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richard591

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Everything posted by richard591

  1. richard591

    Hi Matt. Thanks for your comments. Have sent this direct, as not sure how often posts are re-read after answers are give.

    Thanks for the input. Have thought about this overnight and have come to this conclusion:-

    The noob V6s version of the DSSD D-Blue I have is so good in terms of casework, bracelet, very genuine feel 120 click bezel, good crystal with Rolex crown at 6 o'clock etc etc that I think it deserves a good reliable movement to complete it. I'm therefore thinking of just having done with it and putting in an ETA 2836 now. So, can anyone tell me where I can get one of those which will take the spare DSSD D-Blue dial/handset which is coming with the spare A2836? Both are from noob to match the watch.

    If an ETA is available, I'll just keep the spare A2836's for the other two watches with those movements. This will enable me to enjoy the noob with complete peace of mind without worrying about something going out of wack at some point.

    So, looking for new/refurb'd complete ETA 2836 with date overlay ready to just accept dial and handset to drop straight in to the noob. The noob case uses a genuine sized stem tube from what I can see and I assume the movement fixing in to the case (2 number screws) is the same on the ETA.

    I have given some thought to conversion to a 3135, such as the recent post/review on the YUKI version, but assume this will require more modifications, as I'm guessing the sizing is different. Prefer to keep it simple if poss and I think the ETA 2836 has always been a good solid reliable unit from what I've read. Also keeps the watch able to immediately take back the A2836 spare movements if the ETA ever needs to be serviced and avoids me having to send the whole watch away in the post, which is always a risk. Also avoids any awkward questions about the watch being a fake.

    Appreciate your advice.

  2. richard591

    Hi and thanks for the input. Have copied the current message below direct as not sure how often past posts are read after answers are given.

    Thanks for the input. Have thought about this overnight and have come to this conclusion:-

    The noob V6s version of the DSSD D-Blue I have is so good in terms of casework, bracelet, very genuine feel 120 click bezel, good crystal with Rolex crown at 6 o'clock etc etc that I think it deserves a good reliable movement to complete it. I'm therefore thinking of just having done with it and putting in an ETA 2836 now. So, can anyone tell me where I can get one of those which will take the spare DSSD D-Blue dial/handset which is coming with the spare A2836? Both are from noob to match the watch.

    If an ETA is available, I'll just keep the spare A2836's for the other two watches with those movements. This will enable me to enjoy the noob with complete peace of mind without worrying about something going out of wack at some point.

    So, looking for new/refurb'd complete ETA 2836 with date overlay ready to just accept dial and handset to drop straight in to the noob. The noob case uses a genuine sized stem tube from what I can see and I assume the movement fixing in to the case (2 number screws) is the same on the ETA.

    I have given some thought to conversion to a 3135, such as the recent post/review on the YUKI version, but assume this will require more modifications, as I'm guessing the sizing is different. Prefer to keep it simple if poss and I think the ETA 2836 has always been a good solid reliable unit from what I've read. Also keeps the watch able to immediately take back the A2836 spare movements if the ETA ever needs to be serviced and avoids me having to send the whole watch away in the post, which is always a risk. Also avoids any awkward questions about the watch being a fake.

    All the best

    Richard

    Appreciate your advice.

     

