bertieng

Thanks for all the good advices. Any idea on this 5513 dial so called "spider"? Is this a gen? Does it ever exist? A special version?

Then how about the dial feet? Those on teh gen. dial have differnt positions to that on the ETA. Do I have to cut them away and then how to put them back on the correct place? Using hot soldering or any other better methods? Thanks.

Thanks for the info. BTW, where do you get the hand set? Are they the original MBW as the current version of the second hand is all painted red. Also does it need to redrill and tap to fit in the gen. crown/tube?

Is this Milgauss a MBK based? It will take the classicwatchparts w/o mods? Thanks.

What is the correct Tropic & crown for Milgauss 6541? Any idea? Thanks.

As title. Any mod is needed to get into the MBK inner case? Thanks.

So the gen. 116509 also has this high profile case? Thanks.

In this case, should the 116509 have a thicker profile case vs the 116520? I am actually having the 116509 rep. Or is it just the endlink lugs area be thicker but still the middle part of the case be low profile for the 116509? Cheers.

Any idea if the old version low profile case Daytona still available somewhere else? Thanks.

I think the chance is zero. Wait for the rep makers to come up with something like what they did for the HBB. Trust it won't be too long.

Is it just a cosmetic mod, or it is a functional HE-valve? Looks awesome anyway.

The all black dial looks absolutely stupid. I think the factory has just simply installed the dial upside down. If you rotate the dial 360 deg. then everything is back in place with the lever on the left, and all the subdial positions are OK.

I will say it is difficult to tell from the clip that there are outlines on the hours indices, but from all the researches I have done I am sure the 6538 dial does have them. I doubt it will be possible and honestly not easy to offer a few of this 6538 to the community considering the time needed to source the parts, and the cost...... It took me more than three months to complete this project. As explained all parts have to be gen. once you chose to start with the NDT case. Your Nato project looks fabulous, never realized the colour combination involved until you highlighted it. Personally very much interested if you can have it weaved and available to the community.

To make things clear - the true 6538 has 8mm crown/gilt hands with white big bubble second/Submariner printing in 2 or 4 lines depends on the date of production/T17 or T19 superdome/insert with red triangle and 12 -15 markers printing. So my Bond 6538 is a kind of mix. I put more emphasis on the insert with round fonts and no 12 -15 markers, and 2 lines Sub printing. I also possess the red triangle insert and gilt small bubble second, but I have decided to go for the set up I have done.

Buying reps is always a kind of luck. With such price hikes, it really demands for better quality. Often scratched hands/dial/chipped screws are seen. It is time the factoey should look into these issues when they are asking for such amount of money for a rep. Still, at this price, it really demands for a better engraving/etching of the caseback.

Do not touch the crystal at all! It will be extrememly hard to polish the brushed plastic back to the original shinny texture. I suspect why you have a floating retention ring is that its inner dimension is too small to fit tightly onto the bottom of the 127 - provided your 127 is a gen. piece. This often happens to the MBW when you put on a gen - don't force it or you will end up cracking your crystal or bent the ring. Tropic. All you have to do is to trim down the inner rim of the retention ring till it is about 10 micron smaller than the Tropic's outer base diameter, then press fit it using the kit designed for the Rolex press - those low cost nylon presses will not work. You have to keep measuring while doing the trimming otherwise you will end up ginding too much away and it will leave you a loose fitting rentation ring - that's what happened to one of my MBW.

Thanks for all the compliments. Never expected my post will attract so many feedbacks. Building the 6538 takes lots of research and patience, and even more.......finance. Reasons for going for the Bond 6538 are two: 1) Deep inspiration of the film clip 2) A vinatge that needs minimal mods and yet not as popular as the 5513, 1680 etc, and the 8mm crown is something so rarely seen in other Subs And that's how the whole story begins................ By going through many documentations, it is quite tedious to come to know there can be quite a number of variations for the 6538, and since the one shown in the Bond movie was so sexy, so I took it as the reference for my project. The first obstacle is the watch base/bezel/insert. NDT seems to be almost the only one offering the correct case spec, and that's the starting point. Once you go for their case, be prepared you have to build the watch with gen. parts coz that's what it will only accept. Movement got to be the cal.1030 with slow beat w/o hacking. Fitting in the movement was where the nightmare begins. Bear in mind the NDT case is a true 1:1 dimension ie. the inner diameter is exactly the size of the movement, the fit is simply too tight giving no room for the movement to move freely when it sits into it. This is no good since you do need to slide the movement around for proper positioning to install the crown/stem. So machine work was needed to enlarge the inner case so slightly to let the movement to slide freely once fitted but not to the extent of wobbling around. Never use the dremel coz you will not be ablt to make micro controls on the grinding. Once this is done, the rest is straight forward. It just takes patience to source and collect all the gen. parts to put the watch into place. It is both true that T17 and T19 can be used in the 6538, it all depends on the year of production. I opt for the T19 superdome. When it comes to the hands, after making all the research, a big bubble second white in colour is the more correct choice. Bezel insert with round fonts w/o the 12-15 markers reference from the Bond watch. I decided to go for the 20mm Nato i/o 18mm since it gives a more balance appearance. Here is a comparison of the T19 superdome on the Sub vs T29 superdome on the SD so you can see the difference. Sub - T19 SD - T39 Still there is a minor flaw on the watch needs to be rectified, can you spot it? Then I will say it is almost 99% accurate.

Have been dreaming for ages for the James Bond Sub. Deeply inspired by this clip So made up my mind and determined to go for it. Now my dream comes true. Spec: Cal.1030/T19 Superdome/8mm Brevet crown/Gilt h.m. hands/White big bubble second hand/James Bone bezel insert + dial/Nato strap What more improvement is needed......................? Perhaps a 7206 bracelet?

Is the Ofrei pearl the vintage version for the 5513 etc?

Can you give me the link as I can locate it in oferi's site. Thanks.

Anyone got the idea if the h.m.s. hands for cal.1030 and cal.1675 share the same pinion hole size and the same hand lengths? Rollie experts please help to give some advices. Thanks.

Thanks for all the quick replies and advices. So it looks like the T19 superdome I got is gen. and correct. Now I can sleep in peace.

Any folks has the photo of the true superdome T19 available for comparison? I just got one and the seller claimed it is 100% genuine. The question is the crytsal is round/domed on the rim prolongs to the top which then forms a rather flat surface. Wonder if this is then a superdome? Or should the the top surface also be round and dome shaped? Please see picture of the crystal I got for what I mean.

I think both cases are exactly the same, it is just a matter of photographing angles. The only difference is the heart, Asian 7750 and ETA7753. If you are willing to pay 2.5x more, then go for the ETA version.

So only the insode is needed to be trimmed? How about the outside?