mojo2001

Clarks dome 39 is really very nice and worth the price. I'm wearing one now (on a watch, of course). I have tried the Helfands flat 39 and it is nothing to write home about...but not bad as a budget solution. I say go for the CWP dome!!

The mag on a 1680 is way higher because the crystal is higher, i.e. farther away from the dial. I have a gen crystal on my MBW and the date FILLS the cyclops. This is the way it is....COOL, huh?

Did the whole stem come out or did the crown unscrew from the stem (or did the stem snap)? Each represents a different repair job. If the crown simply unscrewed, that would be the easiest one to fix...a pulled out stem could be an easy fix unless the keyless works are screwed up, then it is a moderately complicated fix, probably requiring a watchmaker's aid

After installing a gen crown and tube on my MBW 1665, it appears the stem is too long. I can't get the crown to screw down and the cause appears to be that the crown will not push in deeply enough to engage the threads on the tube. Need to get the crown in by few more mm. My question: What is the best way to cut a threaded stem to least distort the threads? Any hints appreciated mojo

That same watch was listed by the same seller a few weeks ago. Discussed on RWI Scams section at the time. If it is NOT the same watch, that is even more suspicious...how many Daytonas did this guy buy back "in the 80s"?? mojo

Man, I like that effect... "Rolex" indeed looks good! What about if, instead of using a sanding cylinder on a dremel--rigid and can't "dig" into the letter--you use a piece of fine emery cloth on the tip of your finger or some other flexible sanding medium that will get down into the nooks and spread out the top of the engraved letters? I am thinking about the fiberglass fiber sanding "pens" but that would require a mask so that not too many microscopic fibers are inhaled in the process. Maybe even a rough ink eraser...or some emery cloth wrapped aound a pencil eraser? Anyway, good work Bro! I can't tell you how much I appreciate your experimentation so we can all learn from your mistakes and successes! mojo

Lookin good!!! Are they the Clark Tudor hands? I like em.

I had one and must say that that Silix "Cartier" is pretty nice as the general run of vintage cn reps goes. Otherwise, you're right...ain't much around.

Changed the crystal on my 1680 in 20 minutes. However, I'm a bit stuck with my DRSD. I can't get the crystal retaining ring off. Usual method of prying it up with razor blade to get started following with a stout knife is getting me nowhere. Crystal ring is totally flush with case and I can't find even a slight crevice to wedge a prying device between the ring and the case. This thing is well put together, I'll say that much... Anybody have any tips?

Freddy...I hear what you are saying about the dials. It would be nice to have a crystal that would turn the MBW "SEA DWELLER" text the right color of cherry red, wouldn't it? I was looking more at the black. The spurious reflections and haziness of the stock crystal don't even do the MBW dial justice. Anyway, screw it....I'm gonna go buy a Clark and at least take that step in the right direction! Thanks for all the interesting SD discussions!

Thanks for the pics!! I can see how the Clark enhances the color and visuals of the dial while the stock MBW seems to cloud up the image. I notice the same thing on my DRSD....and I saw a parallel change when I put a gen 127 on my WM 1680. Suddenly the dial sort of clicked into focus. The stock MBW plastic is funky...doesn't seem clear and smooth. Also quite soft and easy to scratch compared to gen acrylic I noticed...but whattaya expect, I guess. Does the Clark have the well polished look of a gen crystal? Does it catch the light and sparkle like a gen? This notion of material quality to me is more important than exact geometry. From these pics, I'd say the Clark looks fairly promising.

Fascinating...especially since I am in the market for a good T39...not too impressed with the Helfands 9 buck job sitting here on my desk for the last two months. Compared with the gen 127 on my 1680, the plastic looks like junk. The gen is so clear and sparkly in comparison. Does anybody have pics of the Clark 39 on a watch, illustrating the effects of the distortion? I'm tempted due to price and easy availability.

Great post! I have a PR-516 black dial like this on a black kevlar strap. This is indeed a nice watch!! You inspired me to wear mine tomorrow. I see the leather strap versions on ebay for around $200 and at discount retailers online for under $250. I think this might be a discontinued model, available at attractive prices...well worth it. I really like that white dial version with the "rally style" metal bracelet! Excellent choice!

I don't know if it the BEST way, but I took edges off a bracelet yesterday using a medium-fine file. I tried using emory cloth on this one especially "edgy" bracelet and it didn't do the trick. A file used carefully got me closer to where I want to be. Next step will be dremel buffing wheel. Anybody have a tested scientific approach?

I don't know, Mon....that caseback does not look like it was re-engraved to me. Totally perfect and even in all dimensions. When pros engrave stuff like that they use stencils or a pantograph driven by a stylus riding in a stencil. NOBODY could do that freehand, I don't think. How about polexpete's suggestion of sanding and buffing. That seems like a recipe to enlarge the opening at the top of the letter a bit. Downside risk is certainly lower. Otherwise, I'd ask somebody who engraves for a living what they think.