  3. richard591
    Thanks for the input. Have thought about this overnight and have come to this conclusion:- The noob V6s version of the DSSD D-Blue I have is so good in terms of casework, bracelet, very genuine feel 120 click bezel, good crystal with Rolex crown at 6 o'clock etc etc that I think it deserves a good reliable movement to complete it. I'm therefore thinking of just having done with it and putting in an ETA 2836 now. So, can anyone tell me where I can get one of those which will take the spare DSSD D-Blue dial/handset which is coming with the spare A2836? Both are from noob to match the watch. If an ETA is available, I'll just keep the spare A2836's for the other two watches with those movements. This will enable me to enjoy the noob with complete peace of mind without worrying about something going out of wack at some point. So, looking for new/refurb'd complete ETA 2836 with date overlay ready to just accept dial and handset to drop straight in to the noob. The noob case uses a genuine sized stem tube from what I can see and I assume the movement fixing in to the case (2 number screws) is the same on the ETA. I have given some thought to conversion to a 3135, such as the recent post/review on the YUKI version, but assume this will require more modifications, as I'm guessing the sizing is different. Prefer to keep it simple if poss and I think the ETA 2836 has always been a good solid reliable unit from what I've read. Also keeps the watch able to immediately take back the A2836 spare movements if the ETA ever needs to be serviced and avoids me having to send the whole watch away in the post, which is always a risk. Also avoids any awkward questions about the watch being a fake. Appreciate your advice.
  4. richard591
    Thanks for that. As usual very helpful. Agreed on the pull out to time set position for removing stem, which is what I always do when taking out the movements to do the waterproofing. As a matter of forward planning I've got another complete movement, dial and hands coming as a quick drop in replacement in case of problems. This allows me to keep each watch in use while sorting out the problems, if they occur. It will fit each of the DSSD's. I'm getting a faint feeling of deja-vu with these reps. It's a bit like the lotus cars of the 1960's I was involved with, 7's and Elans etc. Great when their going well, but you can spend your life under or tinkering with them every week just to keep them going. I'm sure it's not going to be like that though and am very pleased with the noob V6s DSSD. At present it's keeping pace with my Sub, which has just come back from Rolex servicing, albeit after many Peso's being spent. Just as a matter of interest, I assume the ETA 2836 would be a straight drop in replacement if I want to take the noob V6s to the next level, but will the dial and hands go straight over as well without mods? I also assume the the stem will be the same. If so, that gives me another route for preserving what is a lovely case and bracelet set on the noob.
  5. richard591
    Don't know the answers to those questions as the problems are on other peoples watches I've read about. I got the impression on one of them it was a new watch that had suddenly developed the problem within a few weeks. In that case I assume, there would not have been any of the kink, dirt or broken teeth probs. What caused it, I can't tell.
  6. richard591
    So, here we go again, with me being nerdy and looking for trouble before it happens -sorry. I've just read some blogs (elsewhere) about a non-complete date flip issue on several A2836 movements in rep Rolex's, but assume it's the same for any rep using the same movement. Apparently, the date was not changing completely without some manual intervention, but not always for the entire 360 degree cycle. Maybe only a quarter or a third of it in some cases, with the rest changing normally. That seems a bit odd. Does anyone know what would cause that condition? Some describe just a slight date/window misalignment, which I assume is a completely different issue/problem of QC. I have 3 such movements in 1- sub and 2- DSSD's, so am looking for info just in case it happens to me. What are the most common (and fixable) causes of date misalignment so I'm prepered? Also, I am currently regulating and waterproofing all, so am taking out winding stem and removing movements as part of the process. Is re-introduction of the stem in to the movement an issue which could cause this in certain circumstances? ie, too much pressure on insertion. Again, sorry if this has been covered before, so just direct me to the relevant post on the subject, I just can't find it using the search function.
  7. richard591
