richard591

Ditto. I have a Yuki clasp on my gen 93150 submariner bracelet. Fits perfectly and even the Rolex dealer didn't spot it when I had the sub srviced. Just took the Yuki clasp off the Yuki bracelet and swapped them.

Even as I write this it seems like an overly moronic question, but since nobody else asked I'll ask anyway. Did you give it a good primary wind up when you got it, just to kick it off? Not sure of the timing here, but from what you describe, sounds like you got it, put it on for a while with it going, but then went to bed some time later and left it. Maybe it just didn't have enough power reserve for the 8-10 hours or so. I have 3 reps amongst my genuine's and in all cases I gave them a full wind up on reciept, then wore them continuously for several days, including through the night. None have ever stopped, although admittedly all are 2836 based movements. Don't know how good or bad the 7750 is. Just in case you haven't tried the obvious (profuse apology if you have and this is offensive) try winding it up fully, then give it a sharp lateral shake/twist to kick the balance wheel in to action then wear continuously for a few days to check - just a thought and might work. If not, then as Freddy said, sounds like bloody bad luck.

Once again, thanks for the advice guys. As you say, it's probably, or obviously, easier to just swap the existing dial onto the new movement if required. Didn't realise that the date section on the disk was detachable separately, so have learnt something again. Now I look closer at the photo I can actually see the join.

Thanks for that. ssteel, I think you're right. I must confess that when I looked at the photo of the supplied wheel it didn't look to me like it would naturally line up with the DSSD date window. The entire movement with a set of latest super lume hands and D-Blue dial, as fitted to the V6s version, has cost $130. However, still a bit confused about re-installation. As you can see from the photo of my movement, the wheel is a complete disk which covers all the workings underneath. Not a Ring as shown on Timelord's photo. I too have looked at that tutorial, but since it's different I had to seek further advice. So, If bill33 is correct and the full disk comes off by removing a circlip on the central pinion boss, then I assume you just dump that wheel and put the one from the watch (either different or with a DWO) on instead. However, if that's a full disk also, just with a DWO glued on, how do you get to the bits underneath? Or does it just re-attach with the old circlip - which seems the only way to me in those circumstances.

Would appreciate either comments or direction to a tutorial (if there is one) on the following. 1. Removing hands on DSSD/Sub on A2836 (from a previous post). What's the accepted wisdom - puller or lever off? From my days of collecting & rebuilding antique clocks/movements, I always favoured gently lever off. Pulling can often dislodge things. 2. The spare movement for my 3 rep watches is due to turn up any day and when it does I will be dismantling one to familiarise myself with the issues and general layout. As can be seen from the QA photo sent to me the date wheel is a complete disk. How does this disengage? I assume (but don't know) that it's held underneath on a spring loaded latch and the wheel has to be lifted slightly then pulled to one side to disengage. Is that correct? If so, is replacement a simple reverse process, or does something have to be un-screwed? I have seen a tutorial on this on You Tube, but it was on an ETA 2836 with a date ring, not complete disk. However, I assume the A2836, as a copy, is much the same. 3. Part of the reason for wanting to have a look is to check if the date wheel needs an overlay. The spare movement has come direct from NF and they say the date wheel is the exact one fitted in the watches, specifically the V6s DSSD for one. However, language issues have already meant that the "assembled" movement is coming as a kit of parts for assembly. Therefore I need to check everything else, just in case. That's not a problem, because if the supplied date wheel needs an overlay, that will already be on one of the existing movements and can be switched over. Once again, thanks for all the previous advice.

I must confess the most satisfaction I've had recently (which is a bit sad) was walking in to my Rolex dealer in Toulouse wearing the noob V6s DSSD D-Blue. As I switched it on to my other wrist, to put my gen Sub they'd been servicing back on, they couldn't take their eyes off it. So there I was, apparently with 22 grands worth (euros) of Rolex product hanging off me. The boss walked me to the door and politely opened it for me with a cheery smile, ignoring the other customers who clearly wanted to buy something. I got a strange buzz out of that - which was nice!

This is it:-https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/movement-spacer-rings I just copied a photo and sent it to Ryan as an example.

Hi Sogeha. Yes I agree with you and rather ironically I'm currently using the noob DSSD (which I've re-regulated) to actually check the timekeeping on my Rolex sub, which has just returned from service. It's been running at about + 7 secs in 9-10 days so far. Hopefully, this might mean I have a reasonably assembled and lubricated movement. It helps a bit to use the face up or winder up routine at night. I'm hoping I'm going to be surprised with the reliability and so far all 3 are behaving very well. Lets hope it continues.

