richard591

Thanks for that. You've just reminded me, I remember being told that many years ago by Rolex when I dropped my gen Sub off for a service. Never bothered to do it with that watch, but will try with the DSSD. The sub is in for a service at the moment, so will be interesting to see just what the 575 euros cost has achieved!! Ironic that you can get a beautiful rep of the DSSD D-Blue like the noob V6s I've just bought for way less than that. Third update on DSSD black. Now, after 3 days from last tinkering, it's running at 7 secs fast compared to my computer clock and that's lying on it's back all night, face up. So, will try the "lay vertical, winder down" tonight and see what happens. At this level af accuracy I regard it as very good and not worth disturbing the back again now it's all been waterproofed. This equates to just over 1 minute a month error if it remains consistent and to be honest my gen Rolex Sub is about the same. After much tinkering I also didn't get my gen Omega Speedmaster Pro Moonwatch any better.

The DSSD (genuine) is fitted as standard with the full glidelock bracelet, which includes the central lift up section allowing for micro adjustment on the wrist. My DSSD D-blue and the DSSD black both have this, as they should to be faithful replicas. The replica sub I also bought has the standard glidelock which just slides when taken off the wrist, but no central lift up section. The DSSD bracelet is also 21mm wide as opposed to all other modern subs at 20mm wide. The DSSD bracelet should therefore not fit a sub as its 1mm too wide. The quality of the bracelet on the DSSD D-blue is outstanding and I know that if you went to Rolex to buy a genuine one it's over £2,000

Second update. No problem. Having got it to +5 secs a day, took the back off again yesterday morning and backed the screw off by approx half a notch. In the past 24 hours it's gained 1 sec against my computer clock. Will be interesting to see if that continues with the likely daily variations you would expect from a non-certified chronometer. Wearing characteristics for me are:- put on wrist at about 8am, then wear for day to about 10-30/11-00pm. Then besdide table until morning with watch lying on its back. Since this is (hopefully) last time I need to take back off for some time also carried out a complete waterproofing as it was re-assembled. This involved making sure the central part of the two piece back seated perfectly in its case groove (required a liitle micro fettling to make perfect) then silicone grease to all parts of the winder tube gaskets, crown gasket and the inner back gasket itself. Also put a little smear on the outer ring inner chamfer to aid tightening down on to the inner part of the back. After this, accidently jumped in the pool yesterday afternoon with watch on. No problem. Still perfect.

Yes, you're correct, it weighs in at 215g after removing 2 links of the bracelet to make it fit perfectly. I wouldn't worry too much about the weight as I got used to it very quickly with the DSSD black edition I had bought a couple of months ago. I also am used to wearing a genuine Sub, which is currently in for its 5 yearly service at Rolex, and the DSSD bracelet is as comfortable as that and also much higher quality as it's the latest type of "glidelock" with micro adjustment. You just have to get used to the fact that the case obviously seems a bit "top heavy" at first. This sensation soon goes and after wearing the DSSD for a month or more I just don't notice it any more. Possibly the only thing you have to get used to long term is the fact that it's easier to catch/bang it on things as you pass by due to the height above the wrist. So, just be aware. Good luck and if you buy one - enjoy. It's a lovely piece of engineering, even if it's only a rep.

Having recently bought a DSSD black from another source I must confess I fell in love with the noob V6 DSSD D-Blue, so decided to buy one of those as well. I bought the D-Blue from Ryan at Intime, a trusted dealer, and have not been disappointed. I was helped in this decision by all those who have recently posted about the same source/supply, so thank you all for the info and comments. Without any doubt this noob V6 watch knocks spots off the original DSSD black I bought from "Forever Watches". It is utterly stunning and I say that being a very long term wearer/owner of the genuine articles. The quality of finish is just faultless and an added bonus is that it's keeping time at about +4/5 secs per day straight away. Bezel is a full 120 clicks and the best I have felt so far in terms of feel and (although bloody difficult to see) the Rolex etched crown logo is there on the crystal at the 6 o'clock position. The bracelet is also of very high quality. My experience of dealing with Ryan was faultess and the whole process from order to delivery (via UK) was about 9/10 days. Payment was by credit card with no problems or delays. I received the promised QA photos with the order number alongside about 2 days after payment was confirmed and looked at them very closely because I had read posts from others wondering if these were only a set of standard/stock photos sent out to everyone. I looked at some of the most recent QA photos published by other members who've bought this model from Ryan on a back to back basis and I can confirm that, although the angles and shots were same/similar, I could clearly see the differences, particularly in the position of bits of the wrapping on the bracelet, the position of the crown and the position of the lettering on the case back. This was all re-confirmed when looking at the actual watch when it arrived and comparing it to the photos again. So far as the price is concerned, it's worth the extra by a long way. So, all in all, I must say this confirms what everyone else who's posted has said. Thanks again to all of you.