    Well, here they both are. The gen from the Omega Catalogue and the rep from Intime website. I'd say just looking at them that the sub dial spacing is just about ok. There are obvious differences, such as orange colour on bezel (may just be a lighting issue when photo'd) and dial number colour, plus the rep version seems to have "blacked hands" apart from the lume itself. Not sure if this is simply due to the fact that the rep was copied from an earlier model, which may have been susequently updated. I think overall if you walked in to an Omega dealer they'd be hard pressed to see the difference without some close examination. That was certainly the case when I walked in to my Rolex dealer wearing my latest noob V6s rep DSSD D-Blue to collect my Submariner from its service. They couldn't take their eyes off it. I think the rep looks fairly good and if the chrono functions do work, then all the better. I own one of the first gen Speedmaster Pro moonwatches which were released after Apollo 11 landed (mod ref 145022-69) and which has only been used for 9 out of its 46 year life. Even during the period when I was wearing it (1970 - 1979) I barely used the chrono function at all. Using the same logic/principal, the rep will probably last me forever! I've attached a photo of that also in case anyone is interested.
  8. richard591
    Thanks. This is the link to one particular version available from Intime:- http://www.intime.co/omega/2880-planet-ocean-chrono-45mm-ss-jhf-black-dial-on-ss-bracelet-a9900.html It's described as a functioning chrono and Ryan at Intime says it is. Has anyone had experience with this model or a similar one from the same stable? Apart from the overall quality of the case, bracelet etc, I'm most interested in a reliable movement and the 7750 does seem to be ok. There seems to be only one other (orange bezel) which is described as fully functioning, all the others being described as Faux (non functioning) hour and minute dials.
  9. richard591
    I wonder if someone would be kind enough to give me some advice on this issue or, if there have been previous posts/tutorials on the matter, just direct me to where I can find them. I’m still new and finding my way about. I recently bought 2-DSSD’s 1-black (non noob) and a noob V6s D-Blue. The V6s is such a lovely thing and so well-made I want to make sure it can be preserved as long as possible, so have ordered a complete replacement 2836 movement plus D-Blue dial and handset. This was to be supplied already assembled, so a simple drop in. Yes, you may have guessed, it’s all going to come un-assembled and that’s where I would appreciate some advice. Firstly, let me say that I’m familiar with working on small fiddly things – collector of antique English & French clocks and working on firearms. So, I will be doing it myself as soon as it arrives, then putting it away until needed. I have already had both the DSSD’s apart to check over, waterproof and regulate and am familiar with the process of dis-assembly/re-assembly. So, these are the questions:- 1. Having mounted the dial on the movement I would normally expect to then set the position of the hands by rotating the winder until the date just flips. This should be 12 midnight, at which point the hands are mounted at that position before moving slightly ahead (to say 3 o’clock) to test the date change over function. 2. I now have to mount the hands and that's where I could use some guidance. Are there any specific do's and don'ts, such as the pressure applied when mounting and are the hands self spacing on their respective pinions? I'm unfamiliar with the tube construction on these hands and don't know if they have to be manually set to the correct spacing off the dial. While this is going on the movement would obviously be in "time set" position. Any useful guidance on this would be much appreciated and sorry if I’m just repeating what’s been asked a thousand times before.
  10. richard591
    Didn't get very far with the last question, so here we go again. I have scoured the posts here about the Omega PO-chrono's and run through the listed PO's on most of the TD's sites. Still none the wiser. Can anyone who has one help me out? I'm looking for the very best PO-chrono with full working chrono functions that is currently available. Many are listed as Faux function (not working) for hour and min recording dials, but I want a fully working one to compliment my genuine 1969 Speedmaster Moonwatch. Would be pleased to get comments from anyone who actually owns one of these, if they are actually available. There seem to be a couple on Ryan's website at Intime, but really not sure as they look (and are priced) the same as others which are described as not fully working. Names of dealers and best make would be much appreciated.
  11. richard591
    Sorry about that. Completely forgot where I was for a moment there!
  12. richard591