I bought some generic gaskets on ebay...assumiing that the one that fits the crystal is the same as the one that fits the caseback (think so), the pn is 29-325-10. I have a couple extras...pm me. mojo

I had a set of metal stamps with 1/4" letters and numbers that I tried to use to mark tube numbers on amplifiers that I was building. The materials I tried to use were soft aluminum and roof copper sheet, also quite soft. I clamped the metal (which was flat) to a piece of soft wood before stamping. My experience was that I could get maybe HALF of the numbers looking good with a whack from a small sledge hammer. The problem is that you only get one shot. I could not get a good second impression if It didn't work the first time. Most of the problem letters were deep on one end and light on the other,...maybe the way I was holding the die....they were like 3" long chisel looking things. I think the problem I mention could be worse with a big COMEX number. You would have to hit that sucker dead on. You guys might think I like heavy tools since I'm always saying get a 75 drill press, buy a Hydraulic press... I think that a press is way better than a whack with a hammer. Even a rig up with a vise that will press the numbers into the case would have a lot more control. At the very least, I'd be looking for a way to hold the stamper in place instead of my hand. I sure like the idea though! A bit of experimentation on different materials will let you know what the real challenges are.

I'm with avitt on the engrave then polish scheme. I think whatever they used to stamp those letters weighed as much as a car and may well have stamped the whole caseback out of a sheet of SS at the same time that it was impressing the lettering. No way you could do that with a hammer. Cast iron hydraulic press, perhaps... I think you would be looking at 8 or 9 k to get dies made up for this sort of work at a high level of precision. Engrave and grind would be a definite step in the right direction..

Very cool He valve project...I read that before. I salute people who can drill and saw "freehand" ...maybe I'm too many expressos and funny cigarettes over the limit, but when i was building in metal a lot, I quickly realized I did not have the magic touch. When I got a real drill press and various cutting fluids, I messed up a lot fewer projects. Either a drill press or I use an old-fashioned hand crank drill..don't laugh...I found it a lot more accurate than high speed electric drills!! My De Walt will rip through anything, too fast sometimes and not exactly in the place I wanted to rip through!! I raided my grandfathers toolbox for some 1950s vintage elbow grease tools. Slowed down to enjoy the trip and got better results. If I screwed up my 1680, I would cry.

I am in the same boat...sold my drill press before moving to East Coast. I have a couple lug holes to drill myself. I wouldn't even think of doing it with a hand drill in one of those holder things. A 75 drill press is what you want! You want a solid stable system. Believe me it makes a huge difference, especially when drilling tiny holes in metal. If the bit wobbles at all it can bind and break. You also need a very stable vise or clamp. Line everything up dead on with a thin bit that will go all the way through existing holes. It's scary because if a bit breaks off in the hole, that could really screw up a good MBW case! I am a lousy machinist, which is why I try to at least use the right tools!

I have tried to use those drill holders in building electronic gear. They are really not very stable. I'd forget about doing any precision work with them. Even if you bolt them to a heavy support, they are still jittery. They are more useful for spade bits or hole saws in WOOD--suck working with metal, even soft aluminum. You would be much better off with a cheap or used real drill press--especially with skinny bits. Check recommended speed for the job and see if you can find one that goes slow enough. Make sure you wear goggles!

Why do you need a flat top "3" stamp...can't you simply pick a number that doesn't have "3" in it?

Any recommendations on a source for crystal retaining rings for a vintage MBW? Only thing I found was a complete Bezel assembly for way more than I need to spend at the moment! Thanks for info! mojo

I admit that I am not a "big watch" nut but rather wear a lot of 40-42mm watches....Subs and the like, SMP, etc. To me, the smaller size of the Explorer is part of the clean and classic look..it is what it is. With the oyster band, it totals up to a fair chunk of metal and is in no danger of getting lost on your wrist. I think it it looks very well balanced size-wise. I also like wearing the Exp1 with a long sleeve shirt and a sportcoat, where an MBW DRSD or even a mod Sub makes a huge bulge and gets caught up on the cuff. I love mine and I'd recommend it without hesitation. A CLASSIC!

Speaking as an electronics dude, the wiring in that apparatus looks more than adequate. Thicker wire would be necessary in a high current application, which this is NOT. The "wax" drizzled over the inputs is actually hot glue. Most speakers and other devices built in particleboard enclosures use lots of hot glue. Why? it is cheap and fast and sticks like a mofo to anything. Switches are designed to pressure fit securely in sheet metal enclosures by "snapping in", but can use some help holding in thick particleboard. The glue will keep them where they belong. When I start seeing hot glue in reps, that is when I'll be concerned!! It's probably only a matter of time... I just bought an Ace Timer watch box on ebay that looks like it was built in the same factory. Hoping to take delivery today. Looked decent in the pics. Enjoy the winder! mojo2001