bertieng

Is it correct to put on V's CG for the PAM Northpole/Arkos? The PAM experts please comment. Thanks.

Have you tried to test what is the power reserve?

It is a no Seagull Tourby. It is a Liaoning Tourby. Supposed to be working fine too.

Don't expect anything decent on the street. All the super reps are available by mail only. These people rarely accept any face to face deals for customs/police risk reasons.

It is Safari 26020ST except in SS bracelet i/o leather band. 25721ST.OO.1000ST.07 is the white dial with silver subs and greenish markers in SS band.

I am pretty sure soon or later the MBW sec@12 will come out. Since the most difficult part - modded A7750 sec@12 is now available, the rest is simple, only if MBW will decide to pull the plug to go for the sandwich case construction like the Chinese version. I am waiting with great eager for this day to come.

Here is the gen. picture of the white dial. Everything is almost perfect --- even the greenish colour of the markers are dead on. Silver date window is no longer an issue as you can see. But no one so far has ever mentioned the fonts on the subdial, particularly the 6 o'clock subdial is not correct. Thickness of the inner bezel and the oversized date mag are beyond the limits of any mods, only the maker can address to these flaws, then we will have the 99% perfect APROO. At this moment I will say only the Safari version is closest to the gen.(6 o'clock subdial fonts are correct) if the obvious flaws are not taken into account.

Made many searches, but still can't get a firm idea if the bezel on the 6541 is supposed to rotate or fixed. All Rolex experts please chim in. Thanks.

How the feel of the bracelet? Is it as silky smooth as the MBW. We all know the bracelet plays a big part on the APROO. Thanks.

Intend to get the big sapphire AR, how to remove it out of the case? Will just simple thumb push will do the job. A bit worry it will crack from the push considering the size of it is rather big. Anyone got the experience and advice? Thanks.

Thanks. So what should be the correct endlinks for 6541 and 6538? Any idea?

Seen both types of endlinks exist on the 20mm rivet bands, what is their difference? Can they both fit onto the vintage Rolex say Milgauss 6541 or 6536? Experts please chim in. Thanks.

If you have been tracing very carefully on this seller in the past, he actually had 4-5 7836 bracelets for sale in brand new conditions, which have been proved fake, no doubt. I trust ome members here actually pull the trigger, and got the bracelet. This time the quality of the 7206 has been further improved, it is not easy for any causal Rolex buyers to spot it as fake. The facts are: 1. Condition of the bracelet is simply far too good for any real 7206 on the market considering the vintage of this model. Not even Rolex will have any NOS available. 2. Look at the stamping of "58" on the endlinks. 3. Look at the shape of the rivert pins - flat vs round in gen. 4. The date stamping on the clasp. 5. The biggest giveaway is the cornet stamping on the clasp. I think they use the same stamping mold as for the 7836. Still, I must say this is a master piece of fake. They really take the pain in copying the folding links as almost same as those in the gen. And they have learned the lesson of not making the back of the folding links recessed as they did in the 7836. So, they really are listening to the customers to upgrade their products. Yes, if the price is not ridiculous, it is no harm to get one for our vintage Rollies. But still not too sure about the feel of the band as often fakes are always full of sharp edges and extremely tight links - the silky flow feeling of a gen. bracelet never exist. Then, I may be just comparing diamond with glass.

Take a look at the finish and how they imitate the folding links. It is completely new design over the previous rivet bands. http://cgi.ebay.com/ROLEX-7206-RIVETED-BRA...1QQcmdZViewItem

Thanks for all the advices. As the T16 is so tough to find, shall there be any other alternatives that can also fit eg. T19 etc.? Thanks.

Just want to steal some comments from the Rollie experts here on the 6541 - is T16 crystal and crown 24-600 correct for the Milgaus 6541? Thanks.

Thanks for the advice. I have no idea as I have not pop off the bezel to see. But I just got the MBW Sub last week. Presume is it is using similar to the gen. mechanism!?

Found the natural MBW Sub bezel clicking mechanism is very loose and doesn't give a solid and sure sound/feel when turning the ring. Can this be fixed to give the gen. feel? I am not too sure about the construction of mechanism used for the MBW bezel - it is a spring wire or same as that used in the TW Best with the bezel teeth holding by a spring loaded protruding button? Rollie experts please help. Thanks.

The engineering involved in making the Graham CFO is just simply astonsihing. The whole watch is just so beautifully made. No stripping screw heads in and out, perfect hand alignment, silver polish on the metal works, top notch dust free standards inside the case ........ Good to see this factory has put so much thoughts and efforts into making the Grahams as compaed to the fast deteriorating quality standard from the PAMs. The golden days for the PAMs are gone long ago, sadly to see hardly a good PAM is made in the past 18 months depite all those claimed to be "ultimate", "upgraded" .......... asking for high prices are simply inferior craps when you put it next to the G. In my opinion, not even the HBB reaches such quality which has been well regarded as a Super Rep. I actually opened up a so called ultimate Arktos, and guess what I saw, the underside of the caseback was covered with lumps of dust! Wholeheartedly wish this G factory will continue to invest and develop more good value for money watches for us in the days to come. But be awared the Swordfish comes from a different maker of the CFO.

Thanks for all the advices. Just for ref, which crystal is correct for the Sub? I saw 295C1 and 295C2. What's the difference between the two? Thanks again.

As per subject, Rolex experts please chim in. Thanks.

Excellent review, Pix. I am so tempted to get one now. BTW, how is the craftmanship of the Tourbillon? Are they all shinny polished and well oiled? Rough surfaces on the parts will just simply ruin the whole watch.

Do they have a low profile 116509?

What is the source of this Exp I. Don't seem to see it has been mentioned in the review. It is MBW?