    Hi Raj

    I noticed when we were speaking about the DSSD that you had a Planet Ocean, maybe you can now help me.

    Having just bought two DSSD's (black and D-Blue) to compliment my gen Submariner am now looking at a Planet Ocean to compliment my 1969/1970 early Speedmaster Pro Moonwatch. I'm initially thinking about the "Chrono" version as I still love the Speedmaster, but I also like the look of the straight time/date version. Both would be best in Titanium or Stainless, preferably with "liquid metal" blue dial.

    Can you advise on which are the best versions/supply source for these. Also, which movements. The Chrono seems to be available with 9300 or 7750 movements and the timepiece with 2824-2.

    Any advice would be much appreciated.

    Hope you're still in love with the DSSD.

    Regards

    Richard

  13. richard591
    Having just bought two DSSD's (black and D-Blue) to compliment my gen Submariner am now looking at a Planet Ocean to compliment my 1969/1970 early Speedmaster Pro Moonwatch. I'm initially thinking about the "Chrono" version as I still love the Speedmaster, but I also like the look of the straight time/date version. Both would be best in Titanium or Stainless, preferably with "liquid metal" blue dial. Can anyone advise on which are the best versions/supply source for these. Also, which movements. The Chrono seems to be available with 9300 or 7750 movements and the timepiece with 2824-2. Any advice would be much appreciated.
  14. richard591
    Thanks for that, thought it might be the case, but good to have confirmation.
  15. richard591
    Can anyone illuminate this one please. I have two DSSD's with A2836 movemements. Best is the noob V6s DSSD D-Blue and the other an older version (non noob). Both are very nice. My question is concerning the interchangeability of the movements watch to watch in case of problems in the future. The one I would obviously preserve out of preference would be the noob V6s. It's by far the superior case. so questions are as follows:- 1. I know that the winder stem tubes do vary in size and I can see that the noob V6s has the larger (like gen) tube fitted. However, is the winder stem exactly the same size/design regardless in order to fit the (I assume standard) A2836 movement for this particular watch application? 2. From what I can see, the A2836 movement seems to be fairly standard and fitted in a very wide range of reps. Looking at the movements themselves, they both seem identical and for the DSSD's all the retaining parts, such as screws (2 number) plus the movement retaining collets and retaining rings all seem identical. Therefore it seems to me that the only critical difference would be in the winder stem itself. However, if the internals of the movement are identical, then I assume the profile of the stem must be standard? 3. Both watches are new, but from different sources, and I'm not sure if the winder stem sizes might have changed in the past few years. It seems to me that to produce and sell these reps for the money charged (particularly in view of the quality of the casework) everything should to be relatively standardised with finished movements picked out of a bin of finished items and just assembled very quickly. Only variation being watch type (therfore winder length perhaps) and face/dial. In my ideal world, if anything went wrong with the V6s, I would like to just be able to switch the movements over. Before anyone asks "why would you sacrifice the other watch"? It's simply because the noob will be the most worn. It was the second purchase and frankly if I'd seen the noob first I'd not have bought the other one as the detail on the noob is all you could ask - 120 click bezel with very accurate "feel", Rolex etched crown at 6 o-clock and superb casework and bracelet. And I say all that comparing it to my genuine Submariner. Obviously, there are other options also such as fitting in another A2836 replacement movement (they seem to be available) or a genuine ETA 2836 to name two of them. Repair might be more difficuly as I live in France and am not sure of the reaction of watchmakers here to being presented with a fake Rolex. I might get arrested!!
  16. richard591
    Thanks again everyone for the input. Very helpful Exactly, that's why I didn't try to remove the inner ring. I guess for those who only wear the watch as a changeable accessory this is all a bit academic. However, for those who do actually want it to withstand light duty as described, this is all useful stuff. As I said, has worked on the DSSD Black so far, but if the valve on the noob DSSD V6s is actually a working item then it should be sealed anyway. After waterproofing/greasing all the seals might still be worthwhile to have it pressure tested anyway, just to make absolutely sure.
  17. richard591
    Thanks, have you got the V6s DSSD? If you have, that's very wierd then because if it was the same on mine I assume it would be visible. Looking at it from the inside it seems only possible that the hole could be on the other side of the inner ring, as I said, which itself is fitted so tightly to the case you can't see it. Nevertheless, these watches are never going to have to experience letting Helium out anyway. If you're right and you may well be, then I assume the hole is drilled through the main body of the case to fit the valve, then the inner ring is pressed in after that and covers the hole. However, if it is and it's a functioning valve, then at least that means it should be watertight in its own right, because you couldn't get to the hole unless the inner ring was removed. I personally draw the line at that point, because I'm not sure how the inner ring disengages and wouldn't want to disrupt the case to that extent. Hopefully, what I've done (as described) will perform as well as on the DSSD Black. If not, I'll let you know.
  18. richard591
