Toadtorrent

I don't know for sure, but possibly because they get them cheap in the volume they buy and don't have to have a special machining run to get the special rotor.

Nice strap Red!!! Frog makes some beauties!

The Die Set Punch for K&D sets is punch #1 which you should be able to get from any watch tools supplier.

Uncle Larry's has the proper K&D one so I don't have to turn anything down...was going to buy it when I get home.

I'll get on this when I get home.

I got a bigger one from the Bay for about the same price...but it was missing a few stakes which I have to find.

That set punch is the stake I noticed was missing on mine when it arrived. I was making do with one of the others...but I was looking for it in the kit and found it missing.

Thanks for the write-up.

2 awesome selections. Click the pics for the reviews.

...and the black dial...

Info on the GMT Movements

Enjoy. The GMT IIc is one I've been eyeing for awhile...that and departing on a journey down the 1655 path...hmmmm...

That's a great collection...a nice mix of classic gens and some wonderful reps...modded and everything. Thanks for sharing.

Go O/S...you rock. I still have to put in my order...just been swamped!!

Any watchmaker that works on Rolex movements should be able to get you the part. You can also get a stem extender to work possibly.

It's the 4813 that I know for sure has the tall cannon pinion issue. Zig says an 8215 is the preferred replacement...but it doesn't hack and is still slow beat.

The 4813 hacks, is high beat...but is hard to find outside of some of the dealers in the proper tall cannon pinion.

Hope this helps.

Older Thread Referencing 8215

The above link is old...but Zig's mentioned it a few times since...and the a21j movements have not changed so the info is still valid. Zig has said the 8215 swap is generally straight forward...or can be done "with little mod" work.

From Watchuseek on an ETA vs 8215:

Good question. I'll answer to the best of my ability regarding basic features. I'm not a watchmaker.

1. Big cost difference. ETA more expensive.

2. 28.8k vs. 21.6k. ETA will have a "smoother" sweep second hand

3. ETA will hack (second hand stops when setting time). Miyota does not hack.

4. ETA can be manually wound. Not sure if Miyota can be manually wound with crown.

5. Hand sizes are different. More hand options for ETA if building your own watch

6. Dial feet location. dials are not interchangeable between the two unless modified

Still...it's killing me...Brodeur is off his game tonight...

It's a tight game...US scoring 20 seconds after the CDN power play..crazy...it's live alright Ken.

Fuzzy (Georgia Peach)

go canada go ...

WOOHOO!!!!

It's a bit tricky to find...but this is the movement review for the Daytona. The Porto is the same movement without the 3 and 9-o-clock registers.

Francisco's Daytona 29j Movement Review

The Swiss version will be the same mod performed on a Swiss movement. Is it better?? I read a note here somewhere, that because things are made better, the Swiss movement will experience the strain of the seconds at 6 movement better than the Asian...but it's still not a good mod.

The only real solution is to consider the watch disposable...do the graphite coating again and again as required (hard if you are not comfortable working on watches or don't have somebody who can do it for you), DLC coating...or better...get the Concepta mod with the gen movement.

Expensive? Yes.

Sweet. That is a looker...and under the hood? Wow!!

Memovox? MEMOVOX??

Like Ubi said...don't go from the 21j to the 7750 option. Aside from movement fit options, the dials will possibly be printed differently as the functions of the a21j movements varies so sometimes the subdial registers are 24h counters, etc...so may look funny.

Great post. What a nice read. Yeah...to think of the community that is built here from chance encounters finding the site. Exciting. Great to have this reflection...love it.

thanks for the clarification. so it's trade off between accuracy and reliability ...mmmmm i was thinking of getting the explorer ii but now i'm not so sure. i would prefer the CHS but if it's not reliable then it's not good.

may give it a miss altogether.

The only time you would notice the handstack being off is when the hour and GMT hands overlap...otherwise, there are VERY VERY few out there who would have a clue as to which is the right handstack...so it's really not something worth worrying about unless you are a zealot for perfection...then reps in general may not be worth it for you.

That's incredible. WOW. This is gotta be my fave watch on the forum. I do like the pepsi plastic!

It all depends on you, your personality, style, etc.

I have a Breitling Skyland which is about the same size...in fact 2mm wider and I think this is about as big as I would go (I have 6.5" wrists)...so i think the DSSD would be fine for you...but if you are more self-conscious, having a big hunk of metal on your wrist will be an attention getter...something to think about.

Pardon my ignorance but why would the ICHS be more expensive? I thought the CHS is the more expensive? Confused.

Can you please clarify?

Sorry for the confusion. There are 2 genuine Swiss movements out there. The Swiss ICHS, and the Swiss CHS. The latter is the most expensive. The Asian ETA is cheaper than the Swiss ETA and only comes in the ICHS version. The CHS looks just like the gen in the order the hands are stacked from the dial to the top...and operates the same way as the gen Rolex movement. It is an unreliable movement and prone to premature, infixable failure.

The ICHS in either the Swiss or Asian ETA versions are better...the Swiss being the best of the variety...and a cheaper A21j version exists as well that uses a cheaper movement.

Red...you're crazy man. You're diving in big time to horology. Awesome.

Francisco...this is very interesting. Thank you...again!!