daovto

^^ thanks SSTEEL I was wondering about placing the new movements in their containers in an air tight box. Would that help or hinder proper storage. Apologies this is slightly OT people... Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Looks amazing... and as somebody who likes to add a little age and patina to builds you've given me something to think about with my own JMB 1016 build. The dial/hands look to have come out really well. I know many if the methods but could you share which processes you used on this particular build - dial/hands mainly? Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

I'm going to follow progress here with great interest. It's going to be awesome no doubt... but percentage wise how much will you save over buying an all original 5513? I am enjoying wearing my Rep (picked up here) with some Gen parts... and all the work that has gone into that. But... It has strengthened my desire to have a gen 5513. Perhaps this really is another way. Hope it turns out well sir. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

I'm thinking it's really going to be worth getting hold of some ETA movements before the prices increase even more. And also some spares or movements for spares... if I'm going to continue to build or own ETA based watches. Can anybody chime in with how best to store new uncased movements? Are Seagull ETA clones any better than other Asian clones... or worse? Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Hi, Ive just been pointed in this direction by Jelliotz. I'm on a mission to build a non rep, custom dialled explorer/ranger styled watch based on a 1016 drilled case. I've been considering Yuki but that runs out quite spendy :-) hoping to find so new sources and ideas I'm usually hanging out on WUS BSHT and own a few sub homage and a gen 14060. Also a bit of a Seiko nut... so to share something on my first post here are my two favourites... Anyway it seems I've just jumped down another rabbit hole so I had better buckle up for the ride... Cheers Woz