    Since I couldn't get a definitive answer to my post on Saturday 6th Aug to the question "is the hole for the dummy HE valve on the noob V6s DSSD drilled all the way through the case" I took the movement out today to have a look. Answer is:- no it doesn't seem to be. If it is, then it's behind the tightly machined and fitted inner ring which seems to be press fitted into the case just under the rehaut ring and you can't see it. I couldn't see any way water could get past that if you're just doing what you should be with a rep and only swimming or showering. I also assume, at least with the noob V6s DSSD, that the HE valve may have some form of seals, as it's billed as being resistant to 5 ATM. However, don't trust it until you've checked the back for tightness. Mine was only hand tight when I got it. This seems to be born out with my other DSSD Black. I did that one some weeks ago - back off and winder stem out to grease with silicone all the "O" ring seals, then tighten the whole lot down. Much flailing about in the pool and drying out in hot sun since hasn't shown up any problems so far. Personally, this is as much as I would expect from a rep. If I want to go skiing, water skiing or windsurfing (too many high speed wipeouts to mention) I would only wear my genuine Submariner. That's done the lot and never missed a beat.
  19. richard591
    Sounds like you've really got the bug. Told you it was nice. Back to my message on waterproofing. Had the movement out today and the good news is that the hole for the HE Valve does not seem to be drilled right through the case, or if it is, it's behind the tightly machined/fitted inner ring under the rehaut ring and you can't see it. Therefore, take back off and winder stem out to apply silicone grease to all the "O" ring seals seems to be all that's required. I've done this to my DSSD Black as previously mentioned and have been in the pool with it several times now without any problems. Watch dries out on my wrist in 30 degree sunshine just to put it under further stress. Enjoy.
  20. richard591
    Still can't get a definitive answer to this one, even from Intime. So, today the back comes off again and the movement out to inspect. Will post the results when I know. My DSSD D-Blue is a V6s, but I assume it will be the same for the just released V7, as the list of additional mods to that don't seem to alter anything to do with the HE valve.
  21. richard591
    Thanks everyone for the input. Generally, if I need heavy duty waterproofing, I only ever wear my genuine Submariner. The question was mainly to address and follow on from the very good post by "gioarmani" in August 2009, in which he covers the whole issue of waterproofing and clearly states that no rep should be regarded as watertight at all (regardless of what's said) until checking out and sealing. He mentions that he's done this to all his reps without problems. Since I do want to be able to swim and shower with it on it's vital that the watch doesn't get ruined for lack of a couple of hours of minor work to make sure. It's kind of nonsensical (even for a good rep) not to be able to put up with that!! I have already done this to the DSSD black and have done about 20 laps of the pool wearing it without any problems at all. This was particularly highlighted when the new noob DSSD D-Blue turned up. Fab though it is and although it's billed as coping with 5 ATM out of the box on the website, when I put the back removal die on it I undid it with just hand pressure!! That's not going to stand 5 ATM or anything like it. Now, it may be that after regulation they just forgot to tighten up the back again (perhaps) but if I'd taken that at face value I would have a watch full of water and a ruined movement. After a thorough inspection and greasing (including the two piece back faces to aid tightening) it's as tight as in can reasonably be for the duty intended. Since I now have the movement regulated to only +5 secs in 3 days I obviously don't want to remove/disturb the movement if not required, hence the question. Although these watches are obviously never going to need an HE valve, some are described as having working ones, why I just don't know. It may be a simple question of continuing to make them look as authentic as poss, in which case the actual depth of the dummy valve used may need a deep hole in the case to accommodate it. Just as a matter of interest, my DSSD black is an older model and does have the HE valve that you can push in from the front. However, as stated originally, when I took the back off the hole didn't go all the way through the case, thus proving the variability of the whole issue. I'll ask Ryan at Intime to see if he can get the answer from the factory boys before taking the movement out.
  22. richard591
    Can anyone answer this one for me? Does the hole which takes the HE Valve on the noob DSSD V6s go all the way through the case, thus needing sealing internally to completely waterproof? I have a DSSD D-Blue V6s which has just arrived from “Intime” and I’m currently going through re-regulation, which is going well. In doing this I have already inspected and greased all the gaskets as detailed in "gioarmani’s" post of August 2009, but not yet taken the movement out. The reason I ask this question is that I also have (from a different source) a DSSD Black which is already completed (waterproofing and regulation) and when I took the movement out I discovered that the HEV hole on that one was not drilled all the way through the case, therefore not needing filling with epoxy. It does seem rather counter-intuitive to drill a hole all the way through, thus compromising the case integrity, for a dummy valve that’s never going to actually be needed or used. However, I’m not sure on the noob V6s, as its way better and slightly different to the DSSD Black. Nevertheless, if I don’t need to disturb the movement on the D-Blue for the same reason, then it saves dismantling it all. If anyone has done this or knows the answer I would greatly appreciate the info. Failing that I will have to contact Ryan at Intime to see if he can get the info for me. All the best Richard
  23. richard591

