn't want to be tested on the subject, but understand the concepts. It makes sense, and the car example helped. Thanks, B

Not sure yet, but I may be in Milan for a week in May (wife's business trip - I'm just along for the ride) and was wondering if it is feasible to try and take a day trip into Switzerland to either shop for watches or tour a watch factory. Is there a certain city or region that is better for shopping? What factories have tours and in what areas are they located? Any assistance would be appreciated.

This may be a dumb question, but why are the automatics so much more fragile than the handwinds? I can understand that the larger pocket watch style movements (due to their size) might be more durable, but I assume there must be something different in the design that is causing the addtional wear on the automatics. Could someone elaborate?

No one has mentioned cost yet, and since this thing hasn't really gotten off the ground, it may be a bit premature. However, just wondering if anyone has a ballpark idea as to cost per dial? I think this may help guage interest more accurately.

Are we talking about doing both the 1A and 2A or just the 1A or the 2A? I'm really interested in the 2A, but am a bit indifferent about the 1A (for some reason I just don't like the little second hand - it throws off the symmetry). Anyway, this would be important to me. I'd probably buy a 1A, but would purchase several 2As (depending on the price, up to 6+).

My 2 cents. I only see keeping a watch as an investment if you also get some use out of it (generally there are better investments for your money than watches). Therefore, if you are going to wear the Omegas or get other satisfaction from owning them, then keep them. If you are going to get more wear and enjoyment out of the Panerai, then either make the trade or sell the Omegas and buy the Panerai. It should be the value to you that is important, not the value to others. However, just don't change your mind after the trade

Not exactly. I asked Joshua if he could still get the 02B and he said it had been discontinued. I then asked if he could just sell me a dial from the 09PVD and he said no. At that point I came to the conclusion that he didn't allow you to order off the menu.

Someone correct me if I get this wrong, but hopefully this helps.

Not that I know very much, it is obvious from my post that I don't. But the whole reason I joined this forum was to keep from getting ripped off when I buy genuines. Funny thing is that I don't go to the genuine boards as much now. You learn a whole lot more here.

I'm definitely in for at least 2 dials and probably more. I don't mind buying extras to get this thing done.

Can't say I associated watches with being Macho. Most of the people I know wear cheap watches (Fossil, Tommy Bahama, or the like - a $300 rep would be an upgrade - and these people can afford the good stuff). The ones with good watches are normally wearing a Rolex (especially true at the last place I worked). I've only seen one PAM. I believe it was a white dialed daylight. The gentleman wearing it was about 75 years old. I could be wrong but I dont' think very many people wear replicas in the area where I live.

Sounds like the rep PVD cases are pretty bad. Too bad I can't find a version of this watch with a SS case.

Thanks for the input. However, I was buying the watch for everything but the case. Planning on dropping into a Jimmy Fu case and converting it to a PAM 02.

Looks like there is about a $70 ($188 vs $258) difference between the two on Josh's web page. Is the swiss movement worth the extra $$$. How close is it to the real movement in appearance? Thanks.

Update I went to the local post office that sold me the insurance today. I showed them the paperwork and the letter I recieved along with the $52 check. Two of the postal workers and their supervisor reviewed the documents and said that I should send in a written appeal. It was their impression that the person responding to me was basing their decision on a package without insurance. They thought my appeal was a slam dunk. Although I was happy to hear their opinion, I won't be counting on anything unitl I see the money.

Thanks for the help. That is what I need to know.

It may be difficult to find, but the older version watch with the slow beat movement seamed to have a better slide rule. If possible, combining the two watches would give you the best of both worlds. I purchased the older style and have been planning on swapping to a swiss 7753 and a genuine dial (I just haven't found the dial yet) I've heard people refer to the Bob straps (never had one), but I think you would be hard pressed to beat the newer deployant rep straps (especially at $38 plus shipping - for about $90 dollars you can get both a black and brown croc printed leather straps shipped). These straps are very thick. Compared to the genuine calf deployant they are actually a little thicker and stiffer (I prefer them to the genuine calf). I don't have a genuine croc deployant, put comparing them to a genuine croc tang, they may be slightly stiffer (genuine croc is stiffer than calf). See pictures below

Is anyone familiar with this Navitimer dial? What model watch did it go in? Very Rare and Original "NUMBERED" Breitling NAVITIMER Chronograph Mens Wristwatch Dial in NEW OLD STOCK. Circa: 1970s-90s Special Dial: Printed with No. 106 ... see image Dial Feet Position: 7 minutes and 41 minutes approx Dial: Original Black Dial with Silver background printing. Printed with T SWISS MADE T Measurements: 31.8 mm aprox Case Reference: Unknown Calibre: Valjoux 7750 or similar Overall Condition of Dial: Excellent New Old Stock

Any Ferrari experts out there? I'm considering building a Ferrari 00013. Any opinions with regards to this watch? What about the accuracy of the rep that I would be starting with? I like the looks and it doesn't have the date window issue. Picture of the movement

This one with the black buckle would probably look good. BTW, I could be talked out of this one.

Couldn't you just use a pair of bolt cutters and cut the existing buckle out? Then purchase a screw in replacement?