Nexus9

I've requested a watch from a trusted dealer, which was shown as being available on their website, but still asked the dealer in advance about it's availability. The dealer confirmed in writing that the watch was available. I sent money. The next day, I got an email from the dealer saying that the watch was NOT available, but he could get the same model from the "Original Factory", for 25% more money. This REALLY feels like a classic "bait and switch". What concerns me more is that I can't seem to find any info about Original Factory, (I've used the search function in several forums) and I certainly can't find that particular watch anywhere online manufactured by the Original Factory. Does anyone know if such a factory even exists? If so (in general) did this factory produce a higher-end product? Thanks in advance for your knowledge/experience.

Here's a Russian Slava Specnaz Special Forces Guard watch (so they tell me). Cheap, light, thin, and I don't have to put my glasses on to tell the time!

Here's something a little different... I decided I needed a Summer watch, white with brown:

Ordered this today from Red Rooster:

Oh, that is really helpful - and that parts container makes total sense. Did you see the rust on the latches of the item they use to display it? Crazy! I'll do a search on eBay and see what I can find. Thanks for taking time to write. Ha! The exact same thing is on eBay in American dollars from the same supplier in the UK with the same rusty picture: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Parts-containers-24-aluminium-tubs-in-wooden-box-watchmakers-jewellers-storage/202556801535?hash=item2f295381ff:g:EpUAAOSwk-BdqYl9

Well, dayummmm.... is that how it happened? I still look for Oskar Fischinger visuals every time I hear this (Fantasia, 1940) - is that a bad thing? I guess it goes hand in hand with the "Hi, Yo, Sillllver!" that pops into my head every time I hear the William Tell Overture. I lead a sheltered childhood....

I'm talking about the metal ones that come out of your watch, now.... I'm learning to service my own watches lately. Been a technician all my life, so I have the interest, but no formal training. The parts make sense to me, but I see technicians just throw everything in a pile for cleaning and then reassemble the movement. I've always kept any fasteners with the part that they attach, so I'm sure to get the right thread and length when I reassemble things - also, I know if one is missing. Are watch movement screws so similar that they are interchangeable? (other than the obvious movement mounting screws etc) Do you just memorize the screw types on disassembly? How do you guys sort and manage screws? Thanks

Hey Inter, It's hard to tell with the photo you are showing - we really need a macro shot of the shock absorber (the red jewel above the balance wheel) and the stampings. It looks to me like the "furrows" in the shock mount are not too deep, which indicates Asian, and I can't see the stampings clearly enough to judge by them. But this will help: https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/swiss-or-clone/60868-eta-2836-2-vs-clone-how-to-tell-swiss-from-asian If you can get the movement magnified, that post should help you decide.

Yeah, that is a nice version of that Omega with the engraved ceramic bezel, and I think I might've got a good one - the movement is very smooth when I wind it by hand, it just feels well put together (built on a Wednesday...?) I've ordered a black leather Tissot strap with red stitching (curved at the ends, molds to the case) but it's stuck in China. Might be a while...

Well, I'm not an olde timer here, but after spending time on the four watch sites that I can find, I'd rather be here than deal with all the sarcasm, insults and name calling that goes on at all the other sites, and sometimes as a response to a post that you thought was genuinely helpful. I think you guys are doing a great job setting the tone here (and just bought a VIP membership to back that up) but maybe what the world really wants is stupid drama. I also notice that on Firefox, all three of the other sites get saved as an icon on my homepage, but this site never does, even though I visit it just as much. Sometimes, its simple stuff like that that makes it easy for people to come back. I'm not an IT guy, is there any reason that might (not) happen?

Hey Guys (and Gals); Got a favorite firearm...? Show it off! It's a fun subject for some, but we know it can be touchy, so be responsible with your posts (no muzzle sweeps or watches on a dead muskrat or something). For those that don't like firearms, it's okay, this post isn't for you. Gun guys, don't get goaded into a pissing contest. Keep it fun, and show us what you got! Daily carry? Alley Cleaner? Safe Queen? Tell us all about it! Here's a favorite of mine. The Omega Seamaster 300 is sitting on a Dan Wesson Guardian chambered in 9mm that makes it ridiculously easy to be accurate, but the 3 lb trigger (that moves all of 1 millimeter to release the hammer) is way too touchy for an EDC. The Crimson Trace Laser Grips are a custom project of mine - in the Gen 1 version of these grips, only black grips were available with a green laser; so these Burlwood grips were trimmed, filled and painted to fit the Bobtail grip, and then I transplanted a green laser assembly into the grip. That was kind of interesting...

