bbell6

Is Andrew the only dealer who carries this watch?

I'm not as familiar with these historic models, but do they have the same cannon pin issues and poor lume. I know a watch that is supposed to be old wouldn't have much lume, but since it is a fantasy watch anyway, I want LUME

I agree, it is misleading. However, he at least does have the paranthetical letting you know that it is mineral glass. I don't know if this is a change due to the previous uproar or if it was always described in this manner. However, I am in total agreement, "Synthetic Sapphire" has an understood meaning.

Thanks for the input. I think it is the mini-Fiddy case, but I'm not sure. Yes, I knew it was a fantasy watch and that is fine with me. I just wanted to know if people had bought the watch and it had problems (like the crystal issue). Good to know that I can get the crystal from CousinsUK. I might want to buy one when I buy the watch just in case.

Its listed as: FRONT GLASS: Synthetic Sapphire (Mineral Glass)

I like the looks of this watch and am considering purchasing it. However, prior to purchasing, I thought I'd ask if there are any negatives associated with this watch that I should be aware of? Thanks in advance for you input.

Please Delete

It just seemed really odd to me that the dial in the picture was much closer to the rep dial on my watch than to the genuine watches that I've seen in pictures.

Glad to hear it still has some life. I'm pulling for a 2A.

I don't suppose we have found a dealer yet? Is this thing dead in the water?

Ok, that makes sense. The rep manufacturers tried to copy what was on the site and the production model looks different. Thanks

Thanks for the input regarding the additional flaws. But do you agree that issues 2 through 4 described above don't appear that far off when comparing them to the dial on the Panerai site?

A very accurate PAM 112 - Sandwich Dial (Common, Simple, Believable).

I voted for the rep + cash. Having said that, I've been considering a genuine for about 6 months. I'm still on the fence, and will probably remain there for at least another six months. If I come across a good deal, I might jump to the other side. However, If I can find a good dial and a Jimmy Fu crown guard or pick up one of V's project crown guards before I find the good deal, I'll remain on the rep side. My goal is to eventually be able to take my watch apart and service the movement myself (I'm going to do the TZ watch class when I have time). With that in mind, I want a good rep. I'm not foolish enough to attempt working on a genuine.

I was under the impression that the regular rep sandwich dial was inaccurate for several reasons. But to name a few: 1) 2 is not correct 2) Luminor is slightly higher than it should be 3) Panerai is slightly lower than it should be 4) "L SWISS MADE L" is too close to the 6 Maybe I've got some of these wrong. This may have been discussed before, but I stumbled across a picture on the Panerai web page that makes me wonder about numbers 2, 3, and 4. Panerai Web Page. When the web page comes up, click on the Luminor pic. The picture that comes up is a left handed base. This dial looks a lot like the one in my 112 replica.

Great information, right on point. I just wish I'd seen it before I screwed up. How to do it: Open the setting lever screw 1 to 1.5 turns only! Why is this red? Because if you open that screw and the screw disconnects from the setting lever, you will have take off the dial and hands in order to assemble it again! This is one of the most common traps for amateur watchmakers and of course I stepped into it once or twice too even I knew exactly 1 to 1.5 turns only. It normally happens if you open that screw 1.5 turns and the stem does not move out even you pull firmly. Instead of opening the setting lever screw 2 or more turns and ending up having to take off the hands and dial, WIGGLE the stem a bit while pulling it. The stem's collar has to slip under the retaining setting lever. Even better: open the setting lever screw one turn and then try to pull. Add another half turn and pull again. If the stem still does not come out, push the stem/crown completely in and out again, sometimes this will free it too. In any case, do not open the setting lever screw too much, if you did, you willl have to follow this link: how to remove hands and dial in order to rearrange the setting mechanism in its original position.

I appreciate the link. I'll do some reading and hopefully find what I need. If not, I should at least learn something that I can use at a later time. Thanks again. B

Would it help if I posted a picture? I'm not sure my camera will capture that much detail, but I can try.

How difficult is it to find a Rolex GMT movement (either a 1575, 3085, 3185 - I think those are the right calibers)? And if you can find one, what is the going rate?

I remember reading that on his web site on one of my first visits. Thought it was odd considering that most businesses would prefer that you send an e-mail rather than calling (they consider it a cost savings). I just assumed he was one of those individuals that was being dragged into the internet era kicking and screaming. From a customer retention standpoint, it is baffling. I'm just curious if he has ever actually tried to charge someone that fee, and if anyone has ever paid it. Nevertheless, I have a bought a few things from his website and everything has went smoothly (I really like the ergonomic bergeon screwdrivers). Now that I think about it, I actually bought a bergeon spring bar tool along with replacement tips, from someone else recently. I can't remeber the name now, but was impressed that they included extra replacement tips beyond what I ordered at no charge (this was not a mistake - they referenced them). I know I still have there business card at home.

Thanks for the assistance. Ben

Previously I've purchased Bergeon Screwdrivers from Ofrei that were great. I also purchased a case opener off of ebay that was a Chinese made version of the larger Bergeon and the quality was lacking (putting it nicely). Based on this experience, I assume it is best to buy Bergeon or similar quality brand. However, just wondering if it is best to go with Ofrei, or if there are other better alternatives. (I'm looking for just the basics - tweezers, hand pulling tool, cusion etc.) I would appreciate anyones experience or input. Thanks B

In removing the stem on a 6497, I apparantly lossened the screw too much. There is a small piece that the screw appears to screw into that is loose. It sits under the three and pokes out from under the dial a little. I'm not really sure how to get it back in position so that I can put the screw back in place. Any suggestions? Do I have to remove the dial?

@ PAMman - I understand exactly what your saying about the cost, I just wanted ballpark or best guess at this time. Having worked for a label printing company, I realize that design, start up and waste can be a large portion of the cost of a short run. I also understand that things change and nothing is guaranteed. However, I think it is beneficial to have a guide. Working in Finance/Accounting I know that a lot of ideas get thrown out and then when I get involved and tell people what something is going to cost, they reconsider. I also understand what you are saying about the 5128/201A project. I followed that post with a lot of interest. Some people praising the effort and success while others were trying to offer constuctive criticism. Unfortunately it sounds like the praise won out.

I'm originally from South Alabama. With my accent, I'm a dead giveaway.