The Mentalist

King has been on the pipe. There is no way anyone would pay that much for a rep when the gen is not that much more.

So what is that 3035 pic on King's site?

Now that I would buy. Who is this 'trusted dealer' so we can beat his door down?

If only you could buy it. Just what exactly is the story with the 3135 version? Is it something you can buy or not and if not, why the hell is it on King's site?

Then why post it on the site if it isn't? Duh.

Is King's 3135 version actually available?

Does anyone have any pricing from King yet? That 3035 movement looks incredible.

That looks sweet. I'm still trying to get them to make me a leftie Sambora. Hope it looks as good as that badboy.

Sounds like an imperfection in the tube screw thread. If it's going in tight and remains tight, you're fine.

Man, I love this place. That is one sexy strat. US or Mexican?

I'm gonna email them. Jeez, I owe you a big drink. That is a thing of beauty. I saw Sambora rocking that on the New Jersey tour in 1990 and I have had a jones for that guitar ever since.

Don't taunt me so. This has been an obsession that has lasted since the late eighties. Seriously though, any contacts would be mucho appreciated. EDIT: Cheers for that! Now if they only made it in leftie....

I would give my right arm for a Sambora model Kramer 'Jersey Star'. MusicYo sell them but unfortunately being left handed, my choices are somewhat limited. Hell, I would give anything for a left handed Kramer. Anyone have any chinese sources where I can get one made?

Dude, it's not just the inexperienced eye that can be fooled. My TT Sub and Noobmariner from Andrew has fooled an small independent AD. Also every jeweller I took my Daytona's into to get resized refused to do it because after handling it, they said they were real and weren't authorised to work on them. The moral of this story is that only trekkie rep anoraks like us pick up on the infinitesimal details.

You guys rock! Thanks, you've answered my question.

Addendum to this little problem. The remaining screws have fallen out and my bracelet is now in several pieces. Looks like it's not the screws but the holes not being tapped properly as my watchmaker tried several new screws. I told Andrew and kudos to him, he immediately offered to send me a new bracelet. I originally asked for more screws but he insisted on sending me a new bracelet. Almost as if he knew what the problem was. So, a heads up, if you get a TT Sub be wary about the bracelet screws - they can fall out at any time!

About 20 years ago, when I was 13 and had no clue about such things, I went windsurfing with my first 'proper' watch, a 21j Citizen. It said 'water resistant' on the back so I assumed it was ok. Anyway, the thing got totally ruined with water and started running about an hour fast every 5 mins. Distraught, I took it to an old watchmaker called Noel who used to be based in Shepherd's Bush market who took the watch casing off, blasted it with air, took out the mainspring, put into into a clear liquid (I assume it was lubricant), reinstalled it, adjusted it and it has been working fine ever since. The point to all this is that water damage to a mechanical movement is seldom terminal. The worst that can happen is that you need a complete servicing of the movement.

Thanks, that's reassuring. I looked at picture of a gen leather Daytona strap and didn't see any holes. Is the replica Daytona leather deployant strap accurate?

I've just ordered a leather band for my Daytona and it occurred to me: how the hell do I resize the thing? I hope that it is a case of trimming the ends that connect to the deployant clasp but if the clasp is the same as in the bracelet version, I can't see how that can be done. Any tips or pics for me? (I did a search but nothing came up so please don't flame me for being ignorant and/or lazy).

I happen to think the pearl assembly is the weakest thing on a UPO. It's not centered in the triangle, the glass is always shoddily inserted and is usually lobsided and sloping, and the lume is the wrong colour. It is usually the first thing you will get called on.

I just took delivery of my ETA Noob from Andrew and it's nice but just OK in the wearability stakes. For a rep it's awesome but after months of wearing my UPO day to day the Sub just felt small, light and dare I say it, cheap. I totally realise that this is inherent in genuine Subs too but the light, jingly-jangly cheapness of the bracelet puts me right off. My TT Sub feels heavier and more substantial but that may be because of the solid links. That said, it is a remarkable watch but it will never in a million years surpass the PO for feel and build quality.

You may jest but that has happened before...

I've done a visual inspection of the thread and all looks good even after three months of abuse. If it does go Pete Tong, Andrew said he'd repair it. I'll just be careful and hope for the best.

There is a fantastic tutorial on how to fix this problem over at Dark Side: http://replica-watch.info/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25354

Who did you buy it from? I got mine from Andrew and having expressed my concerns he basically assured me he would take care of it if there was any problem. That's good to know.