Thanks for the comments everyone. Am buying the A2836/dial/hands from the TD I bought the watch from - Ryan at Intime. It was supposed to come fully assembled, but as explained isn't, so will have to be done by me. It's just that the spacer ring is missing and I needed to send Ryan a photo to show him exactly which bit I was talking about. Have subsequently found a photo of a whole packet of them for sale on e-bay, so have sent him that! He should be ble to work it out from there, that's what I paid for.

Hi alligoat, yes you're right and I have now found a little UK watchmaker who will do that. Just not trustworthy here in France. However, just let me put the issue into context. The total capital outlay on new movement/dial/hands is $130. I have 3- reps being:- 1-sub and 2 - DSSD's. The movement will fit all 3 with either of the 2 DSSD's (dial and hands fitted) just being a simple drop in. For the sub it needs the dial/hands switching over. The aggregate cost/investment per watch is therefore $43-33 and I can fix either of the DSSD's in 1 hour, or the sub in probably 2-3. Then I can send the movement off to be fixed at my convenience with all the watches still working. Also, don't have to risk the watch in the post, yes they do go missing and it's happened to me and a friend. The cost of any skilled labour in France is approx 45 euros per hour, or around $50. Sometimes double that in the Uk, not sure about USA. Maybe that's why they wanted to charge me 950 euros to service my gen sub. So, in the great scheme of things I generally consider the investment to be good value. Yes I know I then also have to pay for the repairs, but the convenience factor outweighs the cost for me - maybe not everyone. I tell you in all honesty, if I could find a source of Rolex caliber 3135 movements at the same price I'd buy a box load - did I hear someone say "yep, so would I"? I must say that since joining this forum I have been absolutely amazed at the quality and quantity of posts from what are genuinely very enthusiastic buyers/wearers or collectors, plus some of you who are obviously very skilled in watchmaking. However, it's those comments that I've read which made me think this was a reasonable strategy. Dare I say that I've also come across a potential problem of self detaching bezel inserts on subs/DSSD's. Probably not - as I'm likely to be seen as the angel of doom!! But I've fixed mine.

I do enjoy them, fake and real, which is why I want to preserve them in as idiot-proof a way as possible. These movements are, from what you all say, very little QA'd on assembly and, also from what's been said, rarely lubricated the way they would/should be if they were genuine. This almost automatically means a potential for error or failure or limited time before problems. By acquiring a spare movement etc I 'm ensuring that what you suggest is guaranteed with a minimum of fuss. I just happen to think that the V6s version DSSD deserves that. If I adopted the same idea of "leave it till it goes wrong" with my race cars - never would have completed a race. it's generally called "planning ahead" The other problem I have specifically is that I live in France. In the UK, finding somone to deal with this was easy, to say the least. Not here. I took my Rolex Sub to what used to be our Rolex agent (no longer) for a price to service it. They wanted 950 euros. The standard worldwide price from Rolex is £460 or approx 575 euros or the equivalent. Consequently, finding someone to fix a rep here is probably going to be frought with problems.

Yes, understood. Thought that would be the case. It's the noob V6s DSSD D-Blue with A2836. Am looking to get a couple of spacers (one spare) to finish the parts for assembling the spare hands/dial/movement I have. Intent is to simply have a complete drop in ready to swap when one needs a service. That saves me from dis-assembling one movement before sending it off. Was hoping someone might just have one on the bench. Did order it ALL assembled. Sods law strikes again!! Hang on, sorry, just noticed you're referring to the mid-case spacer. It's not that. It's the plastic dial to movement spacer which holds the dial face off the movement at a specific distance to provide clearance for the date wheel to rotate freely. On the noob V6s the dial feet do not have "slots" which lock into the retaining clips on the movement like the ETA version. The feet themselves are slightly non-perpendicular to the dial face, providing a kind of primitive interference fit in the holes. The dial/movement spacer then seems to hold the whole lot firmly at the correct distance. Once in the case the whole thing is then solid. Just one more example of how to cut corners with a cheap, but effective, solution I guess.

Does anyone have a photo of the plastic spacer ring which holds the dial at the correct distance from the movement on a DSSD/Sub with the A2836 movement? Can't seem to find one on the net anywhere.

Yes, that's what I do with mine. Bracelet has enough links to allow the extension to be pushed right up under the clasp, while still being snug on the wrist. That really only leaves a very small part of the extension exposed. Just one more thing. If you do remove it, make sure you keep the link in a safe place where you can always find it later. If you decide to sell the watch at some time the new owner might just want it and not sure if you'll be able to get a spare. I had to beg to get a spare movement, dial and hands for my V6s DSSD D-Blue. They reluctantly gave in after about three weeks of nagging.

