bertieng

Amazing price considering a Nickel Plated Swiss ETA2892A2 is used.

Am I still correct that the size and position of the subdials on the rep is differnt from the original?

I think it should be the 2893-2 for the GMT, not the 2892A2 we are talking about.

I got the information that there are actually Chinese replica ETA2892-2 movements in our watches. The look of these rep. movts look exactly the same even with the ETA engravings on the movt as well. This news is new to me. Anyone got some idea on this issue as I always thought when our dealers said it is ETA2892-2 then it is meant to be Swiss. If it is true that they are really reps., then with all the good money we paid.......just for a Chinese rep. ETA????

I am also looking hard for the gen. crown for months but without no success.

Intending to change my FM Conq. ETA2892-2 with a gen. dial. Any members have the experience if a direct swapping is workable? Are the positions of the legs on the gen. dial same as those on the rep. to fit onto the movt? And the date window is at the same position too? Also looking for the gen. crown but is extremely hard to find. Then will it fit onto the exisiting case tube? Thanks.

How about applying the glue on the underside of the dial where the tube protrudes? Will this work better? I think my shaky hand will not help me just to get a very small amout of glue onto the underside of the hand.

The 6 o'clock subdial hand on my DW 6265 fell off after a hit today. Maybe caused from improper fixing when I transferred the dial onto the vj23 movt. Can any experience members inform what is the correct way of fixing this hand on the dial without getting all the glue smeared onto the dial face? Thanks.

Thanks. But as you know the indents are not very deep, the turps can easily eat up the paint on the engravings as well. Also, paint for models is supposed for binding on plastic substrates, for metal surfaces they may not form strong bondings.

Anyone tried to repainted the engravings on PAM's steel bezel? Some of the black paint on mine fell off, how to redo the painting, and what kind of paint should be used? Thanks.

Thanks Vladimir. Am I correct from viewing the pics that there are differences between the subdials' size and positions? BTW, should the gen. pushers have polished or brushed finish? It is hard to tell from the pics. Thanks.

Thinking of getting the 212, but then a bit confused here with the colour of the subdial hands. Some dealers here claimed that they have the correct black hands, but if you go the Panerai's official site, you will see the small hands are silver. So what is the true colour on a gen? Then the other concern is the crystal. It seems that so far no dealers can supply the true sapphire. Is it really that dificult to make a domed sapphire?

I will never reommend to buy reps at any shops in China. You simply will not get anything decent on the streets. And you will just end up being cheated with crap reps there.

I see your point, that why I put on a gen. 78350/19 bracelet to match the DW. The only thing is that I don't have the 571 end links but the 57B instead. It still works nicely they snap into the lug holes straight away with no difficulties. BTW, I used the gen. Rolex 19mm springbars as well. Yeah, I know an almost perfect 6265PN is quite impossible to find on the market, but I just love this piece so much, I will say this is my most beloved rep. amongst all the others I owed nowadays. And the investment is not that big as compared with the PAM's having all that crown, AR, lume, cyclops, cannon pin, dtaewheeel etc. mods. involved. It is an never ending story.

Thanks guys for your comments. I think I am now much more comfortable in continuing wearing my beloved 6265 if the weight is of no issue. Looks like that guy was just trying to put me on trap for my lack of knowledge of a gen. vintage Daytona. Yes, it looks very new, but so what, it could have been touched up by Rolex just like my 78350 bracelet repolished completely like new by the Rolex service centre. It only cost me $20 to do it.

He got a SS YM on his wrist. So, DW's case should be using 316SS as well? If yes, then the weight of DW's case should be the same as the gen. case? Then this guy may just know nothing about vintage models. BTW, you mentioned 904L being used in the modern models, does it mean the current reps are lighter than the gens eg. SS sub?

As I am so impressed and confident with my DW 6265 PN which has the gen. T21, crown + tube, 78350/19 bracelet and a gen. working vj23 movement, so I decided to wear it for my U reunion party to give it a test. During the gathering one of my old colleague came up and said " wow, it is a very nice vintage Daytona, it must worth quite something". I was so amazed and nearly acended to the seven sky. Then next he asked if he can have a look of my PN, as I was so confident with the DW spec and with all the gen. parts installed, I gladly passed it over, and the nightmare started. He commented "it really is a very nice piece, an almost perfect rep". This last statement immediately brought me back from heaven all the way down to hell. I gave him a questioning stare, he realized and said, " the real Daytona should weight much heavier, yours is really a good piece of art, if it is not the weight, it is very hard to tell if it is not gen". I excused myself for the washroom, and slipped out of the side door and drove home at 180kmh immediately. So, my question now is whether this guy's judgement was correct? The real 6265 is much heavier than DW's? If this is really the case, my next project is to look for a goldsmith to mill out the case based on the exact spec of DW's case using the 316 SS.

Isn't Brasso for copper surface? Will it eat up the plastic too much?

Overlooked the topic. Found already answers from another thread. Hope this will bring my T21 back to life. Thanks.

Anyone has good experience in polishing out the scratches on acrylic crystals? What is the best product to use? Recommendations most welcome.

Does it fit the Navitimer? How about the datewheel position? Does the fonts show correctly on the date window?

Thanks Ubi, The key here is the thread pitch. 3.0mm tap can have different pitch also. So it should be a 3.0mm tap x 0.25 mm thread pitch, right? I think DW's tube hole has a 0.3-0.35mm pitch. If I run the 0.25mm pitch tap over it, it can create the new thread pitch to fit the Cousin's tube pitch?

Hi avitt, Did you run a 0.25mm thread pitch tapper through the DW case for installing the Cousins' tube? I am going to buy the tapper tomorrow, please help and advise what size of tapper you used? Thanks.

Thank you very much for your times, you guysa re so knowledgable and helpful. I will start looking for the tapper to make the new threads on the case. Still a bit uneasy about the countersink. How much metal I have to take away from the tube hole entrance? Just a few turns of the drill bit will do the job? Thanks.

Thanks again. Sorry for my poor understanding. What does it mean by countersinking the hole? You mentioned using a 3/16" drill bit, but I have no clue how the process is. Very very sorry for my ignorance. Please help.