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Posts posted by jigelow
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Not sure if this one qualifies as "dumb enough" because it's only a few hundred bucks...(only)... or just as incredibly poor taste...
http://www.pure-time.com/product/shock-resist-yg-yellow-gold-dial-on-black-rubber-strap-quartz/
Unfortunately, I know some people that may buy something like that.
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Beautiful build.
Sent from my droptop using telepathy.
Thanks! Its been a lot of ups and downs. My hope when I started was documenting this may help others that want to build their own franken in the future. For me, it was bothering misiekped, Ephry, and others, while finding bits and pieces of info here and on other boards. In the process, I feel I found my home here. Far more helpful and simply awesome people willing to help here. There also seems to be some of the most knowledgeable people I've found in the hobby posting here.
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So I finally got a ST case. I swapped it out yesterday, and something botched in the keyless when I was putting the stem back in. I must not have been completely straight. So last night, I start to tear it down and it completely stops. Frustrated, I just tore down the whole movement and cleaned it up. Got it all back together today and seems to be running fine. While I had it apart, I took the opportunity to darken the hands a bit to try and match the indices. Thanks to Nanuq for the tips.
It has the TC bezel on right now, as I'm waiting for the ST assembly that misiekped did me a solid and ordered for me. As has been stated before, the TC bezel is too loose on the ST retainer and tends to slip on the bezel spring. Its wearable, but will be much better when I get the right one.
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Yup. Verified what we'd thought. Thanks for making the experiment!
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Nice! That nato looks great!
Chrono today, sub tonight. Looking to get some new shoes from Donerix. Any recommendations?
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Well, after four months, I landed a ST3135. After I pick up the bezel, it will all get transplanted.
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Holy sheep [censored], mate. That is perfect! Great job!
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If they went gilt on the dial, the insert text was smaller, and the insert color had more depth, I'd love the CW. I'm a fan of their watches in general and their in house movement is pretty interesting (I realize this one doesn't have it).
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I need to get more creative with my shots.
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This is looking great. I'd sent you a pm about drilling lug holes on a TC, any idea if you'll be offering this for subs?
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337 has silver hands in SS case, no? 338 is gold hands in Ti case.
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It will take some time just to figure out the watch slang forget knowing by a pic. (it was a no brainer though) That being said welcome and hangout it will come to you.
Exactly. I'd also like to add that your knowledge early on will most likely be model dependent. Me, for instance, is more modern Submariners (and I even get those wrong sometimes!), just because I have been building a franken for a while. I'm focused on flaws of that model, so I have learned that model. If you threw a couple PAM111s in front of me, I couldn't tell you the difference.
Early on, you'll want to jump on things like this because you think to yourself, "I don't want to miss out on this if its real", or " I have to jump on this before someone else finds it". As you learn, you'll realize its a game of patience.
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And he got all parts available
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've heard that about him. He's also a great guy and saved my ass during this build with a part and lots of guidance.
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Just finished reading the whole thread. Very usefull information since I am building an early 16610 myself.
I have an Early Sean case with gen case back and fully engraved with drilled lugholes incoming (thanks E), gen dial, TC hand set, gen insert, crown, tube an a WM9 bezel/retainer.
Was planning to use an ETA 2892 movement and a gen date wheel as overlay. But reading this I might go with a Y3135. But then again seing all the mods that have to be made and the risk the y3135 will not work properly I am still on the fence. What are the experiences on the y3135, reliable or not?
Buying a Yuki and sending to misiekped like was mentioned will provide a great reliable movement.
Most of the challenges that arose for me are based on my lack of knowledge (originally) of the Yuki and buying a used movement. It keeps great time, but the date function just didn't work. I felt it was a challenge to figure it out on my own with guidance from the board.
The drive from the beginning for me was to see if I could do it on my own. That's where equal parts satisfaction and frustration came in. Misiekped will be able to provide a fully functional, serviced, and reliable movement for far less headaches and money than I have gone through.
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Well, I think I finally sorted the date change issue. I've pretty much rebuilt the entire date works to gen. Unfortunately, the gen date finger does not sit on the Yuki date wheel because there Yuki nipple is too big. So I bought a gen date wheel. Again, it didn't fit. The cylinder that goes through the date wheel and finger was too big on the Yuki. So gradually expanded the hole in the date wheel with a size 80 drill bit. It now sits on the Yuki pin fine and snaps over cleanly at midnight, which it never has before.
I have a new non-LEC crystal to get a better, more period correct look. I just need to send the midcase to be drilled and I'll be set.
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Man. Goodwill really screwed themselves, there.
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I, for one, had it yanked. Some neophyte was about to drop $700+ on that garbage.
The seller played dumb, saying he wasn't an expert, just getting rid of old things. When I tried to press him as to what, with the power of Google, would lead him to say it was 100% authentic he was gone...
Its the right thing. I didn't look to see how much longer the listing was.
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Looks like the Yuki disc. The gold teeth are a big tell, but numbers are a bit off, too.
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Too bad no one saved a pic for posterity... Already gone.
It had a white dial, basically dot matrix Rolex printing, "serti" indices, one of which fell off, and a display case back showing a Miyota movement with "Rolex scrawled on the rotor. He didn't have box and papers with it, but he guaranteed it was 100% genuine Rolex.
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For the PO, is he referring to the newer Miyota based coaxials?
Building a 16800 Late Transitional Franken - Would appreciate some guidance
in The Rolex Area
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Looking good!
Are you getting the lugs drilled? Did you decide on a Yuki or ETA?