    Hi Ninga, thought I would share this now you've decided to buy the DSSD D-Blue.

    Firstly, if you go to my thread on "regulating the A2836 movement" (it's a couple of places below the one on the noob DSSD), you will see that apart from regulation I also commented on doing a waterproofing job on the case. I have done this very well following the previous thread by "gioarmani" posted on the 1st August 2009. When you've finished reading this, suggest you read that also.

    So, this afternoon I decided to have a look inside the noob to do the same. First thing I noticed was that the back was not very tightly screwed down at all, in fact when I put the die on the back I could turn it with my hand. Therefore, first piece of advice is "don't jump in the pool with it yet". Just as gioarmani says, it wont be waterproof yet. Still, don't panic , it gets better. It may simply be they forgot to re-tighten it after regulation.

    On taking the back off I noticed the following compared to the other DSSD black.

    1. Much higher quality finish.

    2. The two piece back is the correct profile as the gen.

    3. Unlike the black DSSD, the noob didn't need any micro fettling of the gasket groove on the inner part of the back - the titanium bit on the gen.

    4. The movement seems to be a high quality gold plated affair and is marked "25 Jewels"

    5. On taking the winder shaft out and inspecting the seals it has the 3 seals like the triple lock gen. These are :- outer tube (visible when you pull winder out. Inner tube (which shaft passes through) and inner crown which tightens down onto end of winder tube. Gioarmani says in his post that sometimes with rep's you only get 2 of these and the inner tube gasket is somtimes missing. Not the case here.

    So, I was very happy and took the opportunity with the back off to carry out minor adjustment/correction of the timing.

    Now, it would be worth your while to do the same so as not to risk your lovely new DSSD getting water inside it. If, like me, you have all the correct dies, screwdrivers and a watch case clamp/mini vice and you're used to doing this, then it's a couple of hours enjoyable work one afternoon.

    If not and you don't feel comfortable with doing it yourself, then it's worth spending a few quid giving it to a good watchmaker to do for you. The important thing on re-assembly is to use the silicone grease on all the gaskets. I also greased the threads and the chamfer on the case back to aid tighening down.

    If you want to do it yourself, but don't have the Rolex back dies, then make sure if you order some (usually China) that they include the 36.5mm die which fits the DSSD. Many don't and only go up to the size die that does the Sub.

    Also, If you don't have one of those nice little yellow plastic watch case vices which are on e-bay for about £8 and want to buy one of those also, the standard screw supplied isn't long enough to let you open the vice jaws enough to accomodate either a Sub or DSSD case. No matter, it's a standard thread (either BSF or Metric) and you'll get a longer one at your local "nuts and bolts are us" or DIY store.

    Remember, if you do it yourself, you don't need to tighten the nuts off it when putting the case back - back on. The grease will help you get it good and tight and it's never going to see 12900 metres, as won't any humans I know!!

    Hope this is helpful

     

    Richard

     

    1. richard591

      richard591

      Correction - sorry 12900 metres should be 3900 metres - 12,800 feet.

    2. ninjagaiden

      ninjagaiden

      Richard

      Thanks for the tips and glad to hear the V7 is as neat on the inside as it is on the outside.My watch is here in the UK sat in the local DHL depot - will have to wait until monday.

      I'll have to get one of the caseback dies and stick to a very light duty cycle until I can check it out.

      Interestingly my wife won't let me do a battery swap and these very simple procedures  on her little Longines - preferring to spend £80 to get it done at Mappin & Webb!!!

      Best wishes

      Raj

    3. richard591

      richard591

      Hi Raj.

      No problem, I'm sure you'll fall in love with it when it arrives.

      To get the very best out of the blue-fade to black dial just go outside with your back to the sun and hold the watch up - lovely.

      The regulation has gone very well and it's currently at +5 sec in 3 days. From the QC pic of the watch on the timeograph showing +8secs/day that took only half a notch back towards minus. Therefore the movement in this watch is much more sensitive than the DSSD black.

      To maintain this the wearing schedule is simply wear as normal through the day, then rest vertically (winder up) for the night. That neutralises the tendancy to run fast and equals it out for abou 8-9 hours.

      Richard

  24. richard591
    Good luck and enjoy.
  25. richard591
    I went for the A2836 and was warned off the 3135 by another member on this site. I think the 3135 has weaknesses/reliability issues and is not worth the extra money. However, the 2836 seems to be regarded by most as a good solid and reliable movement. This is also my current (so far) experience and if you go to my post on "regulating the A2836 movement" which is still ongoing and getting replies, you will see that I have been going through a regulating period with good results on the original DSSD black I bought before the D-Blue.
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