I think you have to push in the "springbar" first to disengage the end link. That frees the end link from the clasp, then you can get at the screw. Turn the open clasp over and you can see the springbar inside on the end of the link you want to free. That seems to be how it works on my noob V6s DSSD and another I have (non-noob). It's a bit fiddly. You'll need a small watchmakers screwdriver or something like it and make sure you cover all the shiny bits on the bracelet with tape first. You don't want to scratch your nice new watch if you slip. Why do you want to remove the divers extension anyway?

I have the noob V6s version of the DSSD D-Blue from "Intime" one of the TD's. It's very good quality indeed with all the things you expect, such as 120 click bezel with very genuine feel and etched Rolex crown at 6 o'clock on the crystal. Casework and bracelet are also exceptional. I think the slightly updated V7 is also now available. If the sub is the same quality, then doubt you'll be disappointed. Trusty Time have them also, as do others.

Christ, what a mess, poor thing!! May I suggest that once you've sorted out the obvious mechanical issues you complete the job by following gioarmani's post of 2009 about general waterproofing. This is the link: I have done this to all my rep's (1-sub and 2- DSSD's). The DSSD I use mainly in the pool has been flogging up and down for weeks now - wet/dry and hot/cold with no probs. Temp variations of maybe 20 degrees from pool (30 deg) to hot sun for 20 mins (poss 50 deg) and still no ingress. Good luck and hope you sort it.

Thanks for that everyone. Have now found a nice little 66 year old watchmaker in the uk who will supply and fit an ETA 2836 in the DSSD for me if I want it. I think the investment is worthwhile on this one. He's familiar with all of them, including the clones.

Not quite sure about the last comment. The comparison is only between the two versions of the PO, the gen Omega & the fake from Intime & others. The Speedmaster is mine and only there as an example of what a great, understated and elegant classic chrono looks like before Marj Simpson and the Muppets get hold of it and re-design it out of boredom. Wearing the Speedmaster in full evening dress (that's jacket and trousers, not an actual dress) you fell like James Bond, and he did wear one at one point. Even the genuine Omega would make me feel a bit more like Homer Simpson in a tank top in the same environment. Other than that, they're motorsport v diving in functional intent. So, that's the defensive insults over. The comparison I was looking at was between the gen Omega and the fake only, so here are my immediate thoughts before I buy one. To me I just don't understand why Omega went for the "broad arrow" kiddy clock hands, this is one obvious difference. Not sure if this was an issue with some people, which could be why the fake has only narrow strip lume before the arrow head with the rest of the hands blacked out. To me it looks more balanced that way, but may have been simply a copy from an earlier model style. You certainly don't need "kiddy clock" hands for diving, Rolex never did and none of mine have. There is an obvious difference in the orange colour on the bezels and the numbers. Not sure if this is a photographic/lighting issue or actual. Still, again I think I prefer the fake colour as it's a little less in your face than the gen. Not sure if anyone who has one can confirm that as accurate or not. pcardoza's post/reply above comments on the movements, which is about all I can ask for at this stage. I know they are just not (even the gen) going to be as good as the calibre 861 movement in my Speedy. According to a watchmaker I was talking to earlier they are about as good a chrono movement as there has been in his opinion, but I defer to his knowledge on that one. The other issue was the spacing of the sub-dials. From the photo's (which are not the exact same scale) they look about right and not obviously wrong. I assume this has something to do with the actual configuration of the 7750 movement itself. The other issue in my mind would be the accuracy of the date change mechanism and if it has any weaknesses or problems, such as displacement. So, those were the actual issues I was looking for comfort/comment on before re-starting my atler-ego life as Homer Simpson! If anyone has any further thoughts or actual experience of one - glad to hear it.

Thanks. Is there nobody on the forum who is selling these, refurbed or new, or do we know of someone? e-bay is not my favourite place as there is a lot of crap out there and what you're told is not always what you get. It's a bloody minefield somtimes. I would only buy something like this from a source that came recommended or known to be correct/reliable by someone I can trust. An example of this is that I have a genuine and original Omega (one of the first, 1969) Speedmaster Moonwatches. There are a few for sale on e-bay that I can see are not correct, yet described as correct. Fortunately, I know the difference, but not with an A2836 movement. Any names or directions to a reliable source would be much appreciated.