Hi PL-1, Sounds like this may be a new experience for you, so let me just give you some suggestions. As my friend says, advice is like watermelon - you gotta keep the fruit, and spit out the seeds: 1. Going to the Trusted Dealer section of this forum is a great place to start. By creating a TD section, the dealers are now in a competitive group where feedback can be left for them, so they are a lot more likely to provide good service and value. 2. Even though some dealers have websites showing a lot of watches, and most (or all!) of them are showing as "In Stock", TDs, in general are not big department stores with lots of inventory. They are individuals, or small groups of people who provide a service for us (at substantial risk) of acting as an interface between us and the "Makers" of replica watches. 3. What this means is that when you order a watch, most of the time, the TD then communicates with his makers to get the watch for you. Since most of the TDs communicate with most of the makers (this is not 100%) most any dealer in the TD listing can get what you want. 4. Spend some time communicating with a dealer or two before you decide. How quick is their response time? Do they seem to understand what you're saying, and answer all your questions, or just the first one, and then ignore the last two in your email? Ask about shipping. What happens if a package gets stuck in customs? What happens if you don't like the first watch shown in the QC photos? Read the feedback. Are people (in general) happy with their experience with this TD? Remember that these guys may be on the other side of the world, so you may be writing to them in the middle of (their) night. 5. When you decide on a dealer you like, Send an exact description of what you would like to buy, with clear photos, describing any color or strap variations; or even a web link from the page of the watch you are looking at. ASK FIRST IF THIS WATCH IS ACTUALLY AVAILABLE. Many watches on websites are not even available! So get a confirmation from your chosen dealer if he can actually get this or not. 6. If you feel good about the dealer, and confident he can get what you want, roll the dice and place the order. I say it like this because to me, this is like going to the casino. I never risk more at the table than I'm willing to lose. We all need to realize that these TDs are providing the equivalent of $2,000 - $4,000 - even $$6,000 and up watches for us for two or three hundred bucks, and there's a lot of pitfalls in the road. Sometimes you're going to lose. By doing your homework in advance you can minimize the risks, and hopefully score a nice watch that you like! 7. Tell us about your experience. Be concise, be specific, but be factual. This isn't therapy. And be sure you communicated with the TD if you feel something didn't work out, and GIVE HIM TIME TO TAKE CARE OF IT. These TDs have got a lot going on that we don't know about, and they're addressing a WORLD WIDE market - they can be answering hundreds of emails a day. That's my take. Others (hopefully) will chime in with some ideas I might have glossed over. The most important to me is number six - if you don't spend more than you're willing to lose, it takes the anxiety out of it, and makes it a lot more fun.

Now there's something you don't see every day. Nice job blending the strap... Never really liked the B&R so much until I saw this one. Now its my favorite. Oh, crap.... does this mean I'm a Square?

Now there's a guy who does Hendrix justice.... and left-handed to boot! Now I gotta go look up Eric and see if he can do Third Stone From the Sun. I actually saw Hendrix live in 1969. (!) Now I'm dating myself.

Oh, that IS nice...

Mark Levinson - Magnepan 3.5s - Lea Salonga. Stops me dead in my tracks and drops me on the couch. Lea Salonga--Someone Else's Story.mp4

A little late to the party here, but it should be noted: press lightly on the button at the same time you are applying light pressure (pulling) the stem. The idea here is to press the button just enough to release the stem - normally, less than 1 millimeter. Too much pressure on this button will mess up the keyless works on the other side of the main plate, and now you'll be removing the face and the datewheel etc to get to that.

Okay, I gotta be honest - my company car is a nifty little Nissan Rogue, and I spend 95% of my time in that. But... On the weekends, when the weather is nice... I might just compliment my latest watch with one of these:

Hi Horo, This chart might help, it is from the Esslinger website, no copyright violation. It's just a general application chart. I'm not an expert on this, but (so) when I work on my own watches, I tend to go to the Miyota or ETA website and look for service info to include oiling points; and/or there are some great YouTube vids about servicing movements (I have several A7750s that I treat like ETA 7750s) where the publisher walks me through the oiling points and mentions what oil he is touching to the points as he goes along. Hope that helps.