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Showing results for tags 'Asian'.
Found 5 results
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Good day. I just recently got a rep Tank Anglaise with A2688 movement and compared to the A7750 movement, it is just confusing me a lot. Perhaps someone can help me with some of my inquiries: 1) how to wind it by hand? on most of the watches I own, they are wound clock-wise. but for the A2688, it feels quite off when winding it that way. it sounds like it is winding properly if I do it counter-clockwise 2) on setting up the date - when the crown is pulled on the next position, winding it counter-clockwise moves the date forward. moving it clockwise just shake the date. Am I correct in assuming that the date only moves in one direction? In other watches with day and date, one direction normally moves the day while the other direction moves the date. Thanks in advance.
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Hi all, To start off, im not quite sure if this post belongs in this subforum...please bear with me, I know this topic has been chewed through quite thoroughly, but it always feels better and is more of a relief when one's own question is answered directly. I have a A7750 chrono (standard; secs @ 9) for around 2 months now, don't wear it all day/everyday. Whilst on a day i dont wear it, and the time is still running, i tend to hand wind it 10-20 rounds at night, just to keep it going and not have to worry about when i can set the date/time if it stops, you know, the whole 9 yards. When i Notice that it has stopped, i hand-wind it approx. 50 rounds (never feel any resistance). I wouldnt say that i wind it aggressively, but not quite slow either. On days i wear the watch, which is 2-3 times a week, i do not wind, since i rely on the rotor to do its job. Now i have read a few articles/posts, saying that fast and aggrssive winding can cause "teeth" of a certain wheel inside the movement to grind down, or even break off. Source: http://www.rwg.bz/board/index.php?showtopic=1613 So, what do the movement experts say? 2 months of the aforementioned use- have I already damaged the movement? If so, how do i notice it, without having to open the caseback (since i dont have the necessary tools for that )? And what is the runtime of a fully wound 7750? Feel free to call me paranoid- at least then i know that all is well Much appreciation for any comments/help/ideas!
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Hey Guys- I am looking at two Rolex 16610 models on perfect clones and wondering what I can expect for the difference in these two movements. The first is a Sub Asian 2824 / 3135 and the specs are as follows... - nickle plated asian clone 2824 modified to rolex calibre 3135 markings and bridges The second is a Sub Asian 2813 28800 and the specs are as follows... - ew breed asian 2813, 28800 high beat, ew breed with 25J, rolex style perforated rotor As a novice I honestly have no clue how big or important the difference is between these movements. I understand that it will make the watch more accurate with a smoother movement but to what degree? Will it be noticable to others that my watch is a rep if I go with the cheaper of the two movements or does it not make that large of a difference? Any thoughts or info on this whole area would be greatly appreciated! -
I bought a Transocean Chrono with a quartz movement a few months back. Basically I want to know if I could swap out the quartz movement for an A7750. Possible or not?
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Hi all, After getting my 42mm cheapie pumpkin I've fallen in love with it and decided to get a decent version of it's 45mm bigger brother. Having a look around I see that there seem to be two versions. One version has small square lume markers at 12/3/6/9, "Seamaster" is in red (orange) writing and the hour and minute hands are fatter (and uglier). The other version has semi-triangular lume markers at 12/3/6/8, "Seamaster" is in white, and the hour and minute hands are slimmer and better proportioned. So I had a look at pictures of gens and they match the second one (semi-triangular markers). But the first one (seems to be the ceramic version) seems to be the "latest" model? Are they both correct and copying slightly different versions of gen Omega POs? I must say that the fat, ugly hands just scream "cheap" to me, as do the "not quite right" square markers, so either way I'm going with the second version Puretime has it for $238 with an Asian 2824, or $388 with a Selita SW200. Andrew has it for $318 with an ETA 2824-2, everything else seems to be identical. Does the Selita movement come assembled in a proper factory? I.e. it will not need sending off for servicing immediately? I know the chances of the ETA being NOS and being nice and clean and lubed will be slim, so I'm tempted to go for the Selita SW200. Any advice or feedback on the Selita movement appreciated!