Update on my original comments/question. Took the back off and started by adjusting the regulation screw by about 1 notch towards +. This corrected the slow run to just about -3 secs per day from -10 to 11 secs per day. Took the back off again after it had settled down and moved the screw another 2 notches towards + which has resulted in the watch now running about 6 sec per day fast. So, my conclusion is that (at least on this DSSD) with A2836 movement the posts I have read about 1 notch being about 5 secs per day seems about right. Overall I have moved it 3 notches and it's gone from - 10 secs per day to +5/6 secs per day. Hope this is helpful to anyone contemplating re-regulating their own.

After purchasing my DSSD Black with A2836 movement the watch is now settling down after about two months wearing. At first it was approx 15 secs a day slow, but is now consistently about 10 secs, so I assume like any piece of mechanical equipment it's got a running in period. I will soon be dismantling it to completely waterproof and want to use the opportunity to correct the regulation to slightly fast. Am therefore looking for any useful tips or observations from those who've done it themselves. Have read a number of posts in various places suggesting that movement of the adjusting screw by one notch in either +/- direction changes fast/slow regulation by about 5 secs per day. Is that broadly correct? Seems a bit much to me, as I would have thought it might be a bit more sensitive to movement. However, I've never adjusted a 2836 movement before, only an Omega Speedmaster. Any info on this would be greatly appreciated.

As mentioned before, am looking for the best version of a DSSD- D-Blue I can get my hands on. The watches that are on this site seem to be from Noob and at about what I want to pay. Does anyone know Tony Chen? is he a trusted dealer? Only concern is that there is a site - Bestreplica.sr which is a scam site. Any info would be much appreciated again.

Thanks everyone, very helpful. Just ordered from China

Recently bought a rep DSSD which I'm very pleased with. Now need to remove back to check movement, slight regulation (currently running slightly slow) and complete waterproof check/waterproofing. Will need a kit of dies, including the correct 36.5 die for the DSSD, so wondering if anyone has experience of buying the ones off e-bay. There seem to be one or two kits at about £33, but not sure of the quality. Any comments appreciated, including anything to watch out for from those who've done this. Generally, the watch was bought as a 1:1 replica and seems very good quality from the outside.

Hi everyone. Has anybody dealt with Intime Watches? Am looking to source a Sea Dweller Deepsea-Deep Blue which is not on the list of Forever Watches (see my post of Tuesday 5th) but is with Intime. Any comments of dealing with them/quality etc would be appreciated. They appear to be Noob watches, but not sure.

Thanks GenTLe, very helpful, so will have a look.

Thanks for that. Funny as it may seem, I now fancy getting my hands on a Sea Dweller Deepsea - Deep Blue (blue dial fading to black) as well. I could be becoming adicted to this. Any suggestions on a reliable good quality supplier for one of those?

