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About Profherm

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    I'm new. Be nice!

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  1. That's exactly my point of view. 1. There are things you notice on first sight if you have ever seen a gen. 2. Then there are thing you only see in direct comparison or with expert knowledge. 3. There are things every watchmaker notices if he puts the watch on a timegrapher or looks at the movement. 4. There are watches which can even fool a watchmaker. 5. The holy grail are watches that can not distinguished from a gen without checking the records of the manufacturer. My desired level is 2. and 4.. But that makes the difference from 40$ to 4.000$. I
  2. Never glue a dial to the movement. Better attach new feed to the dial at the new position. @powermax: The old Swatch Movements, I think before 1998 were fully made of metal.
  3. I still don't get it. It makes no sense for me to convert a movement running at the wrong frequency to a movement still running on a (another) wrong frequency. The early Rolex 15xx movements like the 1530 run at 18.000Vph, the later ones (eg.1570) at 19.800. Of course the ETA 2824 with its 28.800Vph ticks quite a bit faster. But to convert it with a 2846 running at 21.600Vph only brings it to another wrong frequency. And it would be much easier an cheaper to use a 2840/42 from an ols Swatch, which is a 2824 already running at 21.600 without needing conversion. By t
  4. Tomhorn, I am absolutely with you. My question was more why people spend thousands of $ for gen parts to improve their reps if good and much cheaper rep parts do the job too and are undistinguishable for 99.9% of all people.
  5. Don't ge me wrong. It's not about tricking people, it's about getting the highest possible approval for the build quality, build quality in every detail, inside and outside the case.
  6. Ok, you all mention some very good points which I will have to think over. Building a submariner tool watch to use it for swimming and diving without fear for loss and damage sounds very reasonable to me. Trying to build the best rep in all means that would fool any specialist could be really challenging. Just think about sending a rep to Rolex in Geneva and then getting it back with a dacument telling that is a gen. I think this is every high end builders dream. Keeping the unreplacable and invaluable gens in the safe and wearing reps to preserve the gens sounds reason
  7. Hello. I do not want to disturb other threads, but I realize that I think different compared to other users here. From my point of view, a really good rep should not be distinguishable from a gen at first sight. Many people here focus very much on verly little details, like fonts used on the dial, position and spacing of charakters, exact shape of crystal, crown, etc.. A watch that has been serviced by a "free" watchmaker, who is not allowed to buy gen parts from rolex, will get more and more aftermarket replacement parts during its life. Every time the watc
  8. Nicely done! I only miss the view under the hood on then engine.
  9. Did the engravings: Letters are to narrow and the position is not perfect, but I can't get closer to the lugs with my angraving tool. Here is the backside of the dial. Bought it described as repainted gen. What do you think? I don't care if it's a repainted gen or rep. But to read this advertising [censored] "repainted with swiss ink" is always funny. ;-)
  10. Thank you for your help. You got PM. So I'll engrave "Registered Design". But I'm still not sure about the serial number I'll use. I was thinking about a number with a special meaning for me, like a birthday or something like this. I have attached a picture of the engraving on my gen Datejust to show the poor engravings. Look at the Rs from. The L is not rectangular, the E from "ROLEX" ist tilted,...
  11. It took me some time to make progress, but here are some pictures of the case and the movement. And some Questions. Today I started to prepare the engraving between the lugs. I have pictures of a gen 6263, a gen 6265 and some watches from Ebay. And then I had a look on my gen 16014 to get supersharp and crisp pictures of the engraving. The outcome was complete confusion. Maybe you can help to overcome it. - I do not know whether to engrave "ORIG ROLEX DESIGN" or "REGISTERED DESIGN" or nothing at all above the Reference number. Saw all of them. What should I use?
  12. The case should fit the movement, simple as that. So the seller or manufacturer of the case should be able to tell you for which kind of movement it was designed. The critical parameter ist the height of the stem. If it is misaligned by just 0.2mm, you won't be able to fit the movement properly. Of course you could work with shims or open the case on the lathe, but that would be visible at first sight and everybody who has ever seen a gen would see that there is something wrong. Why don't you go for the Yuki 3135 instead of an ETA? And if you go for ETA, why do you want to build a
  13. I was thinking about building a 16520 myself. But when I read how much money you have in your project... Close to what you have to pay for a gen if you get it cheap. 5.5k plus bracelet, wow. And even with the rotor, every watchmaker can tell without even having to open the case, that it's not a gen. Just put it on the timegrapher and read the VpH. 36.000 with the El Primero vs. 28.800 with the 4030. Altering an El Primero to a 4030 is really difficult, because Rolex altered the main plate of the movement completely. So for me the price and effort would be to high for the resulting
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