Hi everyone. I’ve decided to write this post specifically on the company “Forever Watches” who are sellers of a range of fakes, including a wide range of Rolex models. I’m doing so because I have recently read a number of posts from people who are clearly not happy with what they got, or the service they received. Firstly let me introduce myself. I’m a long term wearer/owner of genuine Rolex Submariners (about 40 years so far) and am currently on my second, purchased in 2003. My spare is a genuine Omega Speedmaster Pro Moon watch from the exact series which was landing on the moon. Before this year I have never knowingly purchased or owned anything fake in my entire life. It all started with a problem on the Rolex bracelet clasp; it needed replacing, but Rolex wanted to charge me about £650 just for the clasp (whole bracelet only about £850) and wouldn’t send me one where I live in the south of France. So, much annoyed, I started to research possible alternatives. Eventually, I bought a replacement whole bracelet from “Yukiwatch” for $78, fully expecting to be disappointed. When it arrived I was absolutely stunned. The bracelet they supplied could not be distinguished from the original, fitted perfectly with all the parts interchangeable, including the screws. I simply took the clasp with diver’s extension off the new one and fitted it on the original. It’s on my wrist as I write this post; so far so good. My Submariner now needs its second service and I will have to part with it for several weeks and usually I use the Omega while it’s away. However, because I’m so used to the Rolex perpetual movement now I keep forgetting to wind it up and it’s not waterproof for me to wear in the pool either. I therefore looked around for a fake to at least save me from winding the watch up every 24 hours. So that’s where I started to research fake Rolex’s. After some time and many blogs on the subject, I dived in and bought a Rolex Submariner (green bezel and face) from Forever Watches which cost me about £200 with its (supposed) ETA Swiss movement and (again) fully expected to be disappointed. When it arrived I couldn’t believe the initial appearance. After unwrapping copious amounts of protection I gave it to my wife with my genuine and, holding the two side by side, she just said “how the bloody hell do they do that?” Everything about the watch was as you would expect from a genuine in appearance from the quality of the polishing of the case, to the bracelet and all the functions of the movement. The only give away so far is that the bezel is 100 clicks, not the genuine 120, so, now for the testing. Firstly, it was going when I got it and kept time with my genuine (running slightly fast) for the first two weeks of permanently wearing it. Then I took it off to test the power reserve – it lasted for about 40 hours before stopping. I put it back on and it started right up again and hasn’t stopped. The movement has a slightly higher frequency hum to it compared to the genuine, which makes me think it is actually beating at the stated 28,000+ bph. I’m now hooked, so gave this one to my son, who nearly had a stroke when I gave it to him, because he thought it was real until I explain it to him, but he’s still delighted. Having tested the market I now (some may say rather stupidly) decided to buy another for myself as the spare. This time I bought a Sea Dweller Deepsea – black dial. It cost me a little more at about £235 with shipping. Now, could I be lucky a second time? When the watch turned up, need I say it again, it looked to all intents and purposes genuine, but with the usual 100 click bezel being the only external give away. It weighed 220grams, as it should and everything is again interchangeable with a genuine bracelet. The quality of the bracelet is excellent, including the diver’s extension and functioning, with the case as well finished as the other – mirror smooth polishing and everything fitting to a high degree of accuracy. I can only assume that I hit a “lucky day” during the QC testing, or whatever passes off for QC where these things are made; so, now for the second round of testing. Firstly let me comment on the externals. As I said the case and bracelet are excellent. All the hack functions work perfectly, the date changes perfectly, whether manually or automatically and the watch keeps very good time, although this one is running slightly slow. The overall quality of fit for the dial, bezel, hands etc is faultless and the bezel always returns to exactly 12 o’clock when rotated with no excess play. The engraving on the rehaut bezel is clear and can be read clearly from 2 feet away. The engraving on the back is deep and nicely blacked in. The power reserve is measured at, again, 40 hours to stop and then starts up as soon as picked up and worn again. So far it’s keeping very good time. The back is two piece, but I’m sure not made of Titanium as on the genuine. However, it’s very well finished and a good fit. I have not opened up the back on the basis that I’m a firm believer in “if it’s not broke, don’t muck about with it”. However, I’m fairly sure that what’s inside is probably not a genuine Swiss ETA 2836 movement, but an Asian copy – who knows. Nevertheless, it might be a genuine Swiss ETA (if I’m lucky), but until it gets opened up I won’t know. Despite this, if the movement is not genuine and ultimately packs up I would not think twice about sending it off and having a proper one fitted in for about £300+. According to a watchmaker in the UK I spoke to recently he does this from time to time. The reason is that, although I would have spent about £500 by that time, the quality of the case and bracelet is such that it would warrant it. And a new genuine one is currently 11,050 euros. So, for a fraction of the cost I would have at least a good working example which will last. OK, so it won’t go down to 3900 metres. When was the last time you did that, or even the 300 metres for a standard Submariner? If it will cope with the shower or the pool, that's ok for most people. The other thing is that the genuine Rolex (new style) glidelock bracelet with divers extension and central micro adjuster, to the correct dimension of 21mm costs about £2000 and I would not hesitate to put this bracelet on a real Deepsea, if I had one. Now on to the matter of payment/delivery and the transaction. I paid via Mastercard and got a confirmation within 24 hours. About 4 days later I received the confirmation of despatch and a tracking number. This was checked daily and within 4 days it was in France and through French customs. It was delivered the next day, so overall about 10 days from order. This is not bad at all, as I order a lot of stuff from overseas with about the same process time. Because the watches were described as “bracelets” with a customs value well below minimum to incur charges, I didn’t have to pay the courier anything else on arrival. In conclusion, I’m aware that many people don’t have what has been, for me, a surprisingly good experience/result having read some of their blogs. I can only assume this is more down to poor QC in the batch they bought from, because I’m sure most of these watches (regardless of who they come from) are probably made in masses on CNC machines and supplied to and assembled in small sweat shops. This is the only sense I can make of just how the case and bracelet (ignoring the movement for now) can be produced to this quality for the price. So, if you’re buying from anyone else, other than the known reputable few who produce well engineered copies of consistent quality, but twice the price, it strikes me that at this level and cost you may or may not be lucky. Then there are the obvious scammers, such as “Bestreplica” and others to identify and avoid. Well, that’s my recent experience and I do hope this has all been useful to someone. Please forgive me if it’s just repeating everything that’s been said before – I